$35.00 Heated Jacket Liner (DIY)

Discussion in 'Equipment' started by 65 Flathead, Oct 10, 2009.

  1. KEN PHENIX

    KEN PHENIX "CERTIFIABLE"

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    A "short" in a resistance wire circuit wouldn't necessarily blow a fuse right away. It is more likely that the affected circuit would get very hot - hot enough to melt garments / burn skin. Otherwise, say your on a trip, it's 20f, your bike is packed to the hilt. Where is the fuse? Where are your tools? Not a pretty picture, is it?
  2. KEN PHENIX

    KEN PHENIX "CERTIFIABLE"

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    Different sizes and applications may behave differently but in 4 years of building gear with 26ga nicrome, the wire stays covered just fine.
  3. GS Addict

    GS Addict Pepperfool

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    A poor practice none the less. Heat shrink is not meant to be stretched along it's length.
  4. liceyscrub

    liceyscrub ADV rider(mostly solo)

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  5. nhbubba

    nhbubba Internet Tough Guy

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    That's cool. Amazon has a little video on it. I don't know if the illustration is accurate or not, but it shows three rather small heating elements.

    Not ideal, but that's a great price.

    Jacket is also too big for me. (Amazing!) And the XL is the only size at that price. My understanding is that these things should be somewhat tight fitting.
  6. F6BANGER

    F6BANGER Adventurer

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    Cool jacket. Somewhere I read it was 1.5amps. I cant find it now.[​IMG]
  7. liceyscrub

    liceyscrub ADV rider(mostly solo)

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    The battery is a 1.4ah battery, but I am no electrical guru so not sure what that means
  8. Yaatri

    Yaatri Adventurer

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    What this means is that if you had a 60 watt jacket, (.i.e. drawing 5 amps), it will last about 17 minutes max, most likely half as long.
    Ratings such as ampere can be deciphered only if you know the current draw at which the rating is specified. Ampere hour is an indication of duration of time for which you can draw a certain current. If the the rating is specified at a current draw of, say, 500 milli amp., you can draw 500 milli amp for 2.8 hours. The relationship between the timne and the current is not linear. One would think that you can draw 1 amp for 1.4 hours and 2 amps at .72 hours. But it ain't so. Increasing the current draw reduces the time drastically.
    THis jacket is OK for walk around the block or some yard work, but is pretty useless for a motorcycle,
  9. JensEskildsen

    JensEskildsen Long timer

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    I bought a 11.1v 5000mah lipo for my jacket, and made it "wireless" with a dimmer with remote control. It lasts 1,5-2 hours.

    I've made so I can swith between battery and wire harness for the bike.

    The battery is a bit bulky, but not that bad at all.
  10. F6BANGER

    F6BANGER Adventurer

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    You could also use this
    [​IMG]
    Its 3.5x4x2.75 if you dont mind the bulk. I use them on my bicycle. I've got 35w and 75w halogen headlights. When I get home I change it out with the battery in my home alarm system to charge. :thumb Get it from an alarm battery store. I paid around $9. I fabricated my water bottle holder to accommodate it. sorry I kinda got off track.
  11. JensEskildsen

    JensEskildsen Long timer

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    Cool sulution for ya....

    But yeah, too big for me, but have thought about it, because I could use it in paralel with the bikes battery/charging system.

    Havent found THE perfect solution for me yet, so I made sure to make it versatile :)
  12. GS Addict

    GS Addict Pepperfool

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    Swith??? :eek1:D
  13. Yaatri

    Yaatri Adventurer

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    That's an excellent idea. If you are going to install heated gear, extra lighting and louder horn, you need a supplemental battery as the stock battery might not be able to support the load.
  14. GS Addict

    GS Addict Pepperfool

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    Adding a supplemental battery will not help.
    The charging source must be capable of covering the increased load.
    ie: Larger capacity alternator.
  15. F6BANGER

    F6BANGER Adventurer

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    Im lucky, my alternator puts out 546 watts & 14.2 volts @3500 rpm.
  16. JensEskildsen

    JensEskildsen Long timer

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    Yeah, but you buy yourself some time with 2 batteries, or 1 bigger.

    I have under 200w in total, and need to turn the jacket and heated grips, up and down from time to time. Have thought about a stator upgrade, but im a bit concerned to DIY, and I down wanna spend money either :rofl
  17. Yaatri

    Yaatri Adventurer

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    It may or may not help.
    Often batteries are are underrated. Under normal circumstances, not all your load is active. Horn and turn signals, and stop light for example. In those situations an extra battery can help. During times when not everything is active, your charging system can handle normal loads.

    Of course, your alternator must be able to put out enough current to charge both batteries and run all the normal electronics such as ignition, and lighting. You can definitely increase the time before your batteries need to be charged externally, when you start with fully charged batteries.
    You could also wire your non critical stuff to the extra battery, which doesn't have to be charged by the alternator. There is moe than one way of handling the extra battery.
  18. GS Addict

    GS Addict Pepperfool

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    Exactly - a compromise, not a true fix.
    The defense rests.
  19. Yaatri

    Yaatri Adventurer

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    Under some situations, it's a very good fix, if you know what you are doing though. By adding a battery, you are simply increasing your battery capacity. (Having a bigger tank of gas will not fix any other problem any more or less than a an extra battery or a larger capacity battery will.) It gives a relief to already overloaded electrical system. It's not the spare battery that overloads the system though.
    It's a cheaper "fix" than replacing the alternator stator.

    I am not sure what your argument is or what it is that needs to be defended, especially when nothing was/is under attack. :)
  20. Antennas

    Antennas Been here awhile

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    Just wanted to say thanks to everyone in this thread, as I built my own jacket from it. Especially to F6Banger who supplied my wire as he had some left over he wasn't using.
    I got an $8 PWM controller of Ebay and wired it in and put the control on the faring of my KLR. Now it goes from 0-100% nice and smooth and I can get any amount of heat I need. Final config the vest draws 5A and heated grips draw 3.5A so not too bad at all. Runs fine with both on. :D

    Andrew