640 Adv / CS Sprocket / Loctite ?

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by nyc_gs, Sep 17, 2006.

  1. nyc_gs

    nyc_gs Lurker

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    I'm replacing the cs sprocket on my 640 Adventure tonight and I have one very simple question I need answered...

    The manual calls for Loctite 243 to be used, however, I was unable to find 243. I found 242 and I also have some 245, but no 243.

    Will the 242 be good enough?

    Forgive my Loctite ignorance...I am not totally sure what the difference between the 242 and 243 is. Seems the 243 is more 'oil resistant' ??

    I did the requisite searching and found a few people with similar questions, however, they were for shocks and such, nothing near the CS. :(

    Any help would be greatly appreciated.

    Thanks!

    -- Jason
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  2. 2whlrcr

    2whlrcr gooligan

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    I've used blue Loctite with no problems. Can't remember the number?
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  3. nyc_gs

    nyc_gs Lurker

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    The 242 and 245 I have are both blue. I believe the 243 is blue as well.

    I'm assuming that red is not what would be wanted for this particular application...but I am certainly no expert with loctite...hence my asking. :)

    -- Jason
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  4. BlackTalon

    BlackTalon KTM

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    Hi Jason, concrats on your new bike. I just replaced my front sprocket seal and I used 242 with no problems. 242 is a lock and seal . I have it left over from making a fuel cell and I have been useing it as regular locktite with no problems.

    Later, Joe
    #4
  5. nyc_gs

    nyc_gs Lurker

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    Joe...thanks much man. I was hoping someone could tell me that. :)

    The ride you guys had in Idaho looks awesome. I'm really jealous!

    Thanks again!

    -- Jason
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  6. meat popsicle

    meat popsicle Ignostic

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    I would strongly recommend that you replace the CS sprocket bolt and it's spring washer when replacing the CS sprocket - consider it a consumable part. Although you might get away with reusing them, for the price it is not worth the risk. They are sold together:

    CS sprocket bolt and spring washer P/N 590.33.034.044 $4.25

    Discussion linked HERE.
    #6
  7. nyc_gs

    nyc_gs Lurker

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    Meat...

    Thanks...I have read that other posting about 100 times already to make sure I knew what I was getting into. :)

    I actually ended up not replacing the sprocket as I decided to wait for the parts you mentioned.

    I did take the cover off last night with plans to replace it, however, it seems there is a tabbed washer of some sort behind the nut. One side folded over to help prevent the nut from backing off. Looks like I need a replacement for that washer before I can even think of taking that thing apart.

    It looks like the tab is only possible on one side of the nut...does that make sense?

    I was expecting to be able to re-use the nut/etc as the bike is only 3 weeks old with 600 miles on it...

    It is going to the dealer tomorrow for it's 600 mile service, so I may just have them do it while it's there...hate to pay to have someone else do this type of thing though. I even went out and bought a torque wrench just for this!

    Thanks for the pointer though...the lc4 index is awesome, one of my favorite places on this site since buying my new 640. :)

    -- Jason
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  8. Yukoner

    Yukoner Motorcycle Addict

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    For your peace of mind I recommend cutting a hole through the cover and marking a paint line on the nut and shaft.
    You may be reluctant to take a hole-saw to your new bike but you can clean up the hole nicely with sandpaper.
    #8
  9. meat popsicle

    meat popsicle Ignostic

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    Ah, so you were on top of this. I am not sure what version of the CS bolt/washer your model year has; sounds like the older one that folks talk about so I am surprised to hear it is on your almost new bike.

    That said, why do you have to REPLACE the sprocket after only 600 miles?!? I could imagine you might want to exchange for a different tooth count - but is the stock CS sprocket already fried? :ear If you are only exchanging the sprocket then I would expect you to be able to reuse the bolt/spring washer combo (w/loctite) for a spell, but I have no idea about the tabbed washer. BTW, did you see the loctite thread in the index?

    You can still do the drivetrain work, just have the dealer order the parts for you. Speaking of which, you don't want to do the valve adjustment/oil change/general inspection? It is challenging, but not impossible for those with decent mechanical aptitude and wrench experience.
    #9
  10. nyc_gs

    nyc_gs Lurker

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    Not sure...I have tried to find a photo of what it looks like but have not yet found one. Perhaps I'll go take a photo of it tonight and post it. The bike is an '06 that I purchased new about 4 weeks ago.

    I'm just replacing the 16t sprocket with a 15t sprocket. :)

    I found a few about loctite...but I'll go and check the index again.

    The biggest challenge for me is that I live in NYC. It's a bit hard to pull all that stuff apart in the basement of the garage I'm in. :(

    Plus...doesn't KTM void your warranty if you do this stuff yourself during the warranty period? I thought I read something about that in my manual.

    -- Jason
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  11. meat popsicle

    meat popsicle Ignostic

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    J,

    I am not familiar with the tabbed CS bolt washer - hopefully someone with experiece will speak up. But for the price, I would just get another one: peace of mind is worth more than $5.

    KTM cannot void your warranty due to limitations imposed by the Magnuson-Moss Act. They can't tell you where to maintain your bike. Just search for it here in Thumpers and on Google; it's come up before. Pretty sure you can even maintain the bike yourself and make warranty claims provided you keep adequate records of your work.
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  12. nyc_gs

    nyc_gs Lurker

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    Totally agree. I'll try to get a picture of it tonight so you can see what I'm talking about.

    Wow. Excellent. I was not aware of the Magnuson-Moss Act. That is very good to know. Thanks much!

    -- Jason
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  13. techieguy

    techieguy Lost in the woods

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    I have the new style lock washer. I reused it since after I torqued the nut, the flat on the nut was on a unused portion of the lock washer so there would be no residual stress from being used before. If the flat had lined up with the "used" portion, I would have removed the nut, rotated the lock washer and torqued again.

    Techieguy
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  14. nyc_gs

    nyc_gs Lurker

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    So, basically, flatten the washer out, remove the nut and washer then replace them after putting the new sprocket on, yeah? Folding down a different side of the washer?

    I always get a bit nervous working with engine related stuff on my bike...so I want to make sure I do this as it should be done.

    Thanks...

    -- Jason
    #14
  15. PackMule

    PackMule love what you do Super Moderator

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    Aw, man. This just came up last week, but I can't remember which thread it was in.

    FOUND IT. Check this thread, starting specifically with post #36. :thumb
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  16. dirty_sanchez

    dirty_sanchez Dirty_Sanchez

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    NYC GS- I'm Adventure Rider's resident Loctite Factory Rep working out of south Louisiana.

    243 is an oil tolerant medium strength blue threadlocker. When I say "Oil Tolerant" I'm not talking about the material's ability to stand up to oily environments when inservice. Any cured threadlocker does this, so there's still nothing special about it. When Loctite says 243 is "Oil Tolerant" we are referring to the materials ability to work and cure properly on "As Received" threaded fasteners that are already lightly oiled to prevent rust. 243 isn't as picky when used on slightly oily threaded fasteners as 242, 248, or 2440.

    I don't know about everyone else, but I won't paint car with oily handprints on it because surface prep is king. Most any of us would remove all surface contaminates before we paint a car or reinstall a bolt if we're working in our shop.

    In short, always clean and degrease fasteners before reassy.-especially if we're using a threadlocker. Use 242, 243, 248 (the Stick), or 2440 (Primerless). They'll all do the job-each with a different twist.

    Dirty
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  17. nyc_gs

    nyc_gs Lurker

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    Sweet. That is excellent information and I really appreciate it.

    I can feel a little better about the 242 now!

    THANKS!

    -- Jason
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  18. meat popsicle

    meat popsicle Ignostic

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    Good job PackMule,

    Here is another.
    #18
  19. techieguy

    techieguy Lost in the woods

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    Yep, you don't want to re use the same portion of the lock washer since it has been stressed from use. By rotating the lock washer you use a different, unused portion of the lock washer.

    Techie.
    #19
  20. PackMule

    PackMule love what you do Super Moderator

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    Just tryin' to give somethin' back, brutha. :feelgood :D



    From the discussion last week, I had errantly assumed that the two styles of bolt/washer were interchangable. Looking at the schematic again, though, it's clear that it's dependant on whether ones countershaft is threaded internally (Version 1) or externally (Version 2, with the tabbed washer).

    I'll be swapping for a 15T as soon as I put a parts order in, so I suppose I ought to check which style I have and add the requisite bits to the tally, eh? :nod


    Perhaps you could add a note about this to the chain/sprockets index article?
    #20