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Discussion in 'Some Assembly Required' started by YZman, Feb 8, 2009.
do it!! :d
do it do it!! :d:d
Check check. 1,2...1,2. Is this thing on?
Where you at?
Stalled. Waaay too busy with life unfortunately. Hopefully things will slow down soon otherwise ill just have to make some time somehow. I'm getting tired of my lack of progress.
Ahem. So are we!
Well I havent been totaly non productive. I have been sanding on the rear aluminum fender whenever I get a few minutes to spare. Not very exciting stuff. Hardly worth writing home about..not till its done anyways.
Just caught up reading about your project. Wanted to thank you for continuing to post your progress. I have read to many reports that just seem to end without closure. Hate it when that happens. Looking forward to more.
So, it was supposed to be curing wintertime madness, just which winter did you mean
Recently joined here and am having a 1966 BSA A65 chopper restored as a rat chop but by a mechanic (a real old one who seems to know old British iron). Really enjoying this thread and hope you get it done soon and running as good as she looks!
Did I mention that I just brought another motorcycle home this week.....mostly in a large plastic tub of jangly loose bits and pieces
BUT.... once its un-jangled it might pay for some BSA progress!
Didn't he start this in the winter 2009? His form of madness is obviously incurable.
I think it's fear, fear that he might finish something he started.
Leave the other crap alone and get hammerin' on the BSA man.
I used to have British bikes, but I'm better, now. If you plan on really riding that thing, if you haven't done so already, I would strongly suggest you do the roller bearing conversion to the bottom end. The timing side of the crank is only supported by a bushing. When you get some wear in the bushing, you lose oil pressure to the timing side rod journal, with failure close behind. I believe SRM Engineering in England does this, but I also believe there is someone in the states doing this modification, also.
But he just had the motor rebuilt, OK, not 'just', but it is a newly rebuilt motor. Maybe he had this done already(?)
Thought about doing the bearing conversion. But when I saw the price tag I decided against it. Kinda made my heart skip a beat :eek1 I dont see this bike getting a lot of miles on it, more of a sunday cruizer. So it shouldnt be a big deal.
And again... not much to report. Working 2 jobs (1 that pays and 1 that hopefully will pay some day) pretty much takes up all my spare time right now.
But I was eyeballing some cool non maring tire spoons and a wheel truing stand the other day with thoughts of starting the re-lacing process on the new wheels.
Speaking of wheels. The stock wheels have rim locks in them as they are a tube wheel. The new wheels are tube wheels also as they are a spoke wheel. But they are not drilled for rimlocks. Do you think I need rimlocks? My experience with street driven bikes with rim locks is its hard to ballance the wheels due to the added weight of the rim locks. Without rim locks you stand the chance of spinning the tire and tearing out your valve stem. More with the rear wheel than the front I imagine. Although the front does take some strain under breaking.
I was thinking something like this might be the ticket
Then it raises the quesion of where to drill for the rim lock. There isnt a rim lock hole currently in the Akront wheels. I bought.
Hmm and while browsing rockymountains site.....
Ive always just used black tape to cover the spokes as its cheep and doesnt shift around. But that is kinda nice looking. And it is for the BSA and money well.. I just keep throwing at at it (other than that bearing conversion...lol )
"Speaking of wheels. The stock wheels have rim locks in them as they are a tube wheel. The new wheels are tube wheels also as they are a spoke wheel. But they are not drilled for rimlocks. Do you think I need rimlocks? My experience with street driven bikes with rim locks is its hard to ballance the wheels due to the added weight of the rim locks. Without rim locks you stand the chance of spinning the tire and tearing out your valve stem. More with the rear wheel than the front I imagine. Although the front does take some strain under breaking."
Just my two cents, but I don't think you need rim locks unless you a. have a ton of power and lots of traction or b. plan on running low tire pressure.
Well it is a ridged and that back tire pretty much is my rear suspension so yea i kinda was planning on running lower rear tire pressure. Yea i know I know it will accelerate tire wear but as little as this will probably get rode i doubt that will be a problem.
well my BSA guru says leave them out. So that is that. And makes it a lot easier to boot.
Man oh man. BIG BIG BIG Auction coming to my area. Some wicked cool stuff in there...Might have to go to this one. 80 some motorcycles, cars....holly cow... anybody wanna float me a small loan
is this it?
Nope. that one is long since over. That was auctioned off a while ago.
This one is in Michigan just down the road from me. Its the Richard I Potter estate auction. Looks very cool. Even if I cant afford anything (I do have my eye on something) It would be cool to check out.