2014 r1200 gs clutch question

Discussion in 'GS Boxers' started by jdbski, Feb 14, 2017.

  1. jdbski

    jdbski old but getting younger

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    when my bike is cold, when i pull in the clutch lever i can select first without any movement of the bike. But when the bike is warmed up when i pull in the lever and select 1st it jumps forward noticeably. my bike has 20,000 miles on it.
    #1
  2. ShaftEd

    ShaftEd Long timer

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    My GSW does this also, so I'm going with the standard line "They all do that!".:1drink
    #2
  3. DMilan

    DMilan Been here awhile

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    When I still owned my 2 LC..long gone now, they were like this too.
    A little too harsh for my liking, but as mentioned above "TADT"

    Most, if not all wet clutch bikes do it.. although many, not as harshly.

    The only work around is to start it in gear... or leave it in gear at stop lights etc...

    My only other experience (where I recall even noticing it) with the condition was with my departed V-Strom 650 and my 2, BMW 2008 K1200GT.
    With those bikes, if you held in the clutch for a period of time before attempting to drop into 1st, you could get a silent, lunge free, drama free shift result.
    5 seconds or so with the V-Strom.. nearly 10 seconds with the K1200 Wedges.. depending on temp.. as you mentioned.
    This "patience" technique did not work with my LCs.

    I didn't like it, but, no big deal I guess.
    #3
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  4. jdbski

    jdbski old but getting younger

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    thanks i too tried the wait with the clutch lever in for a while , doesnt help. Well I will put this thought out of my head and pop a few wheelies instead,
    thanks
    #4
  5. pistole

    pistole Long timer

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    they all seem to do that (my '14 GS too).

    but pls check your clutch reservoir and make sure its not overfilled. Many were overfilled from the factory.
    #5
  6. emidyl

    emidyl Been here awhile

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    my departed Yamaha fz-07 also did it, pretty much at random times. Upon start up I found I could sometimes eliminate it by slowly rolling down my driveway and then put it into gear. I always have my bike in gear when stopped at lights just as a safety thing in case I need to move.
    #6
  7. jdbski

    jdbski old but getting younger

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    will do, not sure why it being too full would cause my symptoms, thoughts?
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  8. german996

    german996 to infinity and beyond....

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    so I am going to throw my reasoning on this issue based on my knowledge and experience, you start the bike even if it is a wet clutch the oil is down at the bottom all is cold and materials are contracted, when it is warm or hot , clutch plates are way more expanded plus the friction of the oil makes the bike have the symptoms that you are describing, some bikes have what I call the plunger screw on the master cylinder, you screw it in 1/8 of a turn or so and will push the piston a bit more that at the same time will push the push rod a tad in, this will spread the plates a bit more to eliminate this issue. I will say that it is perfectly normal to have this issue, oil brand , viscosity, temperature will play a roll in this issue also.... MY 2 CTS
    #8
  9. jdbski

    jdbski old but getting younger

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    sounds like a reasonable explanation, but when its warm the bike jumps forward violently. I have had many bikes all wet clutches and not one ever did this. i will check out the reservoir level when cold and remove if its really full, maybe look for that screw you referred to as well.
    #9
  10. jdbski

    jdbski old but getting younger

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    been to a few other sites and there is chatter about the clutch having issues, some say too much mineral oil, some same some sort of software update is needed, some say they had a part changed out. What is everyone elses experience?
    #10
  11. german996

    german996 to infinity and beyond....

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    based on my experience again, plates seems to stick together when cold , and sitting for a while, my Ducati MTS620, Ducati m796 , KLR 650 do this sort of stuff when cold, and when its put in first gear, it launches forward, they seem to get better with 10w40 oil instead of 20w50 , but again way too many factors ......
    #11
  12. ragtoplvr

    ragtoplvr Long timer

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    To combat this tendency, pull in the clutch and then blip the throttle like the hardly guys do. The engine acceleration will break loose the clutches. You do not need a lot of RPM.

    Rod
    #12
  13. supasonic

    supasonic Been here awhile

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    Hey guys,

    i have a similar problem. I am a total noob. Do you recommend me to reduce the clutch fluid by myself, if its overfilled?

    Thx in advance. Greetings
    #13
  14. Smoke Eater 3

    Smoke Eater 3 Long timer

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    You can take a little fluid out if its too full. Its easy. Every time mine comes back from the dealer ALL the fluids are overfilled.

    I'm patiently waiting for Barnett to make a clutch pack for the GSW.
    #14
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  15. taz_va

    taz_va Long timer

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    As to the jerk of first gear, it's just the physics of a wet clutch. The oil bath creates some grip between all the rotating parts, so while the plates may be disengaged, there's still enough friction and momentum to keep some pull on the drivetrain/crankshaft. Almost every wet clutch design ever built will do this to some degree.

    There was a thread elsewhere discussing this to a greater depth. There was consensus that if the rear wheel of the bike is off the ground (bike safely secured), and you put it in first while holding the clutch in, you'll notice the wheel start to rotate. You should be able to safely stop the wheel with your hand. If you can't, then the plates aren't disengaging enough, and an adjustment of the master cylinder plunger may be in order--talk to your dealer if you believe the jerk to first is "too violent".
    #15
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