4-5k hesitation

Discussion in 'Crazy-Awesome almost Dakar racers (950/990cc)' started by grinns, Nov 17, 2010.

  1. grinns

    grinns Semper Fi

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    The bike has had a 4-5k hesitation off and on riding back from houston, but now it has it perminently.

    Here is what I have done so far:
    valves adjusted
    sas removed
    new airfilter/prefilter
    new fuel filter
    new 02 sensors (one was bad found with tuneECU)
    reloaded newer stock map and reset settings + 15 minute idle

    What I plan to do:
    tps sensor adjustment (is this possible?)
    balance throttle bodies (they measure off a little in tuneECU)

    Right now after new o2 sensors and reset its running amazing, but the hesitation is still there. It feels like the injectors shut off because it thinks the throttle is closed.

    SUMMARY AND FIX IS ON PAGE 3
    #1
  2. Nut Clutch

    Nut Clutch was Steve Lavigne

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    Two things I would recommend for that:

    1. Disable the EPC either by removing the pins in the harness for the gear position sensor, or disable it in the map.

    2. Remove the secondary throttle plates in the throttle bodies.

    You will see the largest difference by removing the secondary throttle plates. You also could change the mapping for the secondary throttle in TuneECU.
    #2
  3. Spark01

    Spark01 V-Twin

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    Yes you can adjust the TPS
    the voltage should be rond 0.6-0.7V when closed en 3.6V when fully opend. it's in the manual

    but you should do this after you balanced the throttle bodies.

    Maybe also check if there isn't any thing loose on the throttle bodies
    #3
  4. wee tee cee

    wee tee cee Been here awhile

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    Try removing the secondary butterflies,I had a similar lag at that rev range which this resolved.
    #4
  5. grinns

    grinns Semper Fi

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    After doing some more reading when its doing this hesitation it should be using the map based on the Map sensor (L table). It shouldn't switch unless its above 67% tp at this rpm range according to my stock map.

    I looked at the secondary positions and it starts changing a little more rapidly at this rpm.

    My next test would be to datalog or view this info when the hesitation happens.

    If anyone knows anything interesting as this is the first time I am diving all the way in fuel injection please yell.
    #5
  6. grinns

    grinns Semper Fi

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    Throttle boddies are like 70 hPa different at idle. Need to find out that issue. The sensors are only off by 1 when bike is not running.
    #6
  7. grinns

    grinns Semper Fi

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    It's around 50-70 hPa off all rpms while running. Doing some more thinking...
    #7
  8. grinns

    grinns Semper Fi

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    I am going to swap the sensors and see if it follows.
    #8
  9. grinns

    grinns Semper Fi

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    Didn't follow, so I synced the throttle bodies. They indicate the same now, but idle went up and you can see the TPS is off now.

    Tps adjustment to follow after I make an allen key a little shorter and bent. :evil
    #9
  10. cyborg

    cyborg Potius Sero Quam Numquam

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    :lurk
    #10
  11. cyborg

    cyborg Potius Sero Quam Numquam

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    If you have Tubeboy or TuneECU you can program the secondary butterflies to be open all the time without having to remove them. Very handy to be able to go back and forth quickly to figure out if it really helps or not.
    #11
  12. Dusty

    Dusty Long timer

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    Don't forget to take some snapshots for us NooB's..:ear

    edit: found some pics on the duke site.





    :lurk
    #12
  13. Dusty

    Dusty Long timer

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    Is this something that needs looking at... Linky

    [​IMG]
    #13
  14. grinns

    grinns Semper Fi

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    #14
  15. grinns

    grinns Semper Fi

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  16. grinns

    grinns Semper Fi

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    Quote from Tahoeacr:

    http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=402142&page=2

    Not needed unless you screw it up. There should be a little play in the throttle grip at idle. Left or right. If you take the play out, the throttle valves can sit a little off of fully closed throwing off the tps.

    To adjust the tps the dealer tool is not needed. You must make sure that the idle control motor is not effecting the throttle valves. At idle, with a warm engine you should get approx .6 volts from the signal wire. Full throttle engine off ignition on should be approx 3.8 volts.

    Black is ground
    Blue is 5 volt supply
    Yellow/White is signal cable

    2nd tps should be approx. 1.0 volt at closed and approx 4.3 volt at full throttle with engine off ignition on.

    Black is ground
    Blue is 5 volt supply
    Green/Red is signal

    Almost forgot, the tps's are held on with one screw. The tps case is slotted so you can move it while reading your volt meter.

    If there out of range the ecu goes in to a Emergency operation program. Still rideable.
    #16
  17. grinns

    grinns Semper Fi

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    I think this may be my problem, because I synced the throttle bodies and it was pretty far off. The TPS was close so I went for a ride and gdam was it smooth. You could feel the transition to tps sensors, from map sensors, but it was minor. My problem was where the engine felt like it was stalling.

    Adjusting tps to spec and going for anouther ride after I reset tps.
    #17
  18. Dusty

    Dusty Long timer

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    Right on!

    Sounds like a productive Sunday.

    My answering machine only got part of your message.
    #18
  19. grinns

    grinns Semper Fi

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    Ah, I am waiting for it to cool down. Probably post more after 8pm. I had to make a special wrench.
    #19
  20. grinns

    grinns Semper Fi

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    I was getting .57 when it was warm. Still in tolerance, but the stall came back. I am going to turn it up a little bit so its at .60-.63. Before fusing with it it was .60 after throttle balance it was .67 when I test road it.

    What I think is happening is the rpms get to 5k ish where if the throttle is 0 the fuel injection is cut off. The sensors think its really close to zero because I am slowly creaping up and cutting off the fuel injectors, even though I am excelerating slowly.
    #20