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Discussion in 'Moto Bellissima: All Other Dualsports' started by Salvo, Sep 22, 2012.
I'm not terribly smart, just educated
"The older I get, the dumber I feel."
To those of you who have adjusted your front preload for the optimal sag measurement of 56mm,
1. How much do you weigh?
2. How many turns of preload did you set?
3. Which mode(s) were you in when this was done?
If you were unable to get the optimal 56mm (I know a few people have reported only being able to set ~25mm), let us know!
I don't know what my settings (turns) are as I did it in conjunction with the dealer after changing the springs front and rear. It takes at least one other person and really, two helpers are better for most of us; one to hold the bike up with the rider settled on the saddle, and another to take the measurement.
However, it doesn't matter what mode you are in for the front end, except to the extent that the rear sag affects the front as it does not adjust for sag/preload when switching modes. For the rear, I believe it should be set to single rider, urban mode as other settings add preload and/or damping with the presumed increases in weight.
What other people set their static sag to is a bit of a red herring in any case. Your setting will essentially be unique to you. You have to emulate your standard seated riding position with gear and then there is the matter of preference for those of us savvy enough (I don't fall into that category) to know the small differences an mm here or there might make.
For me, it was worth getting help with although the general procedures are easy enough as long as you have the helpers. My dealer essentially did it for free after the spring change.
I have a 2012, but this is one place where I think the general approach is the same for both.
Thanks for the reply Pampero however my question was more aimed at 2013 owners.
I've seen a few statements here and there that people have only been able to dial in 25mm of front sag on Skyhook forks.
I'm trying to get an idea of 1. if this is a widespread problem for skyhook bikes (if someone has dialed in 56mm successfully, I'd like to know about it!), and 2. if using a different spring rate would fix it (as far as I know, no one has re-sprung skyhook forks, I'm not sure if it's even possible)
I'm going to adjust mine in the near future, will post how I go.
Thanks again, some good info in your post.
You're welcome Bubba. Actually, it wasn't until after I posted that I realized we were on the 2013 thread; by then it was too late and I let it stand after adding my 2012 info. Later I realized you'd been discussing this over on .ms as well. I'm sure you'll get it figured out.
These suspensions will be truly fully active when they are able to manage the sag settings as well, should such a day ever come. As it is, the tech piggybacks on the automotive developments.
BTW guys I've noticed my forks banging/clunking in some low speed situations (urban and touring modes) with low preload settings.
Increasing the damping setting to a notch or two (firmer) should help to eliminate the clunking. I'll let you know how I go.
It does seem to effect the initiation of the bang/clang; i.e., it may not occur as easily at some speeds or on some bumps, but, alas, not the existence of the clanging....
More preload is static compression of the spring. This will then reduce the amount of sag to a certain extent but will also allow the spring to expand back rapidly to its set point.
To check this you can set the fork preload to zero (none) and get a friend to help you bounce the front wheel on the ground and lift it of the ground (with the ignition on) then set the preload to the max setting and do the same. Then do it again with the ignition off and note the results.
I just saw this on the local news and had to take a picture.
It just won't stop raining here. We've had over 70 inches of rain this year.
The most rain in one year for us since the late 1800's. (Western NC)
Guys with the clunking issue, are you positive it's the front end that's clunking?
While riding slowly today in touring mode I heard it, but the front end soaked up the bump nicely as it should, it wasn't until the rear wheel traveled over the bump that it clunked.
I'm not convinced it's the suspension bottoming out or topping out that's causing it (I'll rest my heel on the swingarm and pay attention to the travel next time it happens), it could well be the chain banging on the guard or even the number plate or flimsy ass rear fender rattling that's causing the noise. Only happens at very low speeds in my case.
Bubba, have you been able to get your own sag measurements yet? If so, what were they? And how much gas was in the tank when you took the measurements?
Hope you're enjoying your bike.
Not yet mate, should be doing it this weekemd. I'll post the outcome here.
It is the forks. When it is the right conditions, it will rattle your teeth. Anyone that has ridden many years most likely has experienced this with an old vintage bike. When a fork on an old bike has lost all of it's damping from lack of oil and whooped dampers, it is an unmistakable feel and sound.
I set mine not too long ago. I weigh 100kg. I ended up 1 full turn out from all the way in on the front. I have a standard model though, so may be different to the electronic suspension models.
Vellies - At 90% ( 9 out of 10 turns ) fully pre-loaded does it still clunk once the front wheel leaves the tarmac ? (as rebound controls its speed back to it natural sag level (rider + fuel + luggage) )
I am lucky, I do not have any issues with clunking.
We should go riding some time vellies, just noticed you're in Perth.
"I got the word yesterday that the Factory Service Rep told the guys at our shop to get my bike back in for another look. They (he) acknowledged that "this clunking" IS a known issue (apparently, for reasons we could only speculate, it has not yet made it up to the level of a bulletin or recall) and involves only the right fork. The first step in the resolution will be to measure the length of the affected uncompressed fork. Those measurements will be compared to the length of a "known standard" or new fork. Depending on how those measurements compare, either the fork will be replaced or have a shim added. I didn't get any additional details and will find out next week what's up with mine. I must say, I'm relieved to finally see some action on the matter; there have been WAY too many of these out there to just ignore the issue. So.....if you have a bike with a fork clunk, take it back to the dealer and (politely) insist that they get that fork checked out."
Good Stuff Hubilado. I have a clunker and will print this out when I take it in for the 1st service....
Bubba and Vellies. Can you guys ride during the week ? Pinjarra / Dwellingup / Jarahdale circuit is nice and quite for a casual cruise ..... ?