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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by Visigothic, Apr 27, 2011.
Ha, that's funny. I definitely hope not.
First race of season tomorrow. Up in the Sheridan Mountains outside Prescott AZ. 60 rows of 4 bikes each row... I'm in row 56. All good.
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Nice work 2bold, thanks mate!!
Best of luck!
I'm thinking ahead to a bit of an overhaul this winter and wondering what I should do to the 500. Thinking refresh and preventative maintenance. I'm closing in on 300 hrs with nothing but valve checks and oil and filter changes for the most part. The motors runs true, burns no oil and it shifts as it always has. Clutch is still the original, no problems with it. Bike is stock with a slight tweak to the TPS volts, canister removed and exhaust stock with screens and all.
Fluids (brake, coolant etc.) Any value in flushing the clutch hydraulic fluid?
Service Swing arm pivots
Rear brake pivot rebuild
True and balance the wheels
New chain and sprockets.
New in tank fuel filter
Maybe time to have the damper serviced? I was also thinking plastics and decals as mine are pretty beat but that the nature of riding it.
Wow, that is awesome service you've gotten out of that bike, very encouraging!
I think that's a pretty complete list but add steering head bearing service, lever pivot clean and grease. Once you start into it, you may notice other things like wiring or other little items that need attention.
Wheel bearings in good shape?
+1 on head bearings.
Otherwise, your list looks a lot like mine for the winter (clutch dampers and suspension anyway) and reminds me I should probably check my TPS setting.
Ah, yes head bearing, forgot about that. It did get freshened up at around 100 hrs when I put the damper on and the lever pivots have had some tlc as a matter of seasonal routine but definitely good to add to the list. Ack the wiring. After the 690 I've been weary of KTM wiring but the 500 is certainly more simple but some dielectric grease in the connectors would be good.
I was thinking piston rings but it isn't down on power and isn't burning oil so thought I'd leave it alone, least I get into chasing the weak link after changing one wear item in the system.
@DesertRatliff yeah wheel bearings are good. The fronts are the originals if you can believe that. The rears have been wearing out fast. I suspect I have on one occasion over tightened the axle nut but I think I'm on my 5th or 6th set. The bike does see a lot of mud and water but it seems the intervals are getting shorter. Chain seems aligned so truing and balancing the rear wheel and perhaps replacing the inner spacer might be next. The plastic inner spacer that goes on the brake side before you put the bearing in is suspect now. I've heard people not running it but it was in there fromt the factory so I have kept it.
I have a question for those of you who run Tubliss. Has anyone installed them using a used tire and if so, what kind of problems, if any, did you have? The videos on their website say to use new tires because of the dent caused by the rim lock in a used tire. I have a set of Tubliss inserts and a new front tire for the 500 but my rear tire (MT43) still has lots of miles left. I also have the Beta with two "new" tires (150 miles at this point). Any feedback would be appreciated as to the likelihood of problems caused by using a Tubliss with used tires.
No feed back but I'd be curious to hear about how the front feels with tubliss installed. Someone told me they didn't like it as it felt vague for handling. (??) I figured it would feel about the same as a tube with the same air pressure ...? Thinking about going tubliss front and rear to reduce unsprung weight and preserve my rims.
Yes and the problem is that they will constantly leak because the bead doesn't want to seal on the rim. You could try and run the rim locks in the same place and see what happens.
I have installed a used tire, D606, on my TubeLiss 2 rear... Then went on and wore that one out. No problems at all.
On a Tubliss system the entire inner liner is a bead lock. You wont have problems if you Tire Slime the bead all the way around like the instructions tell you to do. You are also told to check your tire pressure each day you ride.This is a small concession to make for me for such great performance.
CanadianX.... Be careful not to over-tighten your drive chain. You might be doing this to make it more quiet, but it is hard on wheel bearings. They require more slack than other bikes for sure.
I understand how the tubliss system works and when I install mine with a new tire they rarely ever leak at all. I was suggesting to put the black rimlock in the picture near the old indent on the used tire. I use a tractor tire sealant because I like it more than the slime stuff. A used tire will work but probably leak so just keep an eye on your air pressure.
Nice! Always able to find a way to work in that tractor you like to play with
Had are first bonfire of the year on Saturday and stoking the fire with the new tractor is definitely fun!
Nope, I'm good there and run on the slightly looser side for chain tension to ensure the suspension has full unimpeded range. I'm thinking chain alignment or bent rim/bad balance. I don't ride a lot of road miles but short rips on the hwy are required to get to the trail head and the rear wheel being unbalanced, low tire pressure and a non-DOT soft tire tends to hop a fair amount which may be stressing the bearings.