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Discussion in 'Epic Rides' started by Hektoglider, Jul 13, 2008.
I've converted the file to GPX format, and tried it in Mapsource.
Should be ok now. Here it is:
Hey Nofate, I rode through Chapleau yesterday, took backroads up from wawa through missinabie, gassed up at Racine lake and the out esher healy rd and back down 101 . We'll have to meet up next time I'm through.
end of Hijack sorry Kari
This is a great RR, Hektoglider. I was lucky enough to have 100% perfect weather all the way down the Cassiar. I called in at Boya Lake and looked for you, but I figured I was a few days behind you because I spent some time in Whitehorse after the D2D. I also did Telegraph Creek - pretty cool place, huh?
Keep it up bud, I'm interested to see what you got up to next! Oh, and in response to your question by email, I'm in Victoria B.C. now. Likely will be for a few weeks, actually.
Ok so its wet and chilly so I don't take many photos while the bike is moving.I roll down to the turnoff for Telegraph Creek and I hear this is a nice ride down into there.The sign says beware to RV's extreme grades/corners etc.The first 70 km's seems to be a typical twisty bush road with some long straights thrown in too. Then the beware RV'ers signs re-appear and the road begins to deliver.I popped a few photos here and there but did not do a photo documentary on the entire thing.The town at the end was not particularly interesting, and I saw some great campsites along the way in.The attraction seemed to be the ride in and not the destination.
Of the 110 km side trip into there, about 40km of it is really nice area to ride through.The rest is "ok" but the road was being watered down and my bike got really dirty coming out of there.I washed it at the gas station when I spotted a water hose nearby.The guy in Telegraph Creek told me the gas station won't be open til later in the afternoon.I told him it's ok, I'm on a KLR.
The luxury of time allows the side trips.Next was Stewart BC as recommended by someone at D2D.I am glad I went here, it was really worth it.I felt like I was in the alps or something.I passed Bear Glacier going down hill into the town.Nice campground but the mosquitos were bad.
Some pics from the Cassier and on the side trip into Stewart.
It was hard to watch the road while gawking up at the mountains and the waterfalls streaming down from above.The ride into Stewart was really great, and the town itself is a cool place to stop and spend the night.I splurged and had dinner at some place that featured a model A car inside the dining area.
I met a couple from Europe who where doing some riding on Transalps.They had done James Bay road already and now where going up north to ride the Arctic stuff.
I ride to Prince Rupert from Stewart in one easy go.The nice comfy seat and extended cruising range, plus ample power makes the run no problem.(ha) ...,The idea is to load up on some supplies and catch the morning boat over to the archipeligo, yea...Haida Gwaii. I hear things are laid back, on the Island, mon.I camp out nearby at a decent campground.Cost $20.
The Norwegian Star is docked.People from all over the globe were in town.
I find out the times for the ferry to Queen Charlotte Islands and the price is a hunderd bucks for me and the bike.Advanced reservations required, but bikes usually can get on.The lady said she does'nt know of an instance when a bike was not fit on board.I sail across in the morning.
The ultimate side trip.I tie down the bike in the hold, and the boat will not depart for another hour.I grab my tent and bring it up on deck to dry out.The dew was extremely heavy this morning but a good breeze on the deck allows me to dry my tent out.I had it tied to the railing for a while up there.I re-fold it up and bring it back down to the bike and at 11am we are off.
The white peaks in the above photo are where the Cassier 37 runs north/south.Six or seven hours later we arrive in Skidegate.
I ride into Queen Charlotte city and the tourist info place is open.I found out a few things about the Islands and grabbed some pamphlets with maps in them.I also got a tide table, this would come in handy later.It was really foggy and kinda drizzling, getting late in the day.i rode north on the Yellowhead hwy and began looking for a good spot to sleep tonight.Not far up the hwy I pulled into a side road and set up my tent beside the ocean.
The next morning is damp again.I hear it rains a lot in the Charlottes.I have oatmeal, coffee and tea.I open a can of peaches to smarten up the instant oatmeal.Life is good.The stove is acting up so I take the pump apart and apply some oil to the piston rubber.That makes it better.
I ride only a short ways and find a much better campsite that has a lookout tower with a nicely made staircase.I make a mental note of it for later....There is also a pole building for campers to get out of inclement weather and do some cooking.
The weather begins to clear...
amazing ride report, i hope sometime soon i came take a trip as long and spectacular as yours. great job!
I ride north on 16 and the poor weather breaks and the sun comes out. The ride up from Skidegate to Tlell is awesome with the ocean on the right.
I roll onwards to Port Clements, heading inland for a ways.
I stop at the museum chatting it up with the locals who seem a lot friendlier here on the Island than on the mainland. Everybody IS laid back and not in a rush, so I immediately do likewise and chat as long as the conversation will carry itself. Chatting up with the locals is kind of like fishing in a way....you never know whats going to come of it.
The Island has a great logging history and its still going on over on the other side of the Island.
I stop in at the tourist info center in Masset on my way to the northern end of Graham Island. I am at mile 0 of the Yellowhead Highway, and I walk into the small tourist info building. There is an older man there and I am guessing he is a Haida native, I tell him I want to go up onto the beach up there and relax for the weekend, does he know any good spots. I hear you can ride on the beach at low tide.
Thats right he says you can zoom up there 5 or 7 kms past the campground and find great places to camp and plenty of driftwood for firewood. In fact go and use the cabin. Nobody really uses it, it has a woodstove and some bunks. I ask him if its ok and he re-assures me that they only really use it for some school class trips from time to time.
Wow! I consult the tide table and see the low tide is occurring right now. I gotta get going. I ride north along the road and get to the campground. Thats Tow Hill I am approaching.
I stop there to fill up my solar shower at the water spigot. As I am strapping it on the back of the bike some other campers engage in small talk and I reply that I am heading up to the cottage for the weekend.
I ride around the backside of Tow Hill on the road and the onto the beach.
The beach is very hard and some high speeds are possible. This is the type of stuff I wanna do while on the Islands
.yea!(Tow Hill visible way back there)
I stop at the shipwreck and get a few photos…how cool! the quad tracks are from the people at the campgrounds who run the beach exploring.
I follow the simple directions the elder gave me and find the cabin. Not knowing what to expect, I am very satisfied upon opening the door, a nice stove, tables and 4 big bunks. All the windows were intact. The structure was built in the traditional longhouse style with the two large poles on either side of the door supporting the other two long poles that hold the roof up. There’s even some paper plates and candles there.
The sun is out, my shower is heating up, I got lots of food and water. This is great, I tune in my small am/fm radio and get a station. I can relax here and plot my trip for the rest of the way through BC as none of it had really been planned very well. I can go beachcombing, gathering firewood, and then get back off the beach to my cabin where I am sheltered from the wind, and hide out for a few days. I plan on organizing all my gear and taking a decent break from traveling. I still can’t believe it. That’s what I mean by talking to the locals and you never know what will come of it.
The tide will come in and make riding on the beach difficult, my bike is safely parked on the deck. The day turns to night, and I sleep really well. The following day I take a ride further up the beach and I know the low tide was many hours ago but decide to do it. I ride and the hard sand turns to loose gravelly stuff the further I go. The far end of Rose Spit is off limits to motorized travel. That’s Tow Hill in the distance.
I am kinda reluctant to leave my belongings in the cabin and ride the bike very far, so I head back. I do some firewood gathering and then decide to make a water run to the campground and while in that area do a hike up to the top of Tow Hill.
I get back to the cabin and am deciding what to have for supper when suddenly two Haida people show up……..
The Haida locals call out as they approach the cabin. I was wondering what will take place next. They ask if there is room in the cabin and I reply yes!
They bring in some blankets and their supplies and we exchange greetings. They are from a nearby town and are up here to dig for razor clams. They say that the tide will be perfect for it at 5 in the morning. I open a can of beans, a can of mushrooms that was on the shelf from when I arrived and a can of click. From this we are all able to have a light supper and the Haida tell me myth and mythology tails from there local legends .It was a great evening listening to these two talking and getting the local angle on things.
In the morning at 5 they get up and go digging. I have coffee and then walk out onto the beach and realize they traveled far up the beach to where the best harvest is. I missed out on the dig, but am getting an early start on my day. I take my time and load all my stuff on the KLR, and am about ready to go when the diggers get back and tell me they had a successful morning and they are gonna have a nap while they let the clams soak for a few hours.
I head into Masset and tour around a bit and then ride down to Port Clements. The gas station has a sign, sorry no fuel. I have no choice, I am going to the backside of the Island on the dirt roads to Rennel Sound, and I figure I can do it on the fuel I got.
Hitch Hikers Chair
No pics from the ride down there, but its a cool dirt road going through the logging country and theres a steep hill that drops down near the end.
I can't beleive the great campsites.Table, firewood and great location.
Mountain stream entering the ocean(fresh water)
Low tide photo while fishing saltwater species
Solar shower heating up in the sun....
Life is good.
I had originally planned on renting a kayak and using it to get to the backside of the Island, but after finding out I could ride there I cancelled out on the kayak.There was active logging going on and the trucks would not have to ascend the steep hill, because the only drive as far as the landing for the barge.
I cast and get a bass-like fish almost every time. Thats the cool sweater with the G'wichin logo from the yardsale....
Hard to believe I can camp at such nice sites for free!
I travel down the backroads towards Queen Charlotte city, and have been going easy on the throttle the whole time on QCI. I hit reserve at 385km and realise that I will make it to the next gas station.I ride up to Skidegate, the only station open on Canada Day.I go past the Haida Center....
I take the ferry for $16 over to Moresby Island to explore over there.
I head for Gray Bay,after getting onto land again at Sandspit.The back roads are great and I find another nice campground, no big signs asking for $$ just a great beach and a shelter.After spending 2 nights at the North Beach Cabin I am getting itching to ride and only travel less than 100km a day while on the Islands. I decide to ferry back to mainland BC tommorrow night. I will spend Canada day here at Gray Bay.
The next day I ride the backroads out to Moresby Camp where the kayak excursions depart for Gwaii Hanas.
Catching fish at the dock during a break from riding.....
checking out the backroads on Moresby Island
Dude, that is soooo cool!
I ride back to the Sandspit ferry and catch a ride back to Graham Island.The big ferry back to the mainland leaves at 11:00 pm so I have time before it leaves to ride a bit.
I ride up 16 again and stop at Balance Rock.
I go up to the Jungle Beach tower for a bit,then decide to take a break from eating campstove food and hit a nice place in town and have Salmon and Halibut.
Moss on Car
I figure I may as well eat a big supper, I plan on sleeping on the overnight boat ride which will arrive in Prince Rupert at 7oam.
THe Charlottes has been an incredible place, no fastfood chain places, no big city stuff, just cool island laid back exploring....mucho bueno!
next: the mainland BC and cruisin cheap on the KLR!
really enjoying your report - great photos
Thank you for this report. Amazing travels done with true KLR style and integrity-
Very nice, Kari.
More places for me to look for the next time I'm up there.