2012 ktm 500 exc?

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by Visigothic, Apr 27, 2011.

  1. E-Ticket2

    E-Ticket2 E-Ticket

    Joined:
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    Forget revalving for now ....

    Have you guys re-sprung your bikes for your weight?
    You need to be using the correct spring rates -- BEFORE -- you do anything else.

    Best of luck! E-Ticket
  2. YAHBO

    YAHBO Grip and rip since 1983

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    I have been running Vibranators on my last three high use bikes and they really work.

    Tuned mass dampers to combat "tonic Vibration reflex".

    www.Vibranator.com







  3. Dirty in all

    Dirty in all Adrenaline Junkie

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    I ran across this video and it seems to explain the opposite of what I thought would be help for handling but it says to lower the forks in the tree and lower the shock height to improve the bikes turning and handling. The website is very 500 specific, just passing it along. Last season I had a few flops too where the front end just washes on me both in corners and coming out of the bottom of a large depressions. Havent tried the site suggestions or the mod yet as Im still in winter supermoto trim but I was going to give it a try I think soon. I know I need to get the proper springs but Im really new at setting up for dirt, does anyone have a suggestion for a 240lb rider (no gear) with rear springs? Seems like the springs never get up to my size and I feel like getting one closer to my weight could be better but Im also thinking I want the exact one?

    <iframe width="560" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/_Z5xrdXEXDg" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

    MAYBE THE WORLDS BEST HANDLING FIX: http://bestdualsportbikes.com/dual-sport-bikes/2012-2013-ktm-500-exc
  4. justlookin

    justlookin Been here awhile

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    Since the topic has turned to springing these beasts, any recommended spring charts. How about Progressive springs? I rode a buddys Honda that Mr Wilkey set up several years ago and was very impressed. He used straight wound springs on that one. Anyway I see he is promoting Progressives on the PDS Ktm's and I just don't know, had a Kaw setup several years ago with Progressives and didn't like it - don't remember who did the valving and I bought the bike setup although original owner and I were same size. So how about some spring details for a new to PDS rider. Thanks
  5. Enduro Outlaw

    Enduro Outlaw Adventurer

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    Thanks for taking the time to hear my rant guys. The springs should be okish.. I'm 190 all geared up.. with water so my ride sage is 110-115 with the forks 23mm up in the clamps. I'm gonna have to save some money and take the suspension and have it cut down and setup. It's so agrivating when you can't push the bike to your full ability and everytime you get off balance not being able to put a foot down so your only option is to get your leg out of the way and drop the bike. OOOPS we're leaning down hill again.. time to jump off and drop the bike.. and repeat :roflI'm gonna need knee sugury if this keeps up.

    One thing at a time.. I'm just trying to get some of this wash out under control. I have a flat area I can do 8's. I'll put the bike back in giraffe mode and start over.

    I guess I could try a fater front tire.. 90/90-21 S-12.. I hear great things about them.. I know this will not fix the issue but hell.. I'd settle for a bandage right now.
  6. Dirty in all

    Dirty in all Adrenaline Junkie

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    The progressive from what I understand should be your only choice for the PDS system because it contains no linkage that in essence does the progression on linked bikes.
  7. Enduro Outlaw

    Enduro Outlaw Adventurer

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    Ya know what I think my problem is? I ride the exc like an MX bike when it is not an MX bike. I'm expecting to much from it. I have grown up on non pds shock MX bikes so the frame and suspension are totaly different. I'm going to set the bike back to stock setting including fork/clamp placement and set the compresion and rebound settings to comfort settings per manual, get a low seat form seat concepts and put some different tires on it for now and just deal with bailing off the bike until I can afford a $G on suspension work.

    Going to try a 90/90-21 S-12 for the front and a 110/100-18 xcms "Trying something new" for the rear and see what happens. I want to try something other than a fat truck tire in the rear to see how the bike will handle on tight soft to rocky trails.

    Thank you guys for the help!
  8. SteveO

    SteveO Long timer

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    I ditched the stock rear spring for a Progressive Race Tech. Now that I have the progressive, the Sag can be set correctly for my fat but. Plus, when i load up the bike with gear for camping, I have confidence the progressive spring can handle the weight.... Very happy with this setup. :D
  9. FZcruzer

    FZcruzer Been here awhile

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    SteveO,
    Did you re-valve also or just a spring change? What is your weight with your gear on if ya don't mind telling.

    Rob,
  10. SteveO

    SteveO Long timer

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    Yeah, I had a guy here in ABQ revalve the rear shock as well. I reason I "had" to do the whole project was because of KTM's POS plastic retaining ring. I screwed up my ring while adjusting the shock pre-load. So, I took it in to have it all done. In order to replace the plastic locking ring, the shock has to come apart. So, while it's apart, why not revalve it too. I can't recall what the valving was, but I know the bladder was changed to Race-Tech grade, instead of the plastic badder that is provided by KTM.

    With gear I was weighing in around 220lbs. I'm trying to knock off a few pounds so that I can bring the sag down and lower the bike.....but, as with age, everything seems to get harder to do....
  11. YAHBO

    YAHBO Grip and rip since 1983

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    Email sent.
  12. Bengt Phorks

    Bengt Phorks Been here awhile

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    Maybe you went the wrong way by raising the fork tubes. It decreases the rake and trail which makes the front want to slide out. Think about mountain biking in the sand, its very hard to keep the bike going in a straight line without the front washing out. By lowering the fork tubes you increase the rake and trail which makes the bike more stable and stops the front end from skittering around and breaking traction.
    Here is my setup. I weigh 250+ with gear. The fork tubes raised 8 mm in the triple clamps and I am using the the stock springs (4.2)
    I have a 8.4 spring on the rear with 4.5 inches of sag and the rebound setting is 2 clicks harder than the comfort setting. When the bike was new the 7.6 spring felt too stiff and as it broke in I went to a 8.0 then to the 8.4. I took about 50 hours before the suspension settled in.
    Tire selection goes from the Metzler Enduro Extreme to Dunlop 606's. Right now I am running a Pirelli Scorpion on the front. All the knobs on the edges have broke off but it doesn't seem to make any difference.

    The bike is so stable I can darn near drag the handlebar in a corner while waving at the girls.
  13. Bengt Phorks

    Bengt Phorks Been here awhile

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    On my shock the retainer unscrews right off the end of the shock without any problem. (2012 500 EXC)
    Release preload ,remove spring, unscrew retaining ring.
  14. Bungholio

    Bungholio Long timer

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    I agree with E-Ticket.
    I am about 185 naked and 6 foot. I don't have the 500, but do have the 530 and I had the bike re-sprung for my weight to Race Tech specs and it made a big improvement in control and ride quality. Straight rate springs in front, no changes to the valving-I told the tech that I felt the valving was fine-new seals and oil along with a good cleaning since it was the first time since new that they have been taken apart. He also installed a progressive spring for the shock and the bladder kit in the reservoir and telescopic needle. No valving changes there either. Pretty happy with the results :clap
  15. SteveO

    SteveO Long timer

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    2012 500EXC, not on mine. To replace the plastic screw, the whole shock had to come apart.... I even had the shock guy confirm this stupid issue. yes, the steel ring will come off, but not the plastic set screw....
  16. Enduro Outlaw

    Enduro Outlaw Adventurer

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    Your right.. I left everything the same except reset the compresion and rebound back to the "Standerd" possitions per manual and went for some laps. It turns better so I'm going to try to drop the forks back down in the clamps and try again. Handling is more important to me than being able to tip toe..haha

    Just gonna have to revert to the old off balence bailout method from now on.. good thing I have radiator braces and good bark busters.
  17. Colemanfu

    Colemanfu King of all manfu

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    On my old LC4 I had a switch that would turn the head light on and off, loved it - I wanted to do the same with my 500. 2 reasons so save my bulb, I'm on my 3rd and to be more stealth ha. Total cost = $4.00 for the switch, had the scrap aluminum hanging around.

    I made a little box to hold a simple push/pull on/off switch.
    [​IMG]
    We know the stock dash is very tight. I tucked it on the brace for the stalk for the left turn. The lip goes under the stalk and I'll use 2 mini nuts/bolts to hold it in place.

    [​IMG]
    Here is a pix with the mask forward a bit. You can see how it wraps under the turn brace to give support when I pull the switch.

    [​IMG]
    My question to the electrical experts is... what wire should I tap into? The brown on the side or the green or blue on the bottom of the light?
  18. 2on2off

    2on2off Head'n somewhere new

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    Location:
    Central California
    I have the following map installed on my 2012 500EXC with the FMF Factory 4.1 RCT muffler installed, desmogged, and it works great:
    # KM787 EU12C 0601

    On my 2013 KTM 500EXC, desmogged, with stock muffler and the end screen removed bike, I just installed the following MAP:
    #KM787 EU12C 0701

    I will be testing this map on the 2013 500EXC this weekend on a 3 day ride in Nevada with elevations ranging from 4,000 - 9,000 ft. and temps ranging from 19-70 degrees. This is the map that was recommended to me to cure the intermittent "flame out" I was experiencing.
  19. 2on2off

    2on2off Head'n somewhere new

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    Central California
    I have not used the fuel tanks listed above but was waiting last year for the Safari 4.0 gallon fuel tank to be released. It was taking so long I finally decided to buy the Acerbis 5.3 and am I glad I made that decision.

    I have exclusively used 4.0 gallon fuel tanks in the past on a DRZ400S and Honda XR650L. I liked them but like the fuel range of the 5.3 so much better and do not feel it is too wide for my 500EXC.

    It is wider than the stock tank but that doesn't bother me the way I ride. Here is a few pictures:

    [​IMG]

    It clears my KTM Radiator guards and is easy to install with no modifications:
  20. Ronin ADV

    Ronin ADV Gear addict

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    Apr 19, 2010
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    616
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    Northern Sierras
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

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    I had it made like my other Renazco seats, narrower on the front for control then wider in the back so I can slide back some for more comfort when I'm just cruising.
    This is the third seat they have made for me and I consider this an essential mod on any of my bikes.
    Its worth every penny.