2012 ktm 500 exc?

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by Visigothic, Apr 27, 2011.

  1. scottydawg

    scottydawg Been here awhile

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    Circling back on sprockets now that I am going to make firm decision. Any input on using the Dirt Tricks products? How about Dirt Tricks vs. Supersprox?
  2. RideFreak

    RideFreak Torque Jockey

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    I've had great luck with supersprox, the front c/s are the factory width so no leaking because the sprocket wasn't machined right. I don't think I've ever thrown away a supersprox rear, they wear very slowly.
    WRW9751, scottydawg and oldfuddy like this.
  3. davesupreme

    davesupreme grand poobah

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    i've done a buncha used tires, and never had a problem, though they were in pretty good shape. i'm thinkin' the definition of used is different for some ..... one had prev rimlock marks (DesertIT rear), and i put a thin coat of Durabond on the marks, let it set up, and ran that tire til' it died, which takes awhile for a DesertIT.... just feel around and see if there's any marks.... maybe clean the outer bead w/a scotchbrite pad too.... never been a Slime guy, if you gotta take it apart in BFE, it's gonna be a mess.... i've had tires that the carcass was dying, and then Slime kinda worked, but the tire was dead anyway, so.... it's OK if you're around the house and have a water hose handy.... install w/a squirt bottle full of RuGlyde, works great.... biggest thing w/Tubliss is the inner gizmo has to shift around to seat right, and RuGlyde is the best i've tried..... and that rubber gizmo that Dan shows in the pic is real important.... if it's bunged up, you REALLY need a new one, or there's the leak and you're gonna kill the innertube.... that rubber gizmo and the correct torque (11ftlbs) is real important....
    Dan950ser likes this.
  4. Bungholio

    Bungholio Long timer

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    I would call them equivalent in quality, no problems using either one. DT ones may be lighter(rear). The DT rear seem to rattle more (chain on sprocket noise) than the Supersprox, which may be because of their spider web design and hardened steel they are made from. I just changed out a Supersprox and put on the DT setup that I saved from my previous KTM and the metal rattle noise is back.
    scottydawg likes this.
  5. oldfuddy

    oldfuddy Long timer

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    +1 on SuperSprox for these bikes. Almost a one and done deal. Ran one on my '12 500 for 4 years (200hrs) and when I sold the bike it didn't show tooth wear. I immediately put one on my '16. I also run them on my 950's for tens of thousands of miles.


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    scottydawg likes this.
  6. advmoto66

    advmoto66 Ride On!

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    Hey OF how did your race go last weekend?
  7. Boianovich

    Boianovich Old and Cautious

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    +1 on Supersprox, BUT you can kill it in a year if you don't change counter-shaft sprockets.
    scottydawg likes this.
  8. CanadianX

    CanadianX Oh!? That is deep.

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    I've had the KTM 2K (steel teeth over alum center, looks to be the same as the SuperSprox) rear for about 12,000 km and it still looks good. Ironman from TMDesignworks looks to be the same as the DT offering has been the go to for a lot of guys. KTM 2K was easy as I walk in to the local dealer at the time and picked it off the wall.
    scottydawg likes this.
  9. oldfuddy

    oldfuddy Long timer

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    Loose, granite, switchback, nasty long mountain climbs, step-ups/stupid step-downs, endo-type descents, lots of bike carnage.... was on the bike about 3-hrs. Had 4-hr time limit. Was awesome! took 2nd in my Super Seniors class and 22nd overall. 20 of 79 in my class succumbed to the Mountain. Oh, if anyone is wondering, the Clake 2 was flawless and is a game changer for me. I used the front brake maybe twice and rear brake pedal maybe twice as well all day. I typically use the front too much because I can't get good rear brake pedal control with my boots in serious technical situations and sometimes was forced to sit to get good foot control. Left hand had total clutch and brake control all day allowing better body positions, more standing, crazy right hand corner entrances, and stupid steep descents with more confidence. It's not dialed in completely, but even so it gets two-thumbs up from Sunday's performance. The 500 itself... I bitch it's too big for these races.... but, it lumbered up some of the craziest loose rocky terrain passing stuck or crashed 200s, 250s, and 350s. These 500's are just simply amazing.


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  10. CanadianX

    CanadianX Oh!? That is deep.

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    Can't discount your skill as a big factor to make the 500 climb but I think the more docile initial throttle on the 500 coupled with the torque really helps. It may be heavier and a bit lazier to weave through the trees but like you I find the 500 seems to shine in low speed grunt work, particularly when climbing and does pretty well in most everything else.

    Have you done anything to the cooling set up on your bike?
    oldfuddy likes this.
  11. oldfuddy

    oldfuddy Long timer

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    No, stock. I've had zero cooling issues. That said, I'm still thinking of wiring in a backup to the fan. The fans on these rarely fail. But the sensor is high fail item and would be lost time addressing it during a race. Thinking of just wiring the fan straight to power with a switch should the sensor fail. I like the trail tech or EE option (forget which one), but I want straight power to fan as a backup. I'll address that soon.


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  12. CSpringsRider

    CSpringsRider Been here awhile

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    Thank you for all the responses on the Tubliss. Going to do the install tomorrow with an experienced user of the product so it should go well.
  13. scottydawg

    scottydawg Been here awhile

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    Looks like all votes are for SuperSprox so I will go on that recommendation. Probably going 14/49 or 15/52. Now about chain... The Regina Z-Ring or DID or RK.
  14. Vincenthdfan

    Vincenthdfan Long timer

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    DID X-Ring

    I'm running 14/50 and its perfect on my 15 500EXC.
    vanzuyle likes this.
  15. Bitingdog

    Bitingdog That's not my dog

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    Regina is recommended by that snake oil guy, so definitely go RK or DID. "X" or "O" ring. X is best, but better to have a reputable brand of O-ring as opposed to a bargain brand X-ring
    Vincenthdfan likes this.
  16. pplassm

    pplassm Brace for collision!

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    I've had 3 Regina failures in my experience. I avoid them.
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  17. scottydawg

    scottydawg Been here awhile

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    I was thinking about going 14/49 so that would be close to your ratio. My stock set up had been fine right up until I was on a ride in Downieville last week and almost 90% of the trail was downhill with me having no engine braking. The brakes on the bike work good but some engine braking would be nice.

    You have swayed me to the DID X-Ring now (520 VX2 or ERV3 seems to be the right choice?). It was the Dirt Tricks snake oil where I saw the Regina. I am guessing I should do around 116?

    Friends don't let friends use Regina is the direction I am seeing this go. :D
  18. Bungholio

    Bungholio Long timer

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    116 links is correct for that combo. 13/49 is much nicer on trail and 15/49 for open road or open terrain. I've used them all 48, 49, 50 rear with 13/14/15 countershaft. After running the 50 for a while I felt the 49 was better, and that's the leftover one from the 530 that I just put on the 500, along with the same chain. Lots like the 50 rear/14 front combo. I went back to 14/48 before installing the 49 and it was too quick for trail for me, even with the G2 throttle tamer, that's why I installed the 49. I had the stock chain with the 48 and it moved the rear wheel pretty far forward which is probably another reason I didn't like it on trail plus I tore my knee up with that gearing on and just recently smashed my foot right after reinstalling it and going for a trail ride. Maybe it's just a bad luck combo for me. :hmmmmm
    scottydawg likes this.
  19. Bitingdog

    Bitingdog That's not my dog

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  20. Bitingdog

    Bitingdog That's not my dog

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    I have no beef with Dirt Tricks, I was referring to the BSDS guy who looks like the guy pictured here beside Frank Zappa: conehead.jpg