Hey guys, Got a '72 CB450 that isn't charging the battery and I'm trying to track down the cause. Unfortunately the cb450dohc.com site shut down for some reason and the remaining MSN site is kinda iffy. The symptoms are that when the headlight is off, at idle the voltmeter will pretty much break even on about 12.9-13.0 volts at the battery. When you rev it goes up a little but it's not where it should be (13.8 volts at least). Charging current at idle is about 0.9 amps. When you rev between idle and 2000 rpm or so charging current goes up to about 1.2-1.5 amps. Where it gets interesting is that at about 3000 rpm charging current nosedives to 0.5 amps and never goes above that again. Charging current spec with the headlight off is 3-4 amps at 3000 rpm and 4-5 amps at 5000 rpm. Now, with the headlight on, you can forget about it. If you have a voltmeter hooked up to the battery with the engine idling and you turn the headlight on, the voltmeter starts counting backwards -- clearly the battery is discharging. Same thing with charging current, turning the headlight on will put it to about -2.5-3 amps and it never goes positive regardless of rpm. Here's what I've got so far: New Yuasa battery, fully charged. Bike starts and runs great (on the kicker, the electric starter clutch is busted - that's another future fix). That is until the battery gets discharged enough so that the coils don't work anymore. I electrically tested the rectifier as instructed in the Clymer manual. This was my first suspect as I hear the rectifiers were a weak spot on these bikes. Rectifier tested good as per the specs in the manual. Next thought was maybe the headlight switch. Here's why: these bikes have a split charging system. In stock configuration, with the headlight off, you get half of the charging system's output. With headlight turned on you get full charging output. I decided to wire the 36-year-old headlight switch out of the equation and connected the 2 wires in the headlight bucket that the headlight switch bridges when you turn the light on. This should provide full charge all the time. It made no difference to my readings with the meter. Next, tested the stator for shorts and opens, again as per the Clymer manual. Step 1 is to read resistance between the yellow and pink wires. Spec is 1.1 ohms, and mine was right on that. Then you measure between the white and pink leads and spec is 0.55 ohms. Mine read 0.4 ohms. I don't know if that's a significant enough difference to be a problem. Any thoughts? I have a spare stator here that reads 1.1 ohms and 0.6 ohms (my meter doesn't read 2 decimal places at that scale). I am thinking of replacing it and fixing the starter clutch while I'm in there. So really the only items left are the voltage regulator and the stator/rotor combo. I have a spare stator and rotor and I may swap that in for shits and giggles but I'm not real optimistic becuase the electrical testing seems to indicate that it's OK. The other possibility is the voltage regulator. Clymer doesn't give any sort of test procedure for it. They just suggest that usually voltage regulators fail so that the charging current is too high rather than too low. But that seems to imply that it's possible it could fail the other way. Unfortunately they don't mention a way to test it. Any ideas? Does anyone know if these bikes used an old-skool points-type regulator or a solid-state type? I would guess points-type. Oh also I tested the output of the alternator directly at the plug where it ties into the bike's harness to eliminate all the other questions from consideration. At idle, on the pink to yellow voltage test I got 20 volts AC and on the pink to white test I got 18 volts AC. However without a spec these numbers don't really mean anything to me. Are they normal? Low? Not enough information? I just don't know. Any expert advice from you old Honda gurus would be much appreciated.