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Discussion in 'Some Assembly Required' started by flemsmith, Dec 23, 2012.
maybe this one,
Thanks for the link help. I musta done something wrong when I cc'd it.
OK, now I need some smarter than me help/advice. I got in my new drive flange, so I took the rear drive apart again. The old drive flange did have some wear spots that didn't look perfect, but there were no deep scratches, although could have been a few very light ones. I've got it in my oven for an hour at 400F before I remove those red loctited bolts. (When I put it back together, I think I'll just use blue loctite along w/ the schnoor washers, so it'll be easy to take apart again.)
Here's my Que:
Here's the big bearing the drive flange sits inside. Obviously it's had some troubles in the past, not sure if I did it when I drove the first seal in too far..?
So I thought I'd mask off the viton seal that's in there now and try some fine crocus cloth. Didn't make much of a diff. I can feel slight irregularities with my fingernail. Bearing feels fine, and that mating surface should be pretty much a press fit with the drive flange, meaning it shouldn't move...but could it be as much a source of the oil leak as the drive flange to seal surface? Part of me thinks that if I get that interface right, this one shouldn't matter. But I'm not confident enough about that to put it back together without some corraborating opinions. Anyone think I should be ok without replacing the big bearing? roy
Partly since the big bearing was on back-order, and partly because I'm confident that it's no big deal to take it apart again if I need to, I decided to replace the drive flange and try using the same big bearing...it rolls very freely, just has that discolored section where it obviously turned against the previous drive flange some time in the past. I even used red loctite again for the drive flange mounting bolts, but I have to confess that I didn't buy new bolts again...these are almost new and at $12 each for 8 of 'em, I figured the red loctite and schnorr washers were good enough insurance that nothing would come apart. New large drive seal, and as I was installing the new drive flange, I did put some blue loctite on the bearing surface that looks like it's done a little spinning in the past. I'll take it as a good omen that the seal definitely seems a bit tighter on the new drive flange than it did on the old one. Letting it sit and rest overnight. Should get a chance to tell whether it's leak free by this weekend. roy
Now I need to put some miles on to make sure it isn't leaking anywhere else, and get it registered and legal.
More pix please; Love the look of your Guzzi ! ! !
btw = the color is sweet for that bike.
Couldn't get it to idle to suit me, so took it to Mark at Quality Cycles in Mesa, mostly an Airhead shop, but they do nice work on all bikes. Turns out my right carb is not working right mixture-wise, left one is fine. But on the way I ended up with an oil leak I hadn't seen before. It was coming from the right valve cover breather hose. Guess 20 miles at 75-80 sustained will turn up more debug issues than just a few miles at a time does. Good news is it was very happy at freeway speeds. And now I've run up against some other things I promised my wife I'd do first, and they are gonna take awhile. Then I have to clean up the oil mist. I did order new needles and jets in prep, but it will take me some time to get back to it. Happily, the rear drive doesn't appear to be leaking at all now.
I'll report back in when I've had a chance to spend time and see what my carb issue is. If it's not float levels or needle jet wear, I'll take it apart again and make sure all the passages are still open.
Quality Cycles tracked down a charging problem for me on my T3. Good shop to deal with.
I do like the looks of these old Enduro sidebags....
But they're actually quite light and a bit delicate. Especially if you forget to latch the lid and hear it rubbing between your back tire and rear fender.
So now I need to figure out how best to repair...the only way I really know how to do it is with fiberglass. Lay up some aluminum foil tape on the outside so I can put a layer of fiberglass inside.
Then when it dries, do the same from the outside and get ready to sand some really tough fiberglass.
I have no idea what type of plastic it is, and I've never tried to weld any plastic at all, so unless someone can clue me in on a better way to fix this, I guess I'll continue with the fiberglass. Down side is how hard it will be for me to get a perfectly smooth contour, and how well I can blend it in with the plastic at the edges. I guess I should finish with bondo when I think I'm close. Any better ideas, pls advise. I'll probably try posting in the garage too, lots of clever folks seem to hang out there.
Az lets you do a bonded title, which required me writing some letters: to the orig seller (no longer at that address), to the state of Montana where it was last registered, to the last person who had registered it, (now deceased). Once I got those letters back, unopened, off to the insurance office to get a bond. $50.
While I was waiting on all that to happen, I was learning how to patch the sidebag lid so it wasn't obvious. Actually I'm still learning that, seems fiberglass and plastic don't interface all that well, I keep seeing the edge of the patch...but I think I'm getting close.
And one other good thing...I was having trouble with the footpegs being a little too knee-bendy. Had my knee drained (185cc of synovial fluid) and a steroid shot....Felt fine riding it today. Doc told me it should last somewhere between 5 days and 5 months. Guess we'll see.
I was asked about how I routed the crankcase breather, so here's a pix.
Crankcase on the T3 has two breather tubes, I just capped off the small one, and ran the larger one up the frame and terminated it in some pod type filter I had around. The Bunn system also had a little filter in the line, so what I added was probably overkill.
like it should. I ended up buying another right side carb from ebay, rebuilt it and it was immediately better than the original, so after syncing it and adjusting the mixture and idle speed, it idles by itself just fine.
I'm pretty sure the original carb must have had a leaking float valve or mebbe the floats themselves. So now let's see what else I want to change in order to enjoy longer rides.
Glad to see you're still going on this. Speaking of bag lids getting loose while riding, the other day I was out for a ride on my /5. Looked over my shoulder at 60 mph to see that the lid on one of my nice Bucos had come unlatched, and had somehow fallen into the case endwise. No loss, no damage. I went straight home (was headed there anyway), figured I'd used up all of my good luck for the day!
I wasn't proud enough of my repair job to do any real posting on the lid that had the hole burnt in it from my rear tire....I must have patched, sanded and primed 15 times and I could never get rid of the interface between the plastic lid and the fiberglass patch. I finally ordered some 3M vinyl, and covered it with that. It actually looks quite good from 5 feet..closer will show some wrinkles I couldn't get out, and the exact right light reflection still shows that my compound curves are not exactly right. But for now I'm calling it good enough. There's some other things I want to redo first before I mess with that anymore.
thanks for the encouragement.
A quick update on the Bunn breather install. I saw some pretty slight leakage out of the valve cover breather hoses after a pretty decent sustained run on the freeway, so emailed Rex Bunn, and with his inputs, I redid the hose routing.
Originally I had the valve cover breather hoses heading straight inwards and then down behind the tranny. I've now changed them to loop up under the front of the gas tank thusly:
After the Bunn valves, I'm running a fairly long coupla tubes towards the back of the bike, one terminates behind the tranny, and one is tied under the left side of the swingarm.
In addition, Rex advised me to remove the small filter he had sent (it's laying loose on the valve cover in that pix), and am now just using the cheapo K&N style filter to feed the bottom of the crankcase.
So now after about a 30 mile ride at freeway speeds, no leaks apparent from either of the valve breather hoses; I'm calling that little issue resolved. roy
Interesting. So, basically you've done the following:
1. small tube from bellhousing = blocked.
2. large tube from bellhousing = no valve and only a K&N breather filter.
3. valve cover vents = one way exit-only valves and hose routed as shown.
Does that about some it up?
Out of curiosity, what speed did you maintain and for how long with your interstate run?
....exactly right, Greg. Speed? Dunno for sure. My speedo was reading 80 most of the time, but it reads 10 when sitting still. I will say that I wasn't passing everyone in sight (staying in the middle lane), so I expect closer to 70 would be about right. If it gives you more info, I think my tach was at about 4500. If I remember right, it was right at 30 miles total, the freeway is about 4 miles from my house each way, so I'm guessing about 20ish miles on the freeway. I haven't done any more yet because it wanted to die on me when I came off the freeway and was expecting it to settle into a nice idle...I just replaced the pilot jets with 48's, and thought I'd try again, hopefully tomorrow. The twinmax showed the balance was pretty close, will try that again after I give it a pretty good warmup run. Plus I may have the idle mixture set too rich, as it wants to idle really well when I first start it up and take the chokes off. Then when it gets hot, not so much.
I also ordered some 130 mains, currently running 120's, and they seem ok, don't really see a problem with them, but since it's bored out, I thought the Convert size mains might be a better fit. I'll get it, but it may take a good bit more trial and error, I've never been great at carbs. And I'm not really focused on it right now with some family stuff taking my time. Thanks for the interest. Roy
Thanks, Roy. That information is helpful.
...so after a 100 mile ride at freeway speeds, I'm getting an oil mist out of the Bunn breather hoses that I don't really like. It looks like I'll either fab or if I'm lucky, buy some sort of oil catch can to terminate the breather hoses. Only obvious location I have left is above the swingarm, and it's pretty small. Any one has examples of something they're happy with, I'm interested. Otherwise, I'll post up whatever I end up with as I try to come up with something that keeps the back end of the bike moderately clean.
The journey is never really finished.
(Damned if I know). So I found an oil breather that fit ok in the space I had in front of the swingarm. It's made by JEGS, the car racer/hotrod folks. Centerstand straddles it. I figure worst case if a rock breaks the thermoplastic, I'm no worse off than I was before with the oil mist.
So far I've only run it about 10 miles, and as you can see, there's nothing in it yet. It's really only at sustained freeway type speeds I was getting anything out of the previous hose system I had, so sometime before long I'll give it a good thrashing and see what happens.
I also installed a Brown sidestand, very happy with it compared to the extreme forward frame mounted stock one. I can deploy it from the seat, and it comes up when I bring it up, not when it wants to. It's mounted between the rear tranny bolt and the centerstand bolt, threaded 3/8" (IIRC) steel, so I had to turn around the tranny bolt, loctite it, and lose the nut, but it was easy.
and now, the big purchase. Took me awhile to decide I was ready for this, but the bike did so well going almost 100 miles on the freeway that I decided to keep trying to fix things I didn't like...
It's a Parabellum Scout fairing with the 20" windscreen. Looks a bit dorky mebbe, but heck, if the shoe fits.... I can be doing 60 and realize that I never even pulled the faceshield down on my helmet, which is not the case on any other bike I've ridden, possible exception being the beemer RT. But at 75 or so, the top of the screen moved around a bit more than I thought it should, so I made some extra brackets to help support the top of the fairing...
I know they help, but I haven't ridden far enough yet to know how much they will help on an extended trip keeping up with AZ freeway/roadrage traffic. And the front suspension has always seemed a bit harsher than I had anticipated; turns out I bought the heavy duty spring set intended for the G5 and SP1000, and my measly 195lbs may not be exactly right for that setup. MG cycle tells me I really should have bought the Wirth springs and FAC dampeners, and at $400, I might.... Sometime..... Meanwhile...
Seat springs are like $20, and since I can't weld and don't have a lathe, I tend to make lots of brackets, matter of fact, I have a whole box of not quite perfect brackets I made for some bike or other, so I only had to make two new ones for this seat. And it really does make a difference! Don't know why I didn't think of it before. I'm actually beginning to like this bike quite a bit. And to top it all off, I think I've read enough online help that I finally feel like I can tune the carbs so they idle pretty darn well. I still plan to try a larger set of main jets and see what they do to my top end/mileage. In case anyone with a T3 is following, the main jets on VHB carbs are the same size threads as the pilot jets, so in reality you just order some really large pilot jets when you go to place a main jet order.
I think I'll go visit the painter this winter and see how much I can't afford to get the fairing painted. The sidebags are gonna stay black. They're a bit flimsy for carrying much, but I do like the retro look.
Seems like the fun never ends, and this bike is really a lot of fun to work on. later, roy
Small changes we all make....I felt like the sidebags were just a bit too flimsy, they're plastic after all, and although I have them mounted at three places, the long curved bracket at the back was just too cantilevered...So I read over in the garage section about HTS2000 for brazing aluminum. Bought some and made an internal support for the sidebags that ties the front and back brackets together.
It's not beautiful, but it is much less prone to move with the vibration. It's easy to use, I'm sure I'll find other aluminum brazing I need to do. Found a speedo off a G5 that has a tripmeter, and although the back end of the needle was flopping around inside, I ran across a helpful tutorial on how to get the bezel reattached, so I fixed it, masked and painted both bezels, and now I can calculate my mileage without having to write it down. (Also finally sent my brackets off for some black powdercoat too.)
Yeah, it only reads 80, I'm sure I'll get to test that out someday. Not sure I'll be doing much more, I'm enjoying it as is. roy