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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by Visigothic, Apr 27, 2011.
What screen is that?
It's from a 1200 Tiger Explorer via ebay.
Looking for a bit of wiring advice please. I want to install an ignition switch on my bike. I have a key switch that has both closed on and closed off so though I'd wire it to both the starter button and the kill switch. The left switch that has the kill button also has horn ,high/low beam and indicators so the is quite a few wires coming out of that so which colour wired do I need on the kill side ?
That looks kinda familiar
Any of you guys ditch the rim locks? I am considering it, because I never air down below 15psi or so.. It should help a lot with balancing the tires.
I will never ride without rim locks. If you're out somewhere and can't patch or replace a flat tire then the rim locks will make it possible to ride on the flat.
Also you should try airing down more. It's amazing how much more traction comes from just a few lbs difference!
Don’t do it. The rim locks are your only means of maintaining control if you get a flat. The tire will likely unseat from the rim, leaving you with no direct contact with the ground.
If you’re having trouble balancing your wheels, drill a new hole in the rim opposite the valve stem. Then install the rim lock opposite the valve stem.
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It helps allot with balancing the tire. Depends on the riding, I wouldn't do it for hardcore dirt. My dirt wheels have rimlocks, the cush wheel doesn't and that one gets run at 16-18 psi. No issues at that pressure.
Two rimlocks 180° apart or a Motion Pro lite-loc will make balancing your wheels easier. I couldn't ride half of the trails that I like at 15psi. Sometimes I run half of that in my back tire, depending upon the tire and terrain
Yup. I rode all day on a front flat. I had a tube but my buddies were in a hurry and I didn’t want to hold them up. In retrospect, the day might have been more fun with air in my tire! Rim locks are useful.
some 500 pic's from this weekend....
Update on the Tubliss install. The rear install was straightforward and no problem. I thought, "what is the big deal?" Then I took on the front. What a PITA! No matter what I tried, I could not get enough slack to get the last 6-8" of the second bead on the rim. Finally got it on with the help of my buddy using way more muscle than I would have expected to be required. I thought we were going to bend tire levers, we were pushing so hard. My tire changing technique definitely needs work.
You hired a photographer!?
Same here. Rear, easy. Front, WTF? Extra difficult with stiff tire like the Fatty DST. No fucking way that thing was fitting in the drop center with TUbliss. I used truck tire irons and a LOT of harsh language to get it done! Next time, wheels go to Clairemont Cycle Supply. Let Jamie deal with that task. I'll pay gladly. TUbliss is still worth it!
She's at every race...
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I actually have a set of the lite-locks in the garage. Maybe I will just install those. What do you recommend as far as weights once I do that?
Thinking of buying the Acerbis 4.1 tank. Anyone know if my KTM hard parts radiator guards will interfere?
My guards clear by ~ 1/8" at the top, outside corner.
I wish I could take pics like that.
My bike sprung a leak! Actually, the fuel line quick disconnect is leaking. I haven't finished diagnosing the problem but I would be interested to know if anyone else has had this happen. I had the KTM wash plug kit installed with the supplied O-ring on the tank side and the cap on the Zip-Ty filter for a couple of days while adjusting valves, waiting on shims and doing some other maintenance. I put the tank back on last night and reconnected the fuel line. Everything felt normal. When I hit the starter button a stream of fuel shot out from between the two halves of the quick disconnect fitting. The O-ring supplied in the wash kit felt a little tight. Could that have expanded the plastic on the male part of the quick disconnect fitting causing the connection to become loose? Or did the O-ring on the Zip-Ty filter dry out? Any other ideas to check?