78 Moto Guzzi T3

Discussion in 'Some Assembly Required' started by flemsmith, Dec 23, 2012.

  1. flemsmith

    flemsmith lurk

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    Yes, I see the attachemnt for the tank strap now, Pretty obvious if you know where to look. Not so much when I look at it from above and can't remember much of anything about how it came apart. I took pictures, made notes, and put all the little hardware in baggies, and there are still things I run into that I can't remember. Without a parts manual and a service manual I couldn't do anything.

    Didn't seem like I got much done this weekend, I did fit the new wheel bearings, changed the front tire and balanced it.....

    [​IMG]

    Installed the tire and mocked up the front calipers to get the right shim spacing while I wait on pistons and brake pads. Started thinking about the wiring. I had rewired it once and felt pretty good about it, but I think I may change a few things, so that will probably take awhile. Believe I'll add acouple of those LED running lights for better visibility. And I can't remember that much about how to put the rear wheel back on. I'm sure I have to take off the rear drive, but hopefully not the swingarm. I'll read up on it a bit first.

    Have new brake lines on order too, although I made at least one new mistake. The new caliper I thought I had was actually for the front left, not the rear, so I think I need to order a new solid brake line for the rear caliper. The new one is the only one that wasn't all bent up.

    Plus, I need to get started prepping the tank for paint. I'll use POR15 to line it, but first I need to go visit my painter and see whether I can afford that now or may have to wait a bit. I bought a convert tank off ebay that's a bit rough. If I can get him to paint that one, I could break in the bike with the original tank. Ideally I'd like to get the saddlebags and the front fairing painted too, but that may be a bit too pricey. They're black now and look fairly decent. I think black would go pretty well with the color I'm planning for the tank.

    later, roy
    #21
  2. JonnyCash

    JonnyCash turd polisher

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    you certainly do not have to take off the bevel box to remove/install the rear wheel.
    #22
  3. Egoland

    Egoland Adventurer

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    #23
  4. flemsmith

    flemsmith lurk

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    I'm waiting for a rear wheel spacer that is on order before I re-install the rear wheel. What I took off was homemade and pretty cobbled up....I'll give it a go without trying to take off the bevel drive, but just looking at things, it's not obvious to me how I'm gonna do it.

    Just got over the flu, still feeling a bit weak, so not much progress lately. I did get the calipers rebuilt, ordered some Spiegler brake lines to replace the old rubber hoses, and I'm waiting on new solid brake lines. The ones I had were pretty bent up as the PO had put the front calipers behind the forks instead of in front and just bent the hoses and solid lines to make things work.

    A little story. My dad was a heavy duty equip mechanic, early in his life. The story he told was that his first job interview went: "Theres a tractor engine over there that's all in pieces. If you can get it back together and running, you've got the job." I've always been a bit intimidated that he could have done that. I can't do much of anything without a parts manual, a service manual, and being able to take things apart myself, and then put it back together before I forget how it came apart. When I get to the rear wheel install stage, I'll slow down and take pix/ ask for advice if I get stuck.

    Thanks again. roy
    #24
  5. RedRaptor22

    RedRaptor22 Been here awhile

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    I'm not sure if the Avon roadriders are different from pretty much every other tire but it looks like that front is on backwards, usually the front tread is opposite directions from the rear, belts are laid a certain way to either take acceleration forces or braking forces, unless that's a bias ply I'd flip it.
    #25
  6. flemsmith

    flemsmith lurk

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    I saw that after I thought I had it mounted right. Turns out the disks did not align with the calipers til I turned the whole wheel around the other way. And I was trying to be so careful. Good news is that the front tire comes off real easily. Bad news is that my record so far on mounting tube tires without pinching is not much better than 50%. I was happy this one didn't end up with a leak, we'll see how happy I am when I try to turn it around. I'm pretty impressed that you caught me so quickly. For now I'm gonna put that on my to do list sometime in the future. Hopefully I'll remember to do it before I actually fire it up and start the ol debug process. How bad would it be if I fired it up first and changed that when I was ready for the first oil change and head retorque? Doubt I'd be doing anything agressive before then.

    Guess it's a good thing to be sharing all my dirty laundry way out in the open like this. Plenty of sharp eyes to keep me honest.

    And today I found out that I never actually ordered the rear wheel spacer part I've been waiting for....duh. At least it feels good to be over the flu finally.

    roy
    #26
  7. Greg Bender

    Greg Bender Long timer

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    Hi Roy,

    Thanks for sending me a link to your build here on ADV Rider :>

    If you want to have a go a bending up your own solid replacement brake lines, let me know. I've got the proper tool for it and the solid line stock is inexpensive.

    Regards,

    Gregory Bender
    #27
  8. Greg Bender

    Greg Bender Long timer

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    Nice link! Jens Lyck did a good job of translating almost all of his content into English from Danish. I'm sure you know about this, but there is a "Danish | English" toggle at the top of the left column on all pages. This is particularly helpful for those of us not blessed with the native ability to read Danish :> :> :>

    Regards,

    Gregory Bender
    #28
  9. JonnyCash

    JonnyCash turd polisher

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    Yes, Jens Lyck's tech articles were a godsend when I took my bottom end apart, as well as shimming the gearbox. There was a lot there that fear I would have missed without this resource. Thanks, Gregory, for making available to all of us!
    #29
  10. flemsmith

    flemsmith lurk

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    Well, almost, I probably wouldn't try rolling it around til I get at least the front brake all together and bled. But I realized it would be so much easier to change out the front tire direction if I did it now before I started bleeding the brakes, so now the front tire is rotating in the proper direction. Although I maintained my hamfisted tire changing ability by puncturing another tube. The disgusting part is that when I was 15, my first job in a service station was that I was the main tire changing fool. And I thought I was pretty good at it too. Well, although I didn't scratch the rims (any more than they already were), I suspect no one will believe me because both of them are already scratched all to hell.

    [​IMG]

    So now, the next thing I need to ponder is how to deal with the headlight connectors. Kinda long story, but the short version is that the molex connectors were pretty buggered up when I started working on the wiring last summer, so I bought all new connectors online, and the little tool that lets me extract the pins and I set to work replacing them. It turns out that the connector pairs I bought don't actually latch together, it's almost like they both are expecting to go thru bulkhead fittings or some such hunk of metal with the proper hole l x w.....
    By the time I figured out what was wrong, I already had it ready to ride, so I gave it a little try-out, and one of the connector pairs just came apart, I guess I was hoping the pin forces would hold them together. So I ended up using RTV to anchor them together...solved that problem, but it looks like crap, and now that I have it apart again, I should really try to find the proper connectors and fix it so I'm not ashamed of the way it looks.

    [​IMG]

    See the little tabs on the side of the three pin connector? That's what I need on the males of the larger ones in order to actually latch the females from the wiring harness together with the male connections from inside the bucket. Without those, I'm gonna have to resort to the RTV again....I think I'll spend a little time looking harder before I decide which way to go. As added incentive, I bought an ebay metal Aprilla headlamp bucket that looks a lot nicer than the plastic one that came with my bike. So I don't really mind redoing those connectors, if I can find the proper males with the latching tabs. Anyone knows a source, I'm appreciative in advance.

    Greg, Thanks for the solid brake line suggestion. Unfortunately, I already have the originals on order, and unless I manage to mess them up, I think they'll probably look and work better than anything I could bend myself.
    #30
  11. flemsmith

    flemsmith lurk

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    Almost forgot. I got in the little spacer I needed for the rear wheel, and I have to say, it was a piece of cake fitting it in the bevel drive without having to remove anything! It was actually a tight fit, and required the disc brake carrier to rotate upside down until I got the bevel drive gear to seat, then there was all kindsa room. The larger dia end of the axle works as a perfect spacer, makes you respect the italian engineers who made it this easy to work on. I'm so happy about that, I didn't even mind it when I realized I only balanced the front wheel, so the rear will get to come off again. No big deal, and besides, I'm used to doing things two or three times before I get mad at myself.

    [​IMG]

    Kinda reminds me of a guy I used to work with, had an old corvette. Told me he decided to get rid of it when he crawled out from under it all pissed off at something he couldn't get to fit, and started kicking the rear fender til he managed to break the fiberglass. Lesson I learned from him is that you should expect to do things up to three times before you get it right...without getting mad.

    later, roy
    #31
  12. BubbaJim

    BubbaJim Adventurer

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    [

    [​IMG]

    See the little tabs on the side of the three pin connector? That's what I need on the males of the larger ones in order to actually latch the females from the wiring harness together with the male connections from inside the bucket. Without those, I'm gonna have to resort to the RTV again....I think I'll spend a little time looking harder before I decide which way to go. As added incentive, I bought an ebay metal Aprilla headlamp bucket that looks a lot nicer than the plastic one that came with my bike. So I don't really mind redoing those connectors, if I can find the proper males with the latching tabs. Anyone knows a source, I'm appreciative in advance.

    Greg, Thanks for the solid brake line suggestion. Unfortunately, I already have the originals on order, and unless I manage to mess them up, I think they'll probably look and work better than anything I could bend myself.[/QUOTE]

    Hi, Try http://www.stein-dinse.biz/ for the block connectors that you require. They have a great range of Guzzi items and a particularly user friendly website. I know they are on the other side of the pond from you but they may be the answer to this particular spare parts issue and others that may arise.

    Great work you are doing on your goose and a great thread. Well done!
    #32
  13. Greg Bender

    Greg Bender Long timer

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    Stein Dinse is great, no doubt about it. I think I have you covered on these, though, right here in Arizona. Give me a call and we'll chat about what I have and the various ones you need.

    Regards,

    Gregory Bender
    #33
  14. flemsmith

    flemsmith lurk

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    But I'm planning to use the Bunn breather system rather than the MG breather box, so I thought I could show a pix or two of the connections before I get it too cluttered up with all that wiring stuff. For anyone not familiar with it, just google, and you'll find Rex Bunn in Australia has a pretty simple valving and breather arrangement that has all kindsa technical write-ups about its advantages for a four stroke small engine, and I'm kinda a sucker for trying things that are supposed to be better than factory, (especially if they originated from an individual rather than some big corporation). We'll see when I actually start the break-in process. So here's the basic arrangment, a single tube thru a filter arrangement that acts as the guzzinta to the big breather connection on the top of the crankcase. It actually has two litlle plastic filter/valving components, the second one is hidden inside the large hose, just because that was the way I did the connections. (I'll probably put a little K&N style filter on the open end once I see how much room is left under the gas tank from all the wiring.) Can't see it too clearly here, but there's also a smaller breather fitting on top of the crankcase, and it's just plugged with a closed hose.
    [​IMG]

    And then each valve cover is vented, with the tube running upwards to the frame, then terminating in a little one-way valve down behind the tranny, you can see one of them in the next picture.

    [​IMG]

    This pix probably redundant, but it does show the crancase breather connection from the other side view.

    [​IMG]
    As with everything I show on this thread, if anyone has already done this and sees me doing something wrong, don't be shy about calling me on it. Otherwise, I'm still waiting on the solid brake lines, and hopefully the proper molex connectors that will let me rewire the headlamp connections so they don't look quite so amateurish. later, roy
    #34
  15. Greg Bender

    Greg Bender Long timer

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    Hi Roy,

    Looking good! :>

    Do those larger diameter coils still permit you to mount the side cover?

    I'm really interested to learn how the Bunn breather works out for you. Was it plug-n-play, or did you need to supply your own hoses and clamps and pretty much "adapt" his unit to the Guzzi?

    Regards,

    Gregory Bender
    #35
  16. flemsmith

    flemsmith lurk

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    Greg,

    I had them mounted like that before I tore it apart, and the side cover fit perfectly over. They're mounted to a little plate that's recessed about a half inch back into the battery space.

    The Bunn components came with two hose sizes, roughly 5/16 and 1/4". I ordered some 3/4" ID from McMaster-Carr and some reducers, I also ordered a bit more tubing length, just cause I wanted to run the valve cover vents back out of the way behind the tranny. I think that's all I needed so far. Always a good chance I'll need to relocate something when I get the brake, clutch and shift linkage all connected.

    I've been looking at the main harness, and someone has run the wire to the starter relay external to the 15 pin plug. Are you aware of any reason that should be necessary as long as I'm replacing that plug anyhow?

    thanks,

    roy
    #36
  17. Greg Bender

    Greg Bender Long timer

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    Hi Roy,

    There shouldn't be any reason for that. It should be a white/black wire that provides the ground (through the handlebar) to terminal 85 of the starter relay. This wire should be position number 3 of the Molex 15 terminal connector. There is very little load on this wire...not sure why anyone would want to run it external? Perhaps the starter failed to actuate at some point and this was part of their diagnostics???

    Regards,

    Gregory Bender
    #37
  18. dancerdave

    dancerdave Been here awhile

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    Last fall I found a 1979 v1000g5 police model In a barn in very rural Kentucky .. Almost rusted down but it is now living but needs lots of attention and I hope that this old hard head can learn something from you.. Keep up the good work. I love the look of your new old bike.
    #38
  19. flemsmith

    flemsmith lurk

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    I thought if I waited to start this little log til after I had the engine and the tranny back and ready to build around, mebbe I could keep up wihtout long stretches of nada...so far I'm going slower than even I expected. I've been studying the wiring harness I ended up with, and with some consulting help from my local MG guru, I've decided to order a new main wiring harness.
    I could have just used the other one it was working before), but it looked pretty cobbled up, and I want to change the headlamp bucket and associated connectors anyway. I'll need to do a few modifications when it gets here... I have a set of those flashing LED arrays (Hyperlites) with the brake light, and I'm planning to put some 10W LED running lights on the front crash bars, plus I had already added Hi and Low beam relays inside the headlamp bucket, and I was pretty happy with that arrangement. Plus, I didn't like the fusebox that came with the bike, so I changed it to one that I got out of the local japanese bike junkyard, so that needs some splicing into the main cable. (It's pretty clear in the pix that shows the rear master cylinder. So while I wait on the new main harness and the solid brake lines ( they finally shipped and are on the way), I thought I'd see how hard it is to polish the valve covers...well, so far it's not a piece of cake, all those little contours and mini fins..., I need to hunt up some finer sanding drums for my dremel tool. Hopefully in a few days I can take pix of those.

    Aside, back to the wiring...I never could stand the use of a black wire to carry the signal from the front and rear brake switches; not to mention power to the horn...to me, black is gnd and only gnd. So I'm thinking of a better color to use for those wires. It's kinda back to wanting to make a change that I consider a little improvement. Hopefully I can find a striped color that has some black in it. It'll be non-standard guzzi-wise, but that's life. I usually end up drawing a wiring diagram anyway, I've never been that great at reading the ones that come in the book without redrawing it so I can understand all the details. later, roy
    #39
  20. waylongway

    waylongway madmax

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    Don't beat your self up..You are doing a fine job!!..Thease things take time, A LONG TIME ! And a LOT of money

    Been working on my custom 78 Le mans for 2 1/2 years on and off ..Just now thinking of running wires ,as soon as I get the battery Box done..Then maybe I can think about tearing it all down to powder coat :clap Maybe :cry
    Keep up the good work!!
    #40