3D Printers. Who's got one?

Discussion in 'Shiny Things' started by dorkpunch, Jan 8, 2013.

  1. djb_rh

    djb_rh Been here awhile

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    Sounds complicated. I draw in Sketchup. Save as STL. Open in ReplicatorG. Click "generate gcode" button. Click "print to file" button and select the SD card as my destination. Remove card and insert in printer. Couple button presses on the printer and it prints.

    I can skip the SD card step and print via USB, but with my 2010 MacBook Air I have had it interrupt and screw up a print a little. The SD step makes that impossible. *shrug*


    --Donnie
  2. James Adams

    James Adams ɹǝsn uʍop ǝpᴉsdn Administrator

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    [​IMG]

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  3. djb_rh

    djb_rh Been here awhile

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    Aside from the awesomeness that is ADV, is there a good general forum for 3D printing that folks here would recommend? In my searches I see a good many different ones, but the only one with any decent traffic I've stumbled upon is the RepRap one. I'm not really using a RepRap or even RepRap-derived printer (I don't think) since I have a Makerbot Replicator clone, but maybe that's still a reasonable place to ask questions.

    Basically, I've got my printer doing fairly well, but I loaded some orange filament and did an iPhone case print. It works, but it came out pretty "stringy" in look and feel on the large surface of the back. Yes, I did remove the build platform (which came off quite nicely), and I think I have the table level and a good distance from the nozzle (a business card is snug, but will move). Could it just be cheap ABS doing that? I got it off eBay. But in my poking around I can't seem to tell what's good from crap in that department, either.

    Any thoughts here?


    --Donnie
  4. James Adams

    James Adams ɹǝsn uʍop ǝpᴉsdn Administrator

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    I assume your software is configured for your nozzle and filament sizes. I know that with Slic3r, you can fine-tune the extrusion rate; maybe you can set it to 110% or something similar to push just a little bit more plastic through to make the lines slightly wider to improve the appearance.

    If the problem seems to be more with the plastic not adhering to itself well enough, then I would guess that temperature is a factor; try increasing the extrusion temperature slightly on that first layer, it may improve the self-adhesion.

    If the filament was bargain-basement filament, the plastic quality is probably fine, but the filament diameter may not be consistent, resulting in an inconsistent extrusion rate (which isn't good). You can periodically measure the diameter of the filament with a set of calipers to see if it's consistently 3mm or 1.8mm or whatever they claim it is. If the diameter is consistent but not quite what it's labeled as, then I would imagine that the software can be configured to compensate for that.
  5. djb_rh

    djb_rh Been here awhile

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    Good suggestions. It's definitely configured right...I'm seeing much better behavior with white and blue filaments that I have. That said, I *did* monkey with table alignment in between. After some more reading, I *think* I might have the table a little far from the nozzle right now. I used a pretty thick card-stock type business card to set it, and I think I need to go to a regular sheet of paper.

    Funny you mention the diameter of the filament...I'm getting very consistent printing, so I think this roll is fine in that department. But I had a yellow from the same vendor that won't even feed. It's supposed to be 1.75mm that's okay to +/- 0.05mm, but it measured 1.85+ and sometimes as much as 2.0! Spooled out about 10 feet and it was fairly consistent. Measured the butt-end where it stuck out of the spool at like 1.9mm. The vendor is replacing that roll with no questions asked, though. *shrug*

    I'm not sure I'd say it's "bargain basement", I just don't trust some eBay vendors. They had a wide selection of colors and fast service, but where are THEY getting this stuff from?

    Anyway, gonna play with it some more. Table alignment first, then maybe some settings to see if it does need more pushed through of this particular filament for some reason.


    --Donnie
  6. beechum1

    beechum1 Grimace Soup

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    A ring that finally didn't collapse on itself.

    [​IMG]

    And a slightly more complicated part with some more fill.

    [​IMG]

    Tomorrow I'm going to enclose the chamber to see what happens next. Not bad results for 18 hours of tinkering. Tomorrow, more complicated parts and stuff.
  7. djb_rh

    djb_rh Been here awhile

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    Nice. Now get that thing running 24x7! I've got a lot of rolls of 3mm filament and no use for it since my printer takes 1.75mm. You need to buy it off me! :)


    --Donnie
  8. beechum1

    beechum1 Grimace Soup

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    Working on creating demand. I'm inclosing the chamber and need to make a few parts to make some hardware mount correctly. Which is exactly why I have one, to make parts I don't have and don't have on the shelf. I love this stuff. I can finally make half of the parts I've designed over the last few years.
  9. djb_rh

    djb_rh Been here awhile

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    And if you buy that filament from me, you can make those parts in nearly any color you want! ;)

    Seriously, glad it's working out for you. I did the enclosure on mine, but not sure how much it helped. That heated build platform is key, that's for sure.


    --Donnie
  10. beechum1

    beechum1 Grimace Soup

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    I enclosed the chamber. I used cardboard with aluminum for the two sides and a lexan flip open lid. Should have made it side open but here we are. I mounted an led to the lid also so I can see inside during a build. And then made a spacer for a knob for the lid. I'm 1200 miles from home and all my tools so instead of cutting the bolt, I made the spacer.

    [​IMG]

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  11. James Adams

    James Adams ɹǝsn uʍop ǝpᴉsdn Administrator

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    It's always neat seeing things make the transition from the screen to the physical world, in this case a quick prototype of an adapter to make sure all of the holes are in the right places before I refactor the model and add in all of the supports.

    [​IMG]

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  12. djb_rh

    djb_rh Been here awhile

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    Here's a blog entry on my first "from scratch" parts:

    http://www.carefreeway.com/2014/06/my-first-from-scratch-project-with-my.html

    Getting pretty decent and replicating "things" using Sketchup and some calipers. I mean my design is mostly original, but I had to replicate the GoPro mounting system as part of it. As well as an oddly curved interface between my new mounting and the boat...


    --Donnie
  13. James Adams

    James Adams ɹǝsn uʍop ǝpᴉsdn Administrator

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    Very neat! How is the mount secured to the kayak?
  14. djb_rh

    djb_rh Been here awhile

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    The kayak already had a molded in nutsert or similar that looks to be brass and is 10/32 threaded. It's recessed down in there, and attached to it was a little plastic hoop of sorts that the grab handle was attached to. Fortunately, that grab handle disassembles easily and you can untie one end.

    So I did that, and removed the hoop and it's screw. I then modeled my mount to the same curve as the bottom of the hoop. And then I bought a really long 10/32 bolt from McMaster. You can see the head of the bolt in that last pic.

    I have three of these boats and made three complete setups, but have only installed one. I'll do pics of the install when I do the next one and post those. That's kind of a hole in this story anyway.


    --Donnie
  15. garandman

    garandman Wandering Minstrel

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    You can insert threaded inserts into ABS pretty easily with a soldering iron.

    One of our AE's made a Vlog. It works with other materials but ABS is ideal.

    You can also design in holes to insert various kinds of rod stock to make the part stronger. It's usually better to make the hole little undersize it and then drill it out.
  16. teomannaskali

    teomannaskali Been here awhile

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    Thanks for that. Ordered some from ebay
  17. teomannaskali

    teomannaskali Been here awhile

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  18. SikDMAX

    SikDMAX Been here awhile

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    Anyone have input on Dremels new $1000 3d printer?
  19. garandman

    garandman Wandering Minstrel

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    It is based on a Chinese machine already on the market, the FlashForge Dreamer. It is aimed at ease of use over function.

    Make mag is going to do another comparison soon, I read.
  20. garandman

    garandman Wandering Minstrel

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    A marine waterproof toggle switch is nearly $20. A regular automotive toggle is $4-7. I needed weather protection for worklights on my tractor, so made a switch housing in 29 minutes. I'm going to put a hood over the toggle.
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