$3 Bead Breaker and photos

Discussion in 'Crazy-Awesome almost Dakar racers (950/990cc)' started by Barak, Sep 2, 2006.

  1. Barak

    Barak adventure photographer

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    I have been reading about different ways to effectively break the bead on the KTM rims, especially since doing it myself the old fashioned way a few weeks ago. I have changed tires on bikes dozens of times using the jump up and down on the tire with your heel and use your sweat as lubricant technique untill I read some of the treads on bead breaking here.
    Thank you , thank you, thank you
    Decided to try the cheap way first. Got a 5 inch C clamp from Harbor Freight tools for $3.
    Proceeded to break the bead on a Dunlop D908 in about 30 seconds. Worked like a charm!:clap
    The nice thing about this way is that I may even be able to make a repair to the tube, out in the field without dismantling the entire rim. I'll have to see.
    Attached are the photos.
    I think this would work well with the scorpions too.
    #1
  2. El Diablo

    El Diablo Mama I'm goi'n fast!

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    Nice...thanks for the info. You saved me $100:clap
    #2
  3. AZcacti

    AZcacti Dope on a Rope

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    Nice Pics:clap
    #3
  4. Redbull Addict

    Redbull Addict I need another one...

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    So are you getting the C-clamp for our trip? one less thing I need to worry about...
    #4
  5. vanimal

    vanimal smiling under my helmet

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    thanks barak, i was gonna order the $100 bead breaker like some have suggested, now i'm gonna take the cash and buy more beer!:freaky actually i don't drink but there are more useful things i can do with the cash. thanks for the tip and pics. :clap
    #5
  6. STUFF2C

    STUFF2C We Ain't Left Yet!!

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    #6
  7. Ricardo Kuhn

    Ricardo Kuhn a.k.a. Mr Rico Suave

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    actually worrks even better if you focus the power of the C-clamp into one surface of the tyre (if is dificult) you can use a piece of wood or even the tyre lever but maybe will scratch the rim to prevent the clamps from moving the tyres on the two sides and focus the screw movement on just one face of the tyre by mounting the tyrelever in a somehow tangent angle to the rim (resting on two point of the rim as far away as possible)...

    believe me It works, I have used the method a bunch of times.
    #7
  8. Donkey Hotey

    Donkey Hotey De Jo Momma

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    That's wise that you tried it but caution to those counting on it, this method doesn't work every time with every tire.

    I've had stubborn tire beads that I tried to break that way and had zero luck (same HF clamps). The problem was with the length of the bead that it contacts. It just would not get down close enough to the bead and over a long enough distance to do the job. It just stretched against the tire and the clamp slipped outward. Try it first. YMMV.
    #8
  9. 950 Adventurer Nut

    950 Adventurer Nut Lunatic

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    Great Pics

    The simple idea's are usually the best, no always the cheapest though.
    #9
  10. team ftb

    team ftb Befuddled Adventurer

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    Just thinking out loud here.

    How about a 3 inch section of mill bastard file underneath the C clamp contact point to increase its surface area and the texture of the file should help with the keeping the clamp from slipping.
    #10
  11. Dare2fail

    Dare2fail Been here awhile

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    I tried it with Pirelli Scorpions and found that the contact patch was too small and it just folded the tyre. I ended out having to use 3 of them to try and push enough of the tyre to lift it over the bead. I think success depends on your rims and the tyres that you run, but it didn't work for me. That said, if you try it and it doesn't work it's not like you have lost a lot of money on it :clap
    #11
  12. radiowazee

    radiowazee Golewahz???

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    Sears is having a big sale this weekend on tools, etc. Wonder if I can pick me up a 5" C clamp! :)
    #12
  13. radiowazee

    radiowazee Golewahz???

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    I wonder if two blocks of wood -- one between the clamp and the tyre, and the other between the clamp and the rim (still with the microfibre towel in there to prevent scratching) would do it.

    Seems it would offer a wider surface area to press against the Scorp's walls.

    You're right -- $3 to experiment ain't a bad price :evil
    #13
  14. Donkey Hotey

    Donkey Hotey De Jo Momma

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    Unless you're 20 miles out in the desert or woods and can't get the bead loose. Is it worth the savings to have to hike 20 miles? Or scrap your rim and/or tire because you couldn't get it loose and were forced to ride on it?
    #14
  15. Barak

    Barak adventure photographer

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    It's a good idea to test anything new at home before taking it out to the field. The Clamp also makes it easier to get that first tire iron wedged in even if the bead is not completely separated.
    #15
  16. Skinner

    Skinner Mr.KTM

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    It works great on every tire. Some times you have to also help it along with your heal, the sidestand etc. but once you have the bead pushed in as far as you can with the C-clamp the rest is easy.
    I've done it for years.
    I would however as said earlier, keep a couple two to three inch peices of wood scrap to displace the pressure of the C-clamp.
    #16
  17. 950 Adventurer Nut

    950 Adventurer Nut Lunatic

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    Bead Break.jpg

    I now use a 6 inch G clamp and a small piece of timber, with the timber the bead breaks a lot easier than in Baraks post.(the timber in the picture is long just so it could be seen for photo). I also found the bead breaks easier with threaded end of the clamp on the timber. Wind up till bead breaks then rip tyre off as per norm.

    Thanks for the great tip Barak

    Happy bead breaking everyone :clap :freaky
    #17
  18. Win38-55

    Win38-55 Been here awhile

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    You could always use a tire iron or two.
    #18
  19. Will Guyan

    Will Guyan Adventurer

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    Mind explaining the duct tape to a neophyte?
    cheers!
    #19
  20. k7

    k7 Ancien cyclist

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    Do you have a 950?
    #20