/5 Ignition Switch Removal

Discussion in 'Airheads' started by Donny1973, Nov 11, 2013.

  1. Donny1973

    Donny1973 Been here awhile

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    I'm getting ready to send my stuff out for paint and powdercoating on the /5 cafe project. Got the harness and the last of the bits removed from the frame today. How do I remove the ignition switch from the headlight shell? I've got new chrome and outer pieces but the circuit board and switch are good, so I don't want to damage them taking them out. I need to send the shell to the painter with the rest of the tins.
    [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]
    #1
  2. Big Bamboo

    Big Bamboo Aircooled & Sunbaked

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    One method I've used is to pry the back two tabs up to allow you pull the switch plate up and bend the front two tabs slightly. Then I use pliers with a bent tip to pry those up as well. Note: the key mechanism is several spring loaded pieces that will fall out when you remove the switch plate. When re-installing, I used a screw clamp to hold everything tightly together while bending the tabs back down.
    #2
  3. Donny1973

    Donny1973 Been here awhile

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    Thanks Big Bamboo. You mean pry the rear tabs up from inside the shell, correct? I can see and access the two front tabs (closest to the headlight opening) but I can't see how to access the rear tabs. They appear to be under the connection plate.
    #3
  4. Big Bamboo

    Big Bamboo Aircooled & Sunbaked

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    All four tabs go though the switch plate, like the four corners of a square, and they are all bent towards the center of the plate. Is it possible that you are missing the back two? You can see the four slots in this photo: [​IMG]
    #4
  5. Pokie

    Pokie Just plain Pokie.

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    I usually use a small screwdriver to bend the tabs as little as possible to get the switch plate out. If you straighten the tabs too much, they will likely brake when you try to re-fit the ignition plate. Keep track of all the ignition and switch pieces when you take it all out. They will all have to be cleaned, inspected and lubed before putting them back. Check the chrome cylinder that the key actually slides down into, the slot in the top of the cylinder that the key fits into, to switch the lights, gets really badly worn.

    When getting ready to re-fit the ignition plate, I anneal the tabs to try and stop them from braking. Sometimes the annealing process will damage the paint, so be careful.

    I put the black slide and the chrome piece on first, holding the whole works upside down in my lap. I usually push the tabs down with a hand held punch or drift. I then assemble all the parts of the ignition and switch and fit the ignition plate on top. I hold the whole works down with my fingers while bending the tabs over. I usually don't press the tabs all the way down, I'll only press them down enough to stop everything from moving or wiggling and that's all. The closer you get to a full 90 degrees, the bigger the chance of them braking.

    The most common way to brake the black plastic slide is to put the key in backwards. The tab on the back side of the key (that switches the lights)will contact the slide and brake it.
    #5
  6. Donny1973

    Donny1973 Been here awhile

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    Thanks for the info. I think I was confused by symantics. By "switch plate" I believe you are referring to the terminal board part that Big Bamboo pictured in his post. I was looking at the chrome bezel on the outside of the bucket thinking that had to come off first. I could see the tabs that hold it in place. I'll take another look at the assembly tomorrow. It all has to come out. I think I've got it now. So there should be four tabs holding the board down as well?
    #6
  7. Big Bamboo

    Big Bamboo Aircooled & Sunbaked

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    Yep, terminal board, switch board; same thing. I assumed you were starting from the inside, because that's how it's done. Re-read my description with that in mind. You will most likely drop the pieces of the key mechanism (oops, I mean "ignition lock assembly" :D), don't worry, it's fairly self explanatory how it goes together once you see everything. I also disassemble it over a towel on the bench. Mostly to keep from scratching the paint, but it also keeps small parts from bouncing off to parts unknown. :deal here's an idea of how they go together, you'll need to disassemble the brass barrel shaped thing to clean and oil it and the ball bearings inside[​IMG]
    #7
  8. tlub

    tlub Been here awhile

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    One trick I have heard of to not break those tabs is to anneal them before bending. Some folks use a big soldering iron, but the temp is so-so. I have heard of folks hooking up a positive lead to the tab, with the shell grounded, and letting it just glow dull red. Then you can bend the tab and not break it. That tip is in the Burlington Cycle Works /2 manual, I think.
    #8