3D Printers. Who's got one?

Discussion in 'Shiny Things' started by dorkpunch, Jan 8, 2013.

  1. dorkpunch

    dorkpunch Oops...

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    FRUSTRATED. :dog

    Spent about 3 hours trying to figure out how to install the firmware / software / whatever... Nuthin. Still just sits there and wiggles. I'm lost at this point, hoping the support group will have something for me in the morning.

    Time for some enlightening Castle. Or Bones. Or New Girl. Or The Middle. (Yeah, I know...)
    #61
  2. garandman

    garandman Wandering Minstrel

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    We're looking at buying one of the maker-grade machines, then replacing all the parts with ones made on one of our big machines, so we can fulfill the RepRap vision.
    #62
  3. dorkpunch

    dorkpunch Oops...

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    Cool beans. Turned out to be just a stupid little thing- a bad USB cable. :huh

    One step closer! Will post some steps on how to get it to this point in a bit.

    <iframe src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/yRGN6f0Im30" allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" width="560"></iframe>
    #63
  4. dorkpunch

    dorkpunch Oops...

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    Alright... so here's the how to get drivers / firmware uploaded... After spending 3 frickin hours last night trying to get this to work only to discover a bad usb cable this morning. Not going to count that 3 hours in the overall time either.

    First step: Download the RUMBA drivers from here: http://reprap.org/wiki/File:RRD-RUMBA_USB_DRIVER.zip

    This part isn't required, but by switching this jumper you don't have to have the printer plugged into power- the RUMBA board is powered by the USB. You can just barely see the pin over the red wire, next to the x axis stepper driver. It's pretty clearly labeled- one side says stand alone, the other usb power. Switch it to usb power so you don't have to have the printer plugged in.

    [​IMG]

    Plug the usb cable in, and you should get a nice blue light on the board!

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    Time to install the drivers. Remember were you saved them to! If when you plugged in the usb you got a message saying unrecognized device, click it and choose either properties or update drivers. If you missed it, open the "Device Manager" in Windows, and you should see on the list something like this:

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    See the RUMBA xxxxxxxxxxx with the yellow mark under Other Devices? Right click and select either properties or update driver.

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    Go through the prompts and show it where you saved the drivers to install.

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    There it is! MAKE A NOTE OF WHICH COM IT SAYS IT'S USING!!!! In my case, it is set to COM 3.

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    Next step. Download and install the latest arduino IDE- here is the most current version at the moment: http://code.google.com/p/arduino/downloads/detail?name=arduino-1.0.3-windows.zip

    When you run it it looks like this:

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    Next, download and install the Repetier FIRMWARE, not the software (yet). BOTH are available here: http://www.repetier.com/download/

    When you unzip it it gives you a folder full of weird files like this:

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    Go back to the Arduino software, and using it, open the repetier.ino file in the firmware folder you just unzipped.

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    This is what you get. A buncha Greek. Or is that Geek? :lol3

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    We need to change a couple of settings. First, click on the Configuration.h tab. Scroll down and find the "#define MOTHERBOARD XXX" and change the number where the X's are (mine defaulted to 33) to 80.

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    Now scroll way down and find the Communication configuration section, and set the baudrate. I changed it from "#define BAUDRATE 250000" to "#define BAUDRATE 56000", cause it was recommended SOMEWHERE in the all the reading I did...

    [​IMG]

    Now for the big step. You have to go to the RUMBA wiki and copy the pins.h information. Find it here: http://reprap.org/wiki/RUMBA#RUMBA_Firmware_Pin_Configuration Copy the entire section under Rumba Pin Configuration.

    Now go back to the Arduino software, and click the pins.h tab. You may have to use the down arrow at the upper right hand corner of the screen to find it on the list.

    The pins.h seems to have a crap load of different option for different boards. I just scrolled down until I found the numerical order of things (remember, we set the motherboard to 80?) so the stuff I copied I pasted between option 70 and 331. :dunno

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    Are we TOTALLY LOST YET!? Cause I sure am! :lol3

    Gets a bit easier now. Once all those changes are made, with the printer hooked up just click upload. It'll take a minute or two but when it says its done, you're ready for the next step.

    Download and install the Repetier SOFTWARE. Open the software- looks somethin like this.

    [​IMG]

    Now we need to set the software up to communicate with the printer. Click configure, choose printer, and this menu pops up.

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    You will need to change the COM to the correct one (mine was COM 3) and change the baud rate to match whatever you set it to.

    Apply the settings, and you should be ready! Plug the printer in to power, and click connect. It should connect and the connect button changes to "disconnect. Scootch over to the manual control tab, and try moving axis around!!!






    May seem like a lot, but now that I've done it it really wasn't that bad. There is a TON of info on the Repetier website on installing and the hows and whys of printer software, available here: http://www.repetier.com/documentation/repetier-firmware/rf-installation/

    Careful with that link though, my brain almost exploded...

    The sad part? I still am going to have to modify the firmware to set up the thermistors (thermometers on the extruder and heated bed) AND figure out how to set it up so that BOTH z axis stepper motors work at the same time. Ug. Marching forward...

    Time Spent on this step: Lets call it 1 hr.
    Total time so far: 14 hrs. 15 min.
    #64
  5. dorkpunch

    dorkpunch Oops...

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    One other thing- the guys at Makers Tool Works have been awesome at helping me out with this... They have a webchat channel that anytime so far I've logged in, someone was right there to help me out. Great customer service! :clap
    #65
  6. Xeraux

    Xeraux Archvillain

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    :baldy


    You've got to be kidding.

    Glad that's all it was. :thumb

    Been eagerly following your updates.
    #66
  7. dorkpunch

    dorkpunch Oops...

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    Still dinkin around with the firmware... I can get it to move but its still not right. Might be another day or two, headed out for a family thing on the snowy roads right now. Hopefully next week.
    #67
  8. Tman66

    Tman66 Shawn's bro

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    We have one.

    We can make spiders out of Inconel 718.

    [​IMG]

    Have fun. :lol3
    #68
  9. dorkpunch

    dorkpunch Oops...

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    Fixed a bad connector, now I have heat! Top one is the extruder, bottom is the heated bed.


    [​IMG]
    #69
  10. troidus

    troidus Long timer

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    It sounds like it's saying "Uh oh" over and over. :lol3
    #70
  11. dorkpunch

    dorkpunch Oops...

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    suhWEET!!!

    <iframe src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/3AQaAW8_yak" allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" width="560"></iframe>

    The software even draws it out for you while it goes. Dry run successful!

    [​IMG]
    #71
  12. dorkpunch

    dorkpunch Oops...

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    BAM.

    <iframe src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/thajM-OAIlg" allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" width="560"></iframe>

    :clap:clap:clap

    :lol3
    #72
  13. dorkpunch

    dorkpunch Oops...

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    In progress.

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    Finished and cooling.

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    The real first print on the left... had the nozzle too close to the glass. Second one turned out pretty good!

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    Looonnng ways to go still, but at least its functional!
    #73
  14. garandman

    garandman Wandering Minstrel

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    Great work.

    I find a lot of useful "stuff" on grabcad.
    #74
  15. dorkpunch

    dorkpunch Oops...

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    Workin some bugs out...

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    Some rough math means each of them key chains cost about $250. :lol3 Cost will drop substantially the more parts I make.

    Still lots to do- need to level the bed, figure out limit switches, figure out why after about 5 minutes of printing it suddenly goes from a normal feedrate to almost non-existant... :eek1
    #75
  16. dorkpunch

    dorkpunch Oops...

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    The *brrrrrrrp-bbbbrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrppppp* of the printer sure draws a crowd...

    [​IMG]
    #76
  17. nulluser

    nulluser Been here awhile

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    I just finished mine, used an R1 extruder, the rest is custom.

    The print quality is decent.

    Software stack is Solidworks -> STL -> Netfabb to clean up the STL -> Slic3r -> Gcode -> Mach3. Non heated bed.


    [​IMG]

    Here was my first test part. They got better but I don't have any images. This is really small, around 1".

    [​IMG]
    #77
  18. dorkpunch

    dorkpunch Oops...

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    Took a break last night to go chase a ball up and down a court, and tonight to teach a community class... But still playing around a bit. Trying to trouble shoot some weird issues, so here are some bits of melted plastic!

    Experimenting with two different programs... Left does poor quality but finishes the print, right does great quality but randomly freezes part way through.

    [​IMG]

    Cups.

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    Keychains.

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    And just for the fun of it, a glider.

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    #78
  19. dorkpunch

    dorkpunch Oops...

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    nulluser- pretty cool! Print quality looks great compared to what I'm getting so far... Did you design the printer?
    #79
  20. nulluser

    nulluser Been here awhile

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    Your print quality is pretty good. The last little bit takes most of the effort.

    Not too much design going on, I had some linear stages from another project, and just bolted it all together with 80/20. All long as it can position in 3D, and is fairly rigid, it will work fine.

    I forgot to mention I used a Sanguinololu board for the temperature control. I used 4 cheap stepper drivers from amazon, and just run them off the parallel port.

    If you don't know already, you can download a ton of stuff from http://www.thingiverse.com/ I recommend printing some calibration objects to make sure the extrusion settings are ok. It's really important.

    The blue painter's tape works good provided the bed is good and level. A dial indicator clamped to the head can be used to get it perfect. You can shim with scraps of paper if there are no bed adjustments.

    A solid 24V power supply also helps when you want to start cranking the speed up. This unit is pretty damn fast even with my small steppers, they are setup for 75 inches/minute. With a 20% infill it can make basic small parts in decent time, like 10 or 15 minutes.

    If you are having trouble getting the first layer to stick, rubbing a little 'goof off' works magic. It kind of melts the plastic a little and makes it stick like crazy. Don't touch the build platform after cleaning, the skin oil sometimes causes the print to lose grip, which will warp the part.


    Here is some reference:

    http://richrap.blogspot.com/2012/01/slic3r-is-nicer-part-1-settings-and.html
    http://richrap.blogspot.com/2012/01/slic3r-is-nicer-part-2-filament-and.html
    http://richrap.blogspot.com/2012/01/slic3r-is-nicer-part-3-how-low-can-you.html


    And here is a steam turbine I did with it:

    http://www.junklet.net/test/turbine4.jpg
    http://www.junklet.net/test/turbinefront.jpg
    http://www.junklet.net/test/turbinerear.jpg
    #80