2012 ktm 500 exc?

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by Visigothic, Apr 27, 2011.

  1. bill1960

    bill1960 Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Oct 4, 2007
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    447
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    Cambodia
    At 775hrs ~30,000km the counter-shaft splines are still fine on my '13 500 xcw. Perhaps those clutch rubbers do make a difference.
    I did fit a Mox Cush Sprocket very recently (post #16140) but that was to reduce chain slap and smooth out the drive at low speed/rpm.
    timeOday likes this.
  2. nakedjordan

    nakedjordan Adventurer

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    May 24, 2013
    Oddometer:
    98
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    Vancouver BC Canada
    Sorry to bring this up again but I hadn't been on here for a bit. My question is does it cut full power to everything after the "10 seconds" or just the headlight? Like will my fan cut off? My thing is that I wan't to do this so when I'm riding single track and my fan comes on I can let it run with the bike off when I walk up to help on the next obstacle or whatever. I just want to let the fan run without the light on but I haven't had the time to run the light on a switch and this seems way easier.

    If I'm reading this correctly I will be able to turn the bike off but still have power for 10 seconds then I could turn it back to the run position and have fan power going without lights? Or does it have no power in the run position until you hit the start button?
  3. RideFreak

    RideFreak Torque Junkie

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    The fan gets power separately. Everything will shit off, lights ign etc. if the temp sensor is calling for the fan that will continue to run.
    davesupreme and nakedjordan like this.
  4. Vincenthdfan

    Vincenthdfan Long timer

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    Freudian Slip?? :ricky
  5. RideFreak

    RideFreak Torque Junkie

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    Ha, that's funny. I definitely hope not.
    typeamark and Vincenthdfan like this.
  6. oldfuddy

    oldfuddy Long timer

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    First race of season tomorrow. Up in the Sheridan Mountains outside Prescott AZ. 60 rows of 4 bikes each row... I'm in row 56. All good.

    IMG_0727.JPG




    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Dan950ser, Stu, Tortuga353 and 4 others like this.
  7. AussieEvo

    AussieEvo Adventurer

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    Feb 8, 2017
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    16
    Nice work 2bold, thanks mate!!
  8. Duzitall

    Duzitall old dude

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    Best of luck!
  9. CanadianX

    CanadianX Oh!? That is deep.

    Joined:
    Dec 26, 2010
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    3,456
    Location:
    New Brunswick
    I'm thinking ahead to a bit of an overhaul this winter and wondering what I should do to the 500. Thinking refresh and preventative maintenance. I'm closing in on 300 hrs with nothing but valve checks and oil and filter changes for the most part. The motors runs true, burns no oil and it shifts as it always has. Clutch is still the original, no problems with it. Bike is stock with a slight tweak to the TPS volts, canister removed and exhaust stock with screens and all.

    My list:
    Fluids (brake, coolant etc.) Any value in flushing the clutch hydraulic fluid?
    Clutch dampers
    Service suspension
    Service Swing arm pivots
    Rear brake pivot rebuild
    True and balance the wheels
    New chain and sprockets.
    New in tank fuel filter
    Detailed cleaning

    What else?

    Maybe time to have the damper serviced? I was also thinking plastics and decals as mine are pretty beat but that the nature of riding it.
    Bitingdog likes this.
  10. Vincenthdfan

    Vincenthdfan Long timer

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    Wow, that is awesome service you've gotten out of that bike, very encouraging!
  11. Grinder

    Grinder Wrong way 'round

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    In DC traffic...
    I think that's a pretty complete list but add steering head bearing service, lever pivot clean and grease. Once you start into it, you may notice other things like wiring or other little items that need attention.
  12. DesertRatliff

    DesertRatliff Tinker Tinker Ride Ride

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    Feb 12, 2007
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    Wheel bearings in good shape?
    +1 on head bearings.

    Otherwise, your list looks a lot like mine for the winter (clutch dampers and suspension anyway) and reminds me I should probably check my TPS setting.
  13. CanadianX

    CanadianX Oh!? That is deep.

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    Ah, yes head bearing, forgot about that. It did get freshened up at around 100 hrs when I put the damper on and the lever pivots have had some tlc as a matter of seasonal routine but definitely good to add to the list. Ack the wiring. After the 690 I've been weary of KTM wiring but the 500 is certainly more simple but some dielectric grease in the connectors would be good.

    I was thinking piston rings but it isn't down on power and isn't burning oil so thought I'd leave it alone, least I get into chasing the weak link after changing one wear item in the system.

    @DesertRatliff yeah wheel bearings are good. The fronts are the originals if you can believe that. The rears have been wearing out fast. I suspect I have on one occasion over tightened the axle nut but I think I'm on my 5th or 6th set. The bike does see a lot of mud and water but it seems the intervals are getting shorter. Chain seems aligned so truing and balancing the rear wheel and perhaps replacing the inner spacer might be next. The plastic inner spacer that goes on the brake side before you put the bearing in is suspect now. I've heard people not running it but it was in there fromt the factory so I have kept it.
    DesertRatliff likes this.
  14. CSpringsRider

    CSpringsRider Been here awhile

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    I have a question for those of you who run Tubliss. Has anyone installed them using a used tire and if so, what kind of problems, if any, did you have? The videos on their website say to use new tires because of the dent caused by the rim lock in a used tire. I have a set of Tubliss inserts and a new front tire for the 500 but my rear tire (MT43) still has lots of miles left. I also have the Beta with two "new" tires (150 miles at this point). Any feedback would be appreciated as to the likelihood of problems caused by using a Tubliss with used tires.

    Thanks!
    davesupreme likes this.
  15. CanadianX

    CanadianX Oh!? That is deep.

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    No feed back but I'd be curious to hear about how the front feels with tubliss installed. Someone told me they didn't like it as it felt vague for handling. (??) I figured it would feel about the same as a tube with the same air pressure ...? Thinking about going tubliss front and rear to reduce unsprung weight and preserve my rims.
  16. Dan950ser

    Dan950ser Two Wheeled Addict

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    Yes and the problem is that they will constantly leak because the bead doesn't want to seal on the rim. You could try and run the rim locks in the same place and see what happens.
  17. Branchbuster

    Branchbuster Been here awhile

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    I have installed a used tire, D606, on my TubeLiss 2 rear... Then went on and wore that one out. No problems at all.
  18. Branchbuster

    Branchbuster Been here awhile

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    On a Tubliss system the entire inner liner is a bead lock. You wont have problems if you Tire Slime the bead all the way around like the instructions tell you to do. You are also told to check your tire pressure each day you ride.This is a small concession to make for me for such great performance.
  19. Branchbuster

    Branchbuster Been here awhile

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    CanadianX.... Be careful not to over-tighten your drive chain. You might be doing this to make it more quiet, but it is hard on wheel bearings. They require more slack than other bikes for sure.
  20. Dan950ser

    Dan950ser Two Wheeled Addict

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    I understand how the tubliss system works and when I install mine with a new tire they rarely ever leak at all. I was suggesting to put the black rimlock in the picture near the old indent on the used tire. I use a tractor tire sealant because I like it more than the slime stuff. A used tire will work but probably leak so just keep an eye on your air pressure. IMG_5146.JPG