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Discussion in 'Land of the Rising Sun: ADV Bikes from Japan' started by MariusD, Oct 4, 2016.
I would get the std 650 (cast wheels) for Street-only riding. Less upkeep than spokes.
I'd say 8-9.
What mcmann said. I'd actually get the cast wheel for most uses, even those that include dirt roads. I've had V-Stroms for 17 years now and I have yet to damage a wheel in my "off-roading".
As an added bonus, you don't have to pay for questionable accesories Suzuki bundles in the XT (but I have to admit that if you really want spoke wheels, it's a bargain, even if you throw away the handguards and lower cowling).
I would say I am an 8-9 as well.
I use it as a light touring bike. My wife has a WeeStrom (40k miles) as well, and this is my third Wee.
I appreciate the light, nimble feel of the bike.
Good fuel mileage and decent range. I do wish it had a 6 gallon tank.
Aerodynamics are better on this gen, but the fairing is smaller up front than the Gen1 and Gen2 bikes.
Cost of ownership is low. Purchase price is reasonable, maintenance is cheap and easy, and less frequent than many other bikes. The bike runs great on regular 87 octane fuel. There is significant aftermarket support for the line and many Gen1 and Gen2 parts fit.
The height and weight of the bike are quite manageable compared to many ADV type bikes.
The new gauges and electronics bring the bike up to current standards.
I love having an analog tach. The bar tach on my Africa Twin is fairly useless, hard to see in certain light, etc.
The low RPM assist makes the bike really easy to ride in traffic. You don't notice it much until you go to another bike without it and wonder what is wrong with the throttle response.
Fueling is spot on. Motor is butter smooth and more responsive than previous generations.
Much more handsome than previous Stroms.
The budget suspension is really not bad. In the past I have had the rear shock converted to fully adjustable with a remote reservoir and stiffer spring, and the front forks converted to fully adjustable with cartridges, but I think I am going to leave it alone this time.
The brakes are basic as well, but have more bite and feel than my '14 did. The lever is quite firm and two fingers are plenty.
My trans is a bit tight and notchy at this point, but loosening up. I only have 350 miles on the bike so far.
My Givi PLX racks should be here in two weeks. They will hold the Givi V35 side cases. I have a SW Motech rear rack and V47 top case now.
Koso Apollo heated grips are going on this weekend.
An Eastern Beaver PC-8 has been installed.
Looking for a GPS mount to go above the instruments.
Pretty happy at this point!
$8,799 is pretty good.
The Versys is up to 8,099, but you get more comfort and convience with the V twin.
More cargo room
I'll give the DL the Championship for now.
To be fair, the bikes have two different personalities.
If I had to commute often, and sometimes in the rain, I would lean toward the DL.
Cogent fork valves and the proper spring for your weight plus a fork brace will improve the front end.
Any one know if the gen 2 seats fit on the 2017s. Stock seats not bad but I think there's room for improvement. I'd like to try a seat concepts as I love the one I have on my TW. BUT seat concepts only lists up to the 2016 Strom and I was unsure weather they fit or not.
They do NOT fit.
The 2014 1000 might?
If not they develope new seats fast.
They have a 3d digital scanner to copy the stock seat foam and go from there.
Make sure clutch disengage completely. To easy pull Suzuki increased slave arm length beyond reasonable, it only works in one position with about zero play left at lever.
And a couple oil changes and good oil will make difference.. has been running M1 0w40 FS European Car formula much better than T6 people usually run good luck.
Thanks- I have adjusted the lever to remove most of the slack that was there at delivery. Will see if a bit more helps.
I should reach 600 miles this weekend and will change the oil. Not going to go to synthetic until at least 3k miles.
WRT Rotella T6, I have not had great shifting feel results in previous WeeStroms. They would feel good for the first 100 or so miles, then the shifting would get notchy again. Plain old Suzuki 10-40 conventional was better through its entire service life.
Yeah T6 isn't that great try M1 FS European Car it is not JASO MA certified but works really good one of the best protection and long lasting. Current fill has 7k and shifts better than T6 ever had. And it has safe levels of Moly, 72, comparable to T6 60 and Honda's 80.
Not to launch an oil thread, but... I assume you mean safe levels of moly, etc. WRT the clutch. What are the benefits of M1 FS European Car vs JASO certified MC oils like Mobil 1 Racing 4T 10W-40?
read this: https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/ he had it tested and found that it had highest wear protection of all oils without Prolong, better then 4T (rated #3 vs #72). From what I had seen on BITOG from VOA the only complain was that it is at the lower spectrum in terms of viscosity, otherwise nothing bad. Will run UOA at next change closer to 10k and post results on BITOG
The reason I like it I have a Bales adapter (http://balestech.com/filter.htm) and this is cheap and widely available; can do 2 bike oil change at any Walmart parking lot for <$40.
Now let's not derail this thread anymore, PM if you have any questions.
Some light reading in there
It's based on what's best for autos however.
Did not see Redline oil listed but did note Motul 300v listed down the line.
300v being considered one if the best Moto performing oils on the market.
Basically if your oil is less than type V/5 ester based synthetic oil (ie type 3 or 4 synth oils) then it's sub grade per what is available on the market and technology wise.
It's that simple, want the best for your engine use an ester based synthetic oil.
After that type 4 and 3 oils work well.
I do not use traditional petroleum oils (below 3) anymore.
Dude is an owner of 540 bimmer, so it is his angle, and most of oils he reviewed are <w40, no use for bike. But still some useful info. I use ester oil in forks but it is too much dinero to run in engine; my 14m.o. Wee has 38k on it. To my defense most Stromers are cheap perhaps next to KLR or DR owners, and I like the "any walmart" angle. With oil changes and tires (Mitas E07) just need to figure out how to make chains last 25k.
Yeah I think we may started another religious war
Figured so. T6 oil from Walmart works for most in the big picture, I'm just very picky.
Since my repairs and maintenance are all on my time, my schedule & my slow meticulous work, I then have no problem purchasing top shelf fluids and parts as I see it as a balance out $ wise.
Maybe I should come by with 12-pack and have valves adjusted.. just got quoted $900 in one place and $660 in another.
I made a morning loop down to this place.
And averaging this MPG