640 adventure doing 50% commute ??

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by grumpyman, Jul 3, 2013.

  1. grumpyman

    grumpyman Adventurer

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    if i use this 640 adv to commute 50-60% of the time 12-18 miles am i going to be ok on motor wear as long as i let it warm up fully before taking off??
    i take it out on longer rides when i can get some buds together but am i killing it with the commute into san francisco???? if this has been answered before please tell me to f%$k off but point to the appropriate thread if you can.
    thanx
    #1
  2. grumpyman

    grumpyman Adventurer

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    any ideas???
    i love this bike
    #2
  3. mountaincadre

    mountaincadre Been here awhile

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    Let it warm up first, they don't take long(mine takes about 3 mins to get to 3 bars) if you do you shouldn't do any damage. There is a school of though as well that says stand it up right until at least until one bar is showing(again I do this and it takes less than a minute).
    #3
  4. 2 SPOT

    2 SPOT wannabe

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    i would say F#&K off and ask if you would think the same about a klr or dr:D its an lc4 engine, its made to be used like that, dont worry bout it.
    #4
  5. mountaincadre

    mountaincadre Been here awhile

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    No but that's because they're shite:eek1 and I would expect them to break down.
    que klr/lc4/dr/xt bunfight:wings
    #5
  6. grumpyman

    grumpyman Adventurer

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    just let it warm up and went
    #6
  7. Sparrowhawk

    Sparrowhawk Long timer

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    You have not gotten a very good response so far. Don't worry about warming it up unless you hop on the highway in the first 3 miles. Just start it and ride easy for the first few miles. Riding 18 miles or so each way gives the engine plenty of time to get to temperature.

    The LC4 engine is not some kind of prissy race tool. It has the oil capacity and design for the long run. I have over 30, 000 miles on mine with only regular maintenance and the normal fixes (water pump, etc). It's never let me down and I expect another 20, 000 before I get into it in a big way. Don't worry and enjoy your bike.

    Check out the 640 LC4 thread. Lots of good information there.
    Cheers.

    Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2
    #7
  8. Kawidad

    Kawidad Long timer

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    :jack



    Do you like your fillings? :amazon





    :hide
    #8
  9. grumpyman

    grumpyman Adventurer

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    and then on to sf ca at 75+ w/ normal gearing so 5000 -5500 rpm
    i usually let it warm up till i have to choke it down
    i will just delay the helmet /glove ritual and wait another min or so
    scored a set of held namibs off cjdesigns and love them

    thanx for the replies i was not sure what i was going to get off such a mixed forum
    #9
  10. Sparrowhawk

    Sparrowhawk Long timer

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    Assuming you are new. Go to the bike specific thread and select LC4 640. The mind trust is very deep here. Welcome to the Borg.

    Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2
    #10
  11. Mat

    Mat Long timer

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    Listen to the hawk. Just take it somewhat easy for the first few miles until it has been rolling a few minutes on 4 bars, and don't worry too much about the engine. I mistreat mine by commuting in Winter where it actually never gets completely warm, except on joy rides. It is still in top shape.

    Hereabouts it is illegal to let cars or bikes just idle for nothing (for example to warm up), and that is a good thing. There is really no point for a halfway modern engine to be warmed up idling, except if you plan to blast off to redline right at the start. Life isn't a race most times. Plus it tends to piss off the neighbors, apart from the needless pollution.
    #11
  12. bmwktmbill

    bmwktmbill Traveler

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    More important than short runs is running it at proper rpm's.

    Don't lug the engine!!

    Run it consistently above 4K rpm's once underway and it will be happy.
    b
    #12
  13. 2 SPOT

    2 SPOT wannabe

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    lot of opinions about it,,, but the only real important thing to take away, and it goes for any engine, is achieving engine temp for a long enough duration to burn off the condensation that forms when you start a cold engine, otherwise you start getting into the kinds of problems associated with water in oil.

    keep in mind that long idle times are no good for an engine either, you'll have cilynder wash problems, unburnt fuel in the oil, excessive carbon build up ect.

    you only need to idle long enough to build oil pressure but then theres that nagging problem of putting the engine under load while its still cold.

    i think your best bet is to sell the bike and commute in a car, nobody seems to be worried about the same damage that occurs to cars under the same circumstances. :D

    multi cylinders and fuel injection do a better job of hiding little wear problems than singles, but trust me, i see the same wear day in and day out no matter what the engine.

    my advise is simple, start the bike and let it idle just long enough to put on your helmet and gloves, take it conservative to the hiway and that first on ramp, then your golden , warmed up and ready to giver hell. your commute is long enough to burn off condensation.

    i dont know what happened with the xr but i doubt it was all your commute or how you do it, must have been another issue involved in that.
    #13
  14. kubiak

    kubiak Long timer

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    all my bikes i had i did the same thing, start it up let the oil flow a bit then take off easy for a few miles to get up to normal temp before riding hard.
    #14
  15. meat popsicle

    meat popsicle Ignostic

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    Assuming you take proper care of the bike, that commute will not bother it unless you are breaking laws on a regular basis.

    And while I do agree with folks here that "fully warmed up" is not essential to casual riding around town, I just want to point out that three bars on the temp gauge may not be even close to warm. I have a thermometer dipstick and when I reach three bars from cold it is only approaching 60C, and warmed up is 80C. Good to know if you are getting ready to dig into the throttle and are assuming three bars means GO!!!

    Link below to the 640 Index thread.
    #15
  16. grumpyman

    grumpyman Adventurer

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    using a motorcycle i have a guaranteed -20min commute from oakland to san fran using hov lanes and my parking costs are $7 per day.
    a car can't touch that.
    as long as i am not doing a top end every year i am happy with that
    #16
  17. clintnz

    clintnz Trans-Global Chook Chaser

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    What they said. I usually start mine up while I'm putting my gear on, a minute or 3 warmup, & my motor has lasted well.

    Plan on a water pump service plus cam bearing & cam follower bearing replacement at 25K miles. With that done my top end lasted 60K miles :D Have fun!

    Cheers
    Clint
    #17
  18. bmwktmbill

    bmwktmbill Traveler

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    Forgot to mention...

    17/42 gearing.

    Brings the revs down but works with stock chain length.

    Big difference in the feel of the ride.

    OEM is 16/42.
    bill
    #18
  19. grumpyman

    grumpyman Adventurer

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    i do have a 17 sitting in the shed
    i just did 500 miles of asphalt behind mostly 950's and big bmw's
    i did wonder if the 17 would have given me that extra 8-10 mph to comfortably stay on them on the flat sections
    was also running a tkc80 front and mefo rear
    have changed out to scorp front for commute/long asphalt rides
    wondering about the mefo super vs a scorp in rear as they look sim but the mefo is sposed to be harder

    i am keeping the dirt tires as the 640 also does dirt duty on our 650 dirt rides and it came with 908's front/rear
    #19
  20. bmwktmbill

    bmwktmbill Traveler

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    The 17T will help within the limitations of the missing 6th gear.

    I use Kenda 270's for everything these days. The largest rear tire is smaller diameter than OEM and that also raises the overall gearing IMHO.
    bill
    #20