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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by Visigothic, Apr 27, 2011.
I hope they will be available relatively soon.
I am going to add the BRP mounts as well, I have cut the ends of the HDB guards and am waiting for the mailman.
I still need to sort out the clutch, it's rotated as far as it will go, but the lever is still in a bad spot.
Next week I will take the clutch line apart and see what I can make to move the line away from the bars
In the spare connectors parts list AP and BH are the ignition lock plug and socket connectors.
This is a problem others have had with HDB hand guards. I have not found a good solution and am presently just watching my clutch line for wear.if anyone finds a solution pleas post it.
Just put a deposit on my dealers last 500 EXC. I want to install heated grips (Symtec). Where's the best place to pick up 12V positive (switched)? And where is a good place to mount the low/off/high switch?
I don't know about this...I just saw a 2014 "Enduro" video, and the Six Day's 250 (2-stroke), and at least one of the 4 stroke models look like they went back to black wheels. I do not know if they are Giant brand, or Excel's, though.
See 1:15, 1:29, 1:53, 2:07, 2:22, and the very end of this clip:
My problem is not with the line hitting the HDB guards, anymore! It is now interfering with the Flexx Bars i installed.
The big chunk of fittings on the clutch line interfere with the bars.
Today i pulled the clutch line out and had a look. The line is a two piece affair, the actual line is threaded into a steel adapter that is threaded into the clutch cylinder. I took all of this apart and checked threads etc.
Both the clutch line end fitting and the steel adapter fitting are M10x1.0 pitch. It seems the stainless braided hose has an aluminum end fitting that seats in the bottom of the tapped hole on the steel adapter.
The hose is secured into the drilled and tapped end of the clutch housing with a nut, like an automotive style brake line. The aluminum end is meant to deform slightly when the nut is tightened to create a seal.
I checked the Brembo housing and it is the same set up. I know there is a copper washer to seal the adapter but I figured why not? so i installed the hose end into the housing and eliminated the steel adapter. It all works and it clears the handle bars.
Awesome right! well nothing is ever this simple, for me, anyway. The line is now a bit too short, mainly because i have tall risers installed.
The other issue that i see is there is now an aluminum on aluminum seal. This may never be a problem but, i think there is a reason for the steel adapter, mainly to insure a proper seal and minimize the reaction between the untreated aluminum surfaces.
I am going to machine a custom adapter to install into the clutch housing and it will be angled to allow the clutch line to clear the bars and the top clamps etc.
Wish me luck! if it works i will post some pictures,
You made a good choice.
Start reading from post #3931, and study the wiring diagrams. You can take power from the ignition key switch plug GT/6.
Great description. Can you post some pics of how the line routes with your modification completed?
Would it be easy to machine a couple adapters?
We all wish you luck!!! I do not have a problem with the lines, but I am always eager to learn more about all the mechanics in our bikes, and I'm sure that you will succeed!!
Well, I tried! It almost worked! Long story short, the adapter slipped in the vice during the last operation and became scrap metal.
I have decided to order a line from Galfer or one of the other manufacturers. My set up is quite crowded, and with the Flexx bars there is just not that much room.
I have a couple of pics on my phone I will try to post later.
Basically I will be buying a line with 90 degree banjo ends, overall around 40" long. The fitting into the master is a standard M10 x 1.0 thread as is the clutch cylinder.
The 90 degree bend will allow the clutch line to drop down away from the bars and top clamp.
More to come.
Hose fitting hits the Flexx Bar and stops rotation to a useable position
Here i have removed the intermediate fitting, looked great for clearance but the line is too short when turned to the right for my liking.
So, it looks like i am going to order a Spiegler line, 90 degree at the clutch slave and 70 at the master cylinder.
This will definately move the line out of the way. I'll post pice when it is installed.
Thank you very much for the pics and information, and yes, please, keep us posted!
Are the 2012 to 2013 specs the same intake range 0.100.15mm, exhaust 0.120.17mm? I ask because I found my 2013 intakes a bit outside that spec at 8 hours.
I popped the cover thinking just to familiarize myself with things while it's still mostly clean and found a 0.10mm feeler very tight on the intakes. I replaced the 2.85 shims there with 2.80mm shims and now it seems right: 0.13mm is a snug fit, 0.15 won't fit.
BTW, valve adjustments are sure simple on these. Very nice.
That is about as close as you will get with KTM shim sizes. The next smaller would put it outside the range. I try for the large side of the range on my 530.
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I found 2 of the 4 to be tight at 6 hours when i checked. I am going to do another check on them, seems they will stay put once they are set.
I believe it has been posted that the shims from the V-Rod are the same diameter and they come in more thickness options and less money. Not sure as i have never personally checked.
Any DIY tutorials on the actual way to check valves on this machine?
I use a very simple four step method:
- call dealer
- drop off bike
- present credit card
- collect bike
I looked at this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AtAtnt374PU. If you've done this sort of work before, it's a no-brainer.
I found a source for the connectors the pencil is pointing at in the picture.
If you look around their website, they also have the connectors for the turn signals.