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Discussion in 'Old's Cool' started by edfetz, Oct 13, 2011.
No seal at fwd end of rear gears. Some lube invariably makes its way fwd
I'm usually paranoid about NOT having lube in that area. What is an inspection routine for this thing? Recommended service at 50,000 miles?
I just cleaned mine as good as I could
with some simple green and qtips,
changed the oil and ran it.
What eventually killed it,
And I did kill it,
Was a po who must have broke it open.
I was riding pretty hard one day
And the rear locked up.
It just ate itself.
These things need to be shimmed
in a dozen directions at the same time,
well maybe like 3 or something.
Someone shimmed mine up bad.
I lubed mine,
especially the driveshaft splines.
Must of lubed the wheel splines too,
I can't see any harm in doing it anyway.
Just a little dab'll do ya.
Look up charley cole of zydeco racing.
He's like the only guy in the world with the rig to true one,
And he's on Long Island.
He set me up with a new unit
That ran real nice.
So yeah, wipe its ass and see If it's notchy.
Or send it to charley if you want it top shelf.
As mtiberio says, no seals on the pinion shaft. Gear oil finds it's way up past them to (hopefully) lube the spliny bits. Still a good idea to grease the splines liberally during assembly and once in a while afterwards.
Bloodweiser has given you some very good advice. Charley Cole will reshim and reseal the rear drive, thus ensuring that it won't leak and will live a long life. Not at all expensive for what you get (piece of mind). http://www.zydecoracing.com
The "little finned reservoir" is a sump of sorts, #37 in the drawing above.
This stayed outside...for now
Tranny seperated from moto.
What's up with the blob of JB?
Did you get this bike from Wonder Lake, IL?
Damaged teeth on ring gear. Errant starter buttonitis...
I just buttoned up the tranny on my T3, and have done a lot of reading on the subject lately. There is a staked nut on the fwd end of the output shaft which holds the bearing onto the shaft. Apparently, it's not uncommon for the nut to unstake itself and walk itself off the end of the shaft, and machine its way into the case. I bet thats what happened here, and the JB weld is how they fixed the case. Sure woulda been easy to weld it up while box was apart. I guess I'm assuming that the PO opened up the trans to fix the errant nut.
those look fine.
at least identical to the ones I've seen,
which all worked.
any shavings in the bell housing?
Thanx Blood and Johnny,
This is my first close look at the box. I really really really didn't want to bust open the case, but this comment:I guess I'm assuming that the PO opened up the trans to fix the errant nut.
....Is the resulting wisdom born of experience.
With no experience myself , I'm gonna send it out to Charlie. It's already been put through the ringer once. Who knows what's going on in there?
Gears or chain?
take a look at let us know,
tis only a few bolts.
but they should be gears.
'74 - chain. Engine nos. 58532 onward had chain.
Is that P for Police?
Not a clue. But I doubt it. The bikes became "Police" or "California" after the motors were manufactured. The 850 motors were used for a variety of bikes. Stamping a P on the block didn't mean that bike got floorboards. Putting floorboards on didn't necessarily mean it became an actual Police bike. It's all very Italian, and my linguini ain't that good!
After seeing your gearbox with its blob of JB weld over the output shaft bearing boss, I took my gearbox back apart, to double check the tightness of the end nut on my output shaft. I turned out to be fine, but when I had the box apart, I didn't really scrutinize this aspect. It's funny how quickly you can do something the second time. It took me about 45 minutes to strip the box, torque the nut, and reassemble. Oh well, now I can be pretty certain the I won't have trouble with this.