Separate names with a comma.
Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by Visigothic, Apr 27, 2011.
take the odo off & the mount under hot water first
Just removed the CS sprocket to grease the splines with Moly Pro 60. Can someone confirm that the torque value for the CS bolt is (73.8 lb ft)? Owners manual states (Nut, Primary gear, M20LHx1.5, 100Nm 73.8 lb ft).
Just want to make sure I'm reading this right. Primary gear = countershaft sprocket?
Well time had been progressing much too slowly for me, had a 500 and bones not knitting together meant no riding for the longest time.
Finally got on the bike for a 3 day ride to test some gear out. Sadly dirt is something I should still be staying away from for a bit, but at least the ride got me out and about testing some gear.
Only thing is after two days of nothing but pavement I was bored shitless. The motor is nice and smooth, even smoother with the vibes dampened with the Faast Flex bars.
However the lure of dirt made me throw caution to the wind and into the dirt I ducked for a quick spin. Had the tires pumped to 32 PSI for the pavement and once on the wet clay of northern Thailand proceeded to slip and slide everywhere. The bars would be turned for a corner and the bike would plow straight on into the bush. Welcome back to offroading I thought as I the bike careened off the track yet again. Bloody scary.
Found a place on the singletrack to call it a day and tuck in for the night. Had the forest floor looking like a frat house within 10 minutes of killing the motor.
The offroad was waaay too short as I need to get the bones properly healed before having too much fun but it sure was nice after an eight month layoff due to injuries to be on a dirt bike again.
CS torque is 60nm/44lb ft of torque. Primary gear is not the CS.
Thanks Capp. Glad I asked first.
I have an air compressor and for many years have simply used my impact driver to quickly spin off the Front Sprocket retainer bolt and washer. I change front sprockets often and especially on my 500. Make sure new sprocket and washer are properly aligned (yes you can screw this up) and hammer away until I hear the sound change. I have no clue what the actual torque is.
Not that I am going to change after 40 years but other than the obvious "over-torque induced metal failure" why is this a bad thing
Lots of Blue Loctite on the CS bolt. Check the spring washer and the bolt head, when it shows wear replace them both (cheap for once). This washer is what really holds the sprocket on and tensions the o-ring to keep it from leaking.
Yeah the shape of the washer is important, sooner or later most KTM engines will start leaking in the CS seal area.
Best bet is to replace the stock CS washer with the Dirt Tricks one, it's made from tooling steel and will keep its domed shape much longer. In a bind - e.g. somewhere on a trip or so - you can also re-dome the washer by putting it in a vice between two differently sized sockets.
Nice to see you back out in the jungle on the new bike! Just take it easy for a while so that the leg has a chance to heal before you abuse it again...
First off what a great site and resource, thanks to all that have posted! I have tried to digest all 284 pages but need a little help. I just purchased a 2013 exc 500. I have the following questions:
1. I want to do the desmog, so I can use the 3.5 KTM gas tank. Some of the post say to remap, some it would appear leave the stock mapping program. My dealer won't do a remap. Is it OK to desmog and us the stock mapping?
2. On re-gearing, most of the posts say to go with a 13 or 14 CS and 48 rear, will the stock chain work with the new setup?
Thanks for you help,
Gray headed old fart
It will benefit to an altered fuel map, it's very lean from the factory. Personally mine runs flawlessly with the Magic Mod, cheaper than piggyback programmers and one less possibly point of failure.
You CAN fit a 14/48 on stock chain. I did....and promptly burned through the mud flap as the tire is too far forward. Bike handles better with the rear wheel back as well so I'm much happier with a longer chain. I think 14/50 it too short, 14/48 is marginal and I may go 14/46 but depends on the individual.
Check the wiring behind the headlight. Mine wore through after 2 hours and caused problems. Ktm used put in about as bad a wiring harness/connectors as possible.
I tried the 14/48 gearing and while it works and you can use the OEM chain you will find the 50 tooth rear sprocket is the optimum setup especially if you are going to climb any steep grades or ride any slow technical single track. You don't need to buy a new chain. Just add 2 extra links to the OEM chain. You will need another master link.
Good info for him, guys. I did the Euro map along with desmog, runs absolutely great! Also, maybe depends on rider weight for gearing? I added a couple links as suggested & am running 15/51, wanted to keep chain up off slider as much as possible. Bike pulls the gearing with no problem, it's an animal on hillclimbs. In fact, here's a video of it going up a very steep, loose, long sand hill at Jawbone Canyon.: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YgkZsSUNzgI
Need some quick help on my Highway Dirt Biker setup! I am trying to mount the KTM computer protector to the top clamp. They sent both short and long screws to mount the protector to the clamp. It appears you would use the short screws to mount the protector on top of the clamp, and the longer screws to mount it under the edge. The problem is that the tapped holes that go all the way through the top clamp are not quite finished properly right at the bottom, so I can't get the long screw through to mount the protector underneath, which is where I want it. I just want to be 100% sure I am looking at this correctly. I don't have the right size metric tap, so I am going to have to go get one tomorrow, assuming I am on the right track here.
was wondering what anyone thought about the 500exc starter after seeing this?
not sure myself.
<object width="420" height="315"><param name="movie" value="//www.youtube.com/v/YwhAs-WaPMU?version=3&hl=en_US"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="//www.youtube.com/v/YwhAs-WaPMU?version=3&hl=en_US" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" width="420" height="315" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true"></embed></object>
More than likely it is the very end of the threaded hole giving you probs.Take one of the longer bolts and run it through from the top, this should clear the threads. The clearance is very tight mounting the odo from the bottom so make sure both pieces are lined up properly. This is easier to do before mounting the clamp to the bars.
Thanks - I already went back and thought about it and decided they left it a little rough at the bottom on purpose so the bolt would stay put when you put the nut on the bottom. I chased an old bolt through it first to make sure the threads didn't get too buggered up for the nut to go on easily and it was fine. So, after that, I have it put back together and now I have another little dilemma. I went with the high (2-1/2) lower clamp. The top of the number plate headlight hits the bare plastic parts at the bottom of the front two indicating lights. I can't attach the rubber bands without smashing the lights. I want to eventually add an LED headlight, and I know either Baja Designs or Advmonster has spacers (or maybe they both do) and I am wondering if I could just buy the spacer for now. Otherwise, I think I will have to punt and put the computer back in its original spot.
I ran a tap thru the holes you are talking about.
I used some long wire ties around the forks and thru the holes in the number plate where the rubber things should be when I had the stock headlight in there with the HDB stuff at first. I bought a Baja Designs LED headlight which included the spacers you are talking about. That worked out better. It is not a bad idea as the stock headlight sucks big time. That Baja Designs LED is awesome!
The 4stroke starters run all gears in the engine oil. This is only applickable to the 2smokers.
And the starters are mounted in the correct plane relative to the crank on the four strokes keeping them from having the same issues as the poorly designed KTM two stroke starters. Thankfully.