wrk2surf the reg has never been connected as the bike never ran I didn't think it would need it's own battery charging circuit. I've tried a few different HT leads and a few different caps, I even tried stripping back the insulation and wrapping the bare wires around the spark plug end. I finally managed to get the nut off the end of the crankshaft a couple of nights ago using Clint's method. I got my girlfriend to undo the nut whilst I held the engine down. All the gears slid off their shaft nicely, no need to buy a puller. I took the oil pumps out and they look fine. The only thing I can guess would be making that noise in the kickstart assembly is the ratchet gear. I'm going to see if I can just remove everything on the kickstarter assembly with no ill effects. A new ratchet gear would cost £130, so I'm definitely not getting a new one and I'm never going to use the kickstart so if it's possible I'll pull the lot out. I don't have the kick start lever but I shouldn't need it if I'm removing the whole assembly apart form the shaft should I? Whilst the head's off anyway I'm going to have the seats recut so I can fit 32mm exhaust valves. I'm also going to clean up the casting a bit to remove any large imperfections. Does anyone know what kind of power gains you can expect from increasing exhaust valve size? Or what else changed between the black and grey heads? I've searched for this Sommer 'special red head' that I saw mentioned in a couple of threads but found no actual info on it. I'd like to measure the crank end play before I split the cases so I know where I am before any work is done, as advised by Clint. Any tips for doing this without a dial indicator? I've done the standard google search and all I found were some videos on youtube for car crankshaft end play. Any advice would be really appreciated. Thanks a lot for the continued support guys, your help and input really has been invaluable.