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Discussion in 'Old's Cool' started by edfetz, Oct 13, 2011.
Lots of Loop projects on this board right now. Maybe we need a support group. Or at least a thread...
Most of the parts of this bike are being restored as original.
The exceptions being the Gilardoni cylinders/pistons and the brake lines to that front disc.
These Spieglers have got me sportin' wood!! Excellent workmanship!!
The good news is, the ring & pinion in the rear drive are OK. Bearings/seals need replacement but we expected that.
The bad news is the previous owner liked this bike so much he rode the crap out of it. Fully loaded, probably 2 up.
The rear drive flange and gear are all worn up, er, out...
Charley C. will replace the flange with a " good used " shortly, as part of the rear drive refresh.
But what to do about the rear wheel?
I'm left with a coupla options:
Buy the expensive new drive gear and have it installed, in the old wheel. Vewy twicky, without the unobtainable assembly guide tool...new bearings and seals.
Buy the 850T rear wheel with the good hub offa ebay. There's a couple of them out there, but they are almost expensive as all the new parts and labor, and I've got ANOTHER expensive 40 year old rear wheel that still needs bearings and seals...
I bought a very good rear wheel for my Cali from Harpers - used, but with top-notch splines and bearings, just as Curtis Harper described. At $350, I thought it was a bargain. Curtis also had some good suggestions to keep the shipping costs to Canada down to a dull roar. Good people to deal with. Now, what to do with the old one...............
Many Thanks to Gordon/Rick for providing this nice photo of what the gear USED to look like.
Curtis has been a gentleman to deal with.
I'll give him a call in the morning...
Dragged the bare block out of the corner and set it on the bench.
This thing will start to go together.
Gee.. this head bolt looks crusty and the timing chest threads and the oil pan bolts...
I spent a couple hours cleaning all threads.
Good thing too...they were really crusty.
Several of the threaded rods backed out from the block. I reseated with a blue loctite.
I'm going to follow the procedure laid out by Pete Roper on Guzzitech, thanks to Greg Bender.
Now, I'm gonna need to dig out ALL them parts...3 bins, about 75 bags!
New bearing slipped right in. Popped the oil dowel out of the old and into the new. Why have the dowel at all? It constricts the oil flow. But in it went.
I disposed of the old rubber blob tensioner and now have the Valtek type tensioner. It attaches to 2 of the 6 bearing retainer bolts. That leaves the 2 old bolt holes open that used to secure the old tensioner.
Should I plug 'em?
Here's the old tensioner
The old retainer was all used up. The new retainer has far smaller "ears" or bosses for the three securing bolts.
Did I mention I have 3 full tubs of 70 somethin bags of pretty well identified but not really well organized parts! That's been an ADV in itself! I finally found the oil pump...
And why DID? I replace the cam retainer?
Hmmm. Read through the notes on the "wear specs" that we found when the motor came apart.
Cam Retainer Were all on the "all wored out" list and got replaced.
The fixture doesn't so much "retain" the camshaft in the case, but becomes a spacer for the cam sprocket. The wear was on the timing case side. The width of the retainer new is 6.98 mm.
The "indent" on the front was .32mm. Which added that much more float to the cam.
We could not find any specs for endplay, and it was a gut call to replace the retainer.
Set the front crank bearing. All these parts had the "retainer" strips. I set a bit of blue loctite on everything and reset the strips. It was satisfying to clinch the bolts.
I finally found the oil pump and installed that.
It involved 3 different sized Allen heads. I attached the oil pickup on the inside of the case as well as the oil pump as it sort of acts as a group. The pickup got in the way later on, but at least it's back on there.
One of several.
Yes, I remembered to transfer my oil passage dowels in the front and rear main bearings but I still can't figure out why they are there in the first place.
The whole idea is to sploosh as much oil through the system as possible. Why constrict the flow with the dowels?
And then set the rear bearing. I put a thin shmeer of ultra copper sealant on the gasket and set the 8 bolts. (Again with the bolt stopper strips).
I took Pete Ropers suggestion and wrapped the two bottom bearing bolts with teflon tape as they are full through to the case.
New main seal. A thin shmeer of ultra copper on the outside rim and set it with the old bearing.
In an earlier photo we can see the existing timing case setup. Of particular interest is the original timing chain "tensioner",
aka "The Blob" on the right. It actually never tensioned anything and sat 1/4 " away from anything. That chain was loose as a goose! (Pun intended)
The chain never really contributed anything to endplay alignment.
I just realized I've lost the second key on the crank.
Anybody got a spare 3 x 16mm Woodruff key in the parts bin?????
It is not as simple as splooshing as much oil around as possible, you need to retrict the flow in certain ways, so that the correct amount of oil goes to where you need it, at the right time, while all the time maintaining a good oil pressure.
A good time for the oil breathers to go back in...
The timing train proved persnickity to reassemble. I replaced the missing keyway but the sprockets were hesitant to remount on the spindles. They eventually went on. I then threaded the new chain, lined up the timing marks and made the chain link. I got .006 clearance between crank sprocket and case.
The "Valtek" type tensioner sure seems squished in there.
I suppose it's better than the "Blob"...