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Discussion in 'Old's Cool' started by edfetz, Oct 13, 2011.
Those springs were a known fault on some early guzzis.
Good used gastank...check
Get my ass in gear and pull the junk and get to it!!!!
Split u-joint boot? Wouldn't recommend it. Better to pull the rear drive and swingarm and do it right. Gives you a chance to grease the splines and have a good look at the condition of everything.
repack the swingarm tapered bearings. the centering and pre-load are easy to do.
add about 2oz of gear oil at the boot before clamping it as i stated before... works.
they ain't tapered.
I'm not sure what your plan of attack is;
she'll fire up easy for you I'm sure.
But if you plan to do some miles,
put some love into the running gear.
Lube those splines,
scope out the u-joint,
replace that carrier bearing,
and give your RD a going over....
I shattered one of those pretty good.
Above all, listen to MZrider
Swingarm bearings on loops and tontis are tapered. If you need to replace them, you'll need a blind bearing puller to get the race out of the swing arm. Greg Bender has a cross-reference:
OK, well mine and 2 other loops i know of aren't.
also a long bolt and some clever washer placement works well.
edit: scuze me, I've been referring to the carrier bearing, not swing arm bearings.
Tapered or not, I'll be repacking the swing arm bearings!
Onward! Into the Fog!
Pull the motor/tranny
Clean the greasy dirty thing up...
Clean the dirty greasy frame up...
Pull heads - send to Aldo (machinist) for for testing/inspection. Repair/refresh if compression low.
Pull cylinders for Gilardoni replacement
Inspect crank/cam bearings
Replace seals front rear main
I don't even know yet if it's got a chain or gears but check and refresh as necessary
Improve generator mounting bracket
Replace clutch springs
Inspect plates for wear
Crack tranny/inspect for wear and replace shifter return spring
Keep cleaning the dirty greasy bitch up
Fix whatever else looks bad
Clean the greasy dirty thing up
Pull rear swing, grease bearing and head yoke
Inspect repair driveshaft/UJoint/spline
Inspect rear drive for operation
Brakes front and rear
Check refresh harness
Keep cleaning the damn thing up
Fresh gas lines
I'm gonna throw two little Uni filters on the carbs for now
Then I was gonna put fresh oil and gas in it, start it up and take it for a ride....
Did I miss anything?
#16 on the pic above has a very fine pitch thread for its large diameter.
These are known to get rusted inplace but not often. They should have had a light lubing of grease when installed.
I have had luck with one that was frozen inplace on a Tonti frame. Like a bicycle seat post that gets rusted in.
I heated the #16 not the frame, this will cause it to expand crushing corrosion, let it cool, then remove.
This way the finish on the frame is little damaged.
Three chemicals are on my bench.
Nuts-Off... the best penetrating oil ever. Works a treat on salt water outboards. Hard to find & inexpensive.
Rapid-Tap... one of the best all purpose cutting agents. I even use it on files for a real nice finish.
DeOxit... google it, buy it, use it. Put a touch on all electrical connection.
Only in recent years have Italian m/c wiring looms not had issues with corrosion at the wire end & crimp connect. Must be strange alloy.
DeOxit will go inside these connection & do wonders. Keep this in mind.
I doubt the swinger bearing will need changing, just cleaning & repack. New rubber seals might be needed however.
Adjust pre-load on the swinger bearings with the engine mounting bolts torqued and the rear shocks off.
Some pre-load is needed and moving the swinger it can be felt when there is too much.
There might be a spec on this. Like zero + 1/2 turn but IDK.
BTW, i'm 65 soon and have been wrenching since age 10.
Yes - attach video camera. Take pictures. Post so other loopers can enjoy.
...or should I just call you Old....?
Looks like I can get DeOxit Gold at the local Radio Shack...same stuff?
Thanks for the tip. I've never used the stuff, but always wondered if somebody made something like that...
I'll be 58 in October and am past the age of needing to get my Nuts Off, on a regular basis...
I've recently found some gentle massaging heat to be sufficient to get the job done when the time is right!
Tap Magic has been on my shelf for years, seems to work just fine...and I just picked up a new Tap and Die set in anticipation of this project.
I'm all geared up to document this thing.
It helps to slow things down by forcing yourself to take pics, as references are made, and questions can be posed to the peanut gallery... one picture is worth a thousand....
You guys will be peppered with silly questions ad infinitum that will probably get me banned...
Not HIM again!!!
The goal is to make the bike run well...better than new if possible...
I originally was going to pimp this thing up, but I've never been a fan of , "...just another girl on the runway.."
She is what she is...
As Stagehand says, " I love my bike, and she loves me, but I'm sure it's only for my money...!":eek1
Wanna really make it run sweet?
Since you're installing new barrels & pistons... tighten up the squish band (google that).
In the olden days guys would use uber-thick base gaskets to lower compression and stop any pinging.
The real deal is to get what little squish Guzzi offers to a little < 1mm like .7
This increases turbulence in the combustion chamber and really helps stop pinging(detonation).
On the two 948cc Guzzis i built V7 Sport base gaskets were used and they brought the pistons to 1.2mm squish.
email Moto International about this. Dave Richardson is the Guzzi man.
Another sweetener... In an unseen as possible place, install 1/4" hose fittings in the intake manifolds.
Remove any bit that protrudes into the intake tract.
Use a 1/4" neoprene hose between them. Balances the intake at very low speeds & idle.
The carbs still need to be in balance without this hose inplace. So balance them then install the hose..
simple and these fittings can be used for vacuum balancing... clear?
DeOxit Gold? Yes. A tiny drop on a tooth pick is all it takes.
Google reviews of it.
I worked a number of years around deep sea salt water(oil platforms) and nothing works like Nuts-Off.
Believe me the oil patch tries everything. If you ever see it...buy it.
0.7 mm :eek1
One millimeter on a modern big twin is a standard squish measurement on stock con rods.
Maybe 0.7mm is with a 4000 rpm rev limit.
At 46k miles the noisy even new rockers may need service.
rockerarms.com near Redding CA is the place.
The shafts are quite hard and can be flipped if any wear is detectable.
In the late '90s shipping to & fro costs close to the rebush & tip grinding of all four arms.
Most hghly recommend them if you are seeking this.
Moto International did my heads for $150 in the '90s with new guides.
Tip: Drop the push rods one at a time in a horizontal fashion from about a foot onto a hard flat surface.
Does it ring? That's good.
Does it sound like a lead bell? That's bad... means it's full of oil. Buy used as new are laughably funny expensive.
The two places out here are:
Cycle Garden.. not cheap
Moto Guzzi Classics.. Mark is a good m/c guy
In an unseen as possible place, install 1/4" hose fittings in the intake manifolds.
Did I not tell or suggest to him to contact D. Richardson on this?? Mmmmm.
.7mm is the minimum. over 1mm is not the best and both my 948 engines unded up at 1.2mm and i was able to stop using duel spark plugs.
How many engines have you built? My 948 engines saw 7.5k RPM often.
Comments like your's are why most that know will not post in threads of this type.
Lurk & drop turds, is that you?
The lower inside.
You really should buy a current copy of Guzziology.
Got it...signed by the author...
At 400 pages or so, I haven't finished reading them all...
Chapter 7 doesn't have a listing for a manifold to manifold connection to improve idle ability.
Where would I find a reference to that?