690 Rally Replica questions...

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by F650Dakar_Norway, Jan 17, 2010.

  1. Johnnyktm

    Johnnyktm Been here awhile

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    I wish I could help you with your problem, but unfortunately I have no idea... Please don't worry as I'm sure that you will receive prompt help from other owners of this INCREDIBLE bike, or at least they can help you with some information :clap

    This is the good thing of these type of forums: We all can help each other, so that we can do things by ourselves, saving money and learning to repair the bikes while we are exploring the world :D :ear
  2. Johnnyktm

    Johnnyktm Been here awhile

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    I took these pics in 2009, and I think it was a 2008 Dakar bike. The rest of the pics are here (pages 520 and 521):

    http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=35110&page=520

    Nice bike, by the way! :D
  3. Pete640

    Pete640 Long timer

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    I hope that I understand your problem properly but is the ooze coming from the clutch slave cylinder???
    If so it may be the shaft seal ring (PN 0760 172871) in the clutch cover Part #6 - here;
    http://www.boltonmotorcycles.com/find/fiche/217455
    These are a problem with the 950 - causing a leak at the slave...

    Can you post a pic of the problem if this isnt it..
  4. shebanano

    shebanano Adventurer

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  5. F650Dakar_Norway

    F650Dakar_Norway What off-season?

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    That's a genuine Marc Coma 2005 KTM 660 Rally Factory bike if anything. Not really comparable to the 690 RFR in this thread since it's a different construction with a different engine. Chain drive opposite side etc.

    Nice bike! You don't see many of those :clap
  6. Johnnyktm

    Johnnyktm Been here awhile

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    Thanks for the information! :thumb
  7. Cummo

    Cummo Been here awhile

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    On many occasions this problem is due to worn piston rings. How old is the top end?


  8. shebanano

    shebanano Adventurer

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    My bike has 10,000 km. The aluminum residues sludge was evident.
    I find that it is not a theory. Today I mounted the transmitter Oberon clutch and my theory has been confirmed. I said goodbye to the start jerking in 1st gear. Now I can release the clutch lever as I please because I have never surprises, no more sudden shocks and jostling unpleasant. All theories of change clutch plates and seals are a mistake. The problem with this bike is the damn Magura clutch system that is a real shit.
    The next change will be a new Brembo radial pump clutch. that allows for gear changes less force applied to the lever.
  9. Cummo

    Cummo Been here awhile

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    Also I have problems in the clutch level. Oil oozing gum constantly.....I was talking about this. At 10K kms needs a piston and rings, unless you road ride it all the time.
  10. shebanano

    shebanano Adventurer

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    Someone with mechanical skills could ensure that this pump would work perfectly in a 690RFR?.

    http://www.ktmtwins.com/ktm-rc8-950-990-brembo-rcs-radial-clutch-kit

    KTM to replace the OEM sells 950 and 990 Supermoto SuperEnduro. These pumps are of 10.5 mm diameter piston.
    The RFR 690 has a pump piston with a diameter from 11 mm. In theory it should be valid for use in RFR 690.
    If possible, I was interested to buy this:
    http://www.motovationusa.com/mvstore/scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=1022

    ... but it's a lot of money to spend if not safely.
    Thanks for the replies.
  11. Cummo

    Cummo Been here awhile

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    I think I misunderstood you, is there oil coming out of the master cylinder at the bars? I was addressing this problem in my reply which can be a result of worn rings blowing into the sump pressurizing the cases and pushing back clutch oil out of the clutch lever, very common as the case seal on the clutch side is very small and teflon!

    The jerkiness and grabby clutch on a 690RR ( Rally Replica) is something I tried to fix also, I asked the factory mechanics on many rallies about this, the only thing that fixed it on my 690 RR was 2 things, remove all the plates, you will notice an edge on the plates where they have been stamped out, all the rough edges need to point towards the outside of the bike, drop the oil and install the Motorex 20W60 oil designed for high performance singles, it solved my problem. All this came from a 65 year old original rally mechanic for KTM who did much design work on the 690RR - Walther was his name if I recall right, he also showed me the trick of pushing the front brake caliper with your knee across the disc and then pulling it back, this removed the softness of the lever ( after every stage ) and made it firm again, he said the Titanium caliper bowls flip the rubber seal when they get hot and increase chamber sizes, by pumping the caliper it flips the seal back......i must have bled the front 5 times trying to fix this issue!

    QUOTE=shebanano;20807439]Someone with mechanical skills could ensure that this pump would work perfectly in a 690RFR?.

    http://www.ktmtwins.com/ktm-rc8-950-990-brembo-rcs-radial-clutch-kit

    KTM to replace the OEM sells 950 and 990 Supermoto SuperEnduro. These pumps are of 10.5 mm diameter piston.
    The RFR 690 has a pump piston with a diameter from 11 mm. In theory it should be valid for use in RFR 690.
    If possible, I was interested to buy this:
    http://www.motovationusa.com/mvstore/scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=1022

    ... but it's a lot of money to spend if not safely.
    Thanks for the replies.[/QUOTE]
  12. DRjoe

    DRjoe Long timer

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    Has anyone got any spare grab handles they want to sell?
    On my friends bike he's had the bolts pull through on one of the handles.
    If we can't find the original plastic ones I'll probably make some aluminium ones.
  13. shebanano

    shebanano Adventurer

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    The oil oozed out exactly by the inlet orifice of set Piston 11 mm.

    The sliding piston in the old OEM clutch issuer was clearly irregular. There was not a linear slide. That meant that when you let go of the clutch lever slowly; the bike started with pushing.
    In my case, for now, the problem is solved.

    Now I need to solve the problem of hardness in the clutch lever. So I ask about the option of Brembo.
  14. Johnnyktm

    Johnnyktm Been here awhile

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    Thanks, Cummo, for the very informative response! ;-)
  15. Pete640

    Pete640 Long timer

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    Those handles are mucho $$$ think over $300 each as listed. :huh

    Spare tanks I have - handles I do not.....
  16. DRjoe

    DRjoe Long timer

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    ok well out of ally I shall make them.
  17. Mudguts

    Mudguts when in doubt GAS IT

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    I dare you to make some anodised aluminum handles. :D

    Then post photos on how cool they look .


    And does any one have CF tank protectors if so how much and were
  18. johnno950

    johnno950 Long timer

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    [/QUOTE]
    Thanks for info,my bike leaks clutch resivoir oil from the master cyc/and lid of assembly when bike is ridden for a few hours,have noticed the action of the gearbox gets a bit harsher also,dont lose much fluid but not good.My engine seems to be still in good running order,no oil usage/clean screens/filter cleats at service time and the crankcase breather (got filter over end of tube) has little or no signs of excessive blow-by.I had the squaking/abrupt initial action on clutch when i got the bike (second hand 12000 kms) then did the modification as recommended by 690rr forum member,this fixed the squarking etc.I would like to be able to fix the harsh gearbox action,i was going to add another gasket to the slave cyc assembly on the engine,i thought maybe the actuator rod that goes to the clutch binds up when engine is hot?,seems a bit strange but thats what im going to try,the bike has nearly 50k on it now.
  19. Pete640

    Pete640 Long timer

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    U been on holidays Johnno??? Haven't seen u around here for a while???:1drink
    Scratch scratch scratch!!!
  20. LukasM

    LukasM Long timer

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    Skip the Brembo, it is really big and probably made for brake fluid clutch systems (although it might work fine with hydraulic fluid if it has never been filled before?).

    What you want is a Magura master cylinder with a smaller bore, 9 or 9.5mm (used on some KTM EXCs, SX, Husaberg etc). This will give you a lighter pull with a bit more travel, it should still be enough to completely disengage the clutch.

    Alternatively you can also try a "Clever Lever" from Midwest Mountain Engineering, they have a different lever ratio that requires about half the pulling force, also with more travel.

    http://midwestme.com/pages/productinfo.html