2017 Sherco 250 Factory

Discussion in 'Trials' started by motobene, May 14, 2017.

  1. motobene

    motobene Motoing for 46 years

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    Now begins another motobene deep exploration!

    My bike was manufactured late April, less than 1 month before! A customer's new Scorpa SC was also made in April. This points to there being no buffer inventory.

    This bike is substantially similar to my beloved 2016 250 Factory, but with the new clutch and other, more-minor changes.

    2017 final drive gearing: 44/9 to match the faster primary drive ratio (was 42/10 in 2016, which I changed to 44/10).

    The chain is back to the classic Sherco 101-link with the half link. Irritating is Sherco orienting the master link clip on the inboard side! Perhaps the idea is the clip is less likely to be popped off on the inboard side? It is a pain in the ass, however, to get at the clip, especially when the clip lines right up with wheel spokes! I flip the link around to the more accessible side of course.

    The 2017 triple clamp fork pinch bolts are now lighter M6 versus M8.

    The upper handlebar clamps have slight machining changes. No more directional arrows, and there is a ball end mill track on the side for the handlebars vernier marks.

    I align the clamp mark with the posterior-most vernier labelled -2 on my 2017 125 Factory produced earlier. This latest 250 has the white bars, but the center portion between the clamps was left black by not being painted. The vernier is 5 simple white ticks, same as the black Sherco-Scorpa '1298' bars. So, the white bars are probably just over-painted standard bars. I love the bend!

    The blue anodized Oxia head has an air -burp screw in the top for 2017.

    That's it for now. More comparisons to my 2016 and other details as I dive in deeper.

    Attached Files:

    #1
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  2. 2whlrcr

    2whlrcr gooligan

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    Forget the Sherco, post up pics of the Scorpa as you assemble it!
    #2
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  3. Norman Foley

    Norman Foley Devotee of the Husqvarna

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    Scorpa will go with the KTM nicely. '17 125SC and 250SC...
    [​IMG]
    #3
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  4. jonnyc21

    jonnyc21 Trials Ninja

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    Looking forward to hearing about the 2017 250 and the comparison between it and the 2016! Thanks. :thumb
    #4
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  5. motobene

    motobene Motoing for 46 years

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    I was wondering how to handle the Scorpa. Maybe in a separate thread? It is an opportunity to compare between the two. There are quite a number of minor differences.
    #5
  6. Norman Foley

    Norman Foley Devotee of the Husqvarna

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    Separate threads would probably serve the 2 bikes best. Thanks!
    #6
  7. 10K

    10K Trail Runner

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    Fixt
    GO BETA! #1
    #7
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  8. Norman Foley

    Norman Foley Devotee of the Husqvarna

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    Is that how you spell "Fixed" in Italian?:jack
    #8
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  9. motobene

    motobene Motoing for 46 years

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    Assembled and ride yesterday so I could order stuff today.

    Jetting is still ridiculous at MJ125 and PJ42! Does Sherco believe that because I prefer a 250 over a 300 that I must therefore have a putt putt throttle style with an inability to vary my pace? I use my throttle deeply and forcefully. I don't ride with the slide low with the engine spending a lot of time 4 stroking, so I don't need to starve the low-speed mixture to makeup for low throttle-use skill.

    Didn't even ride it stock. In went the CarbonTech reeds and MJ120 and PJ52. I also found the floats set too lean of level. Corrected to lean of level. Runs awesome!

    Gosh the new clutch is good! Easy pull and the best slip zone I've experienced. I can think how much slip I want and it does exactly that and doesn't surge or waver. This clutch-dump over a hill-climb gap in 4th gear used to scare me on my '16. On the '17 I just fly right over with no concerns.

    I was surprised to find the travel rate (gearing) righter in 2017 than in 2016. No need to increase the rear sprocket by 2 teeth! The 44/9 final drive is very well matched to the new primary drive ratio. Nice to have a factory get to where I've been for many years in this subtle detail :-). Great to not being pushed too fast I first, which otherwise requires too much clutch work.

    Pissed about them over tightening the M6 lower triple clamp screws. Stripped the head on one. The correctly grease the screws, but then they torque to dry specs or former M8 spec, which damn near welds the screws in.

    Set suspension clickers at zero for break-in. Tech/Ohlins tend to be harsh in the chop until well broken in.

    Engine is smooth and does not have overage of mechanical noises. A relief when first riding a new machine.

    Overall I can tell I'm going to be quite passionate about this bike. Very sweet!
    #9
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  10. motobene

    motobene Motoing for 46 years

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    Yesterday when fitting the CarbonTech reeds I noticed the new reeds kept lifting off the mating surface. Flipping them over made no difference. Then I noticed the thin stamped reed stops aren't flat at the mating surface due to edge distortion by the stamping die.

    The problem was solved by dragging the mating surface of the stamped steel parts over 80 grit with pressure. Until the surface is mostly flattened for about 50% of full contact (thus will make sense when you do it), I then re transition the radius to the flat.

    Problem solved!

    The reason the problem didn't show up with the stock glass-fiber reeds is they are a bit thicker and softer and can absorb the stamping die distortions.

    Some will say leave the reed stops out, but the CTT132 reeds (maybe all the CarbonTech versions) don't come with steel backers like the 2-stage Boyesens used to. The stops reduce bending stress fatigue on the thin carbon reeds, so I will not leave them out.
    #10
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  11. Gordy

    Gordy Team Listo

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    :lurk
    #11
  12. lineaway

    lineaway Long timer

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    You should keep an eye on the left M/c from what we hear.
    #12
  13. Gordy

    Gordy Team Listo

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    You keep talking crap. Maybe you should spill what you "know". :ear
    #13
  14. lineaway

    lineaway Long timer

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    No crap just what I heard. And also that you had an issue. Asking if you got yours fixed was not unusual.:ear
    #14
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  15. Norman Foley

    Norman Foley Devotee of the Husqvarna

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    Some of the '17 Scorpas and Shercos have had a bad coating on the clutch slave cylinder pistons and were losing mineral oil. A couple of the bikes Mike sold... one Scorpa 250SC and one Sherco 250 Factory were definitely leaking. RYP sent new pistons and Mike replaced them on all the '17 bikes as a precaution. My bike didn't leak, but piston was replaced.
    #15
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  16. lineaway

    lineaway Long timer

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    Things happen with new design changes. Happens to all the brands.
    #16
  17. Norman Foley

    Norman Foley Devotee of the Husqvarna

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    Most likely a supplier quality control problem.
    #17
  18. motobene

    motobene Motoing for 46 years

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    The clutch master cylinder of the Factory models was changed from BrakTec to the tried and true old classic AJP. This change is still a mystery to me, as the BrakTec master cylinder is a great design.

    By being a problem with AJP and BrakTec, it's provably not a master cylinder problem, but as us reported, a piston problem. They both share the same piston if memory serves. Dale told me of a design upgrade to the pistons and seals somewhere between `15 and `16. It is possible this new-shape piston had a bad lot.

    What do the removed bad ones look like?


    The pistons for a long time have been hard coated machined aluminum and very bullet proof. Hard coat can be messed up and end up chalky instead of slick, transluscent (greenish with the aluminum alloy they use), and harder than a file.
    #18
  19. motobene

    motobene Motoing for 46 years

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    In my first 15-minute ride I managed to give both front and rear tires leaks! Soapy water doesn't show where the leaks is in the rear, so I will slime it. The front will need a tube patch:doh
    #19
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  20. Norman Foley

    Norman Foley Devotee of the Husqvarna

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    Check your valve cores.... My bike had a leaky rear and I thought I'd need a plug? When I got out the soapy water, I started by pulling the valve cap and doing the core.... bubbles. I tried tightening it and no luck, so swapped it and fixed.
    #20