78 Moto Guzzi T3

Discussion in 'Some Assembly Required' started by flemsmith, Dec 23, 2012.

  1. flemsmith

    flemsmith lurk

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    ....are not my forte. But those valve covers were just begging for me to try again. I'd asked the chrome plater who did the fenders how much he'd charge to chrome plate them, and he said $120 for both. Not too bad, but then he kept talking about the chrome just being a flash, and I was not happy the last time I had some rocker covers chrome plated (73 Ironhead Sporty), so I decided to try polishing them. Went thru quite a few sanding drums for my dremel tool, started at 60grit, went to 120, then it was hand work at 220. Along the way I went to Harbor Freight and bought some more of the dremel sanding tubes, some SS brushes and brass ones too, all for the dremel. Turns out the damn sanding tubes are just a tad too large, and spun off my dremel right away. (Wasn't there a thread somewhere about what to buy and not buy at HF? So I finished the first one (at least for now), and it looks pretty good at 5-10 ft, not so great at 3 ft.

    [​IMG]

    But it definitely looks better that the coarse casting. So on the next one, I was a bit more careful, making sure I got rid of the sanding marks as I went to finer sandpaper, ended up at 320, but still had a lot of trouble around all the small curvy parts.

    [​IMG]

    Not good enough that I'd be happy if I paid someone to do it, but much better than stock. So am I gonna redo the first one so it's at least this good? Not likely, and certainly not any time soon. I'm not crazy about this kinda work.
    On the other hand,...

    [​IMG]

    I kinda do like wiring. And Greg Bender was able to hlep me with the mating Molex connectors I need to redo the headlamp wiring, so now I'm just waiting on the new wiring harness and I'll have something to keep me entertained for at least a week or so at my rate of working. later, roy
    #41
  2. RedRaptor22

    RedRaptor22 Been here awhile

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    Lol I was'nt trying to call anyone out but after doing tires for the past few years you would be amazed at how many people insist you mount their fronts backwards because of the tread direction even after you show them the rotation arrows lol.

    Best trick I've found for not pinching tubes especially while hand mounting is to stuff them into the tire and put just enough air in them to make them round out, usually they push themselves deep down into the tire out of the way of your spoons and should still be soft enough to not give you problems getting the tire on, plus it makes getting the valve stem through the rim a bit easier since it pushes itself through, at least enough to get the stem nut on.
    #42
  3. kellymac530

    kellymac530 motorcycle addict

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    You need to go much farther into sanding grits.
    Lots of wet and dry minimum of of 600g but when I polish I usually got to 1200g and I use water and a drop of dish soap in it but rinse off the soap regularly.

    Lots of sanding.

    If you get full sheets of SP, cut the accross the center so that you have two 5-1/2 x 8-1/2 pieces and the fold those in 3rds. You end up with a 3 layer thick 5-1/2" x roughly 3" piece of SP.

    Let it soak for a few seconds in the tub of water with a couple drops of soap in it to slick it up. try to use as even of pressure as you can for flat sanding. Do not use your fingers, it will make it bumpy and show in the polied finish.

    You can use a piece of plastic or hard rubber with a slight rounded edge to sand in between the fins or ridges. Patience is a virtue on polish prep. Better prep better finish, like paint work. Prep, prep, prep then when you are done prep a bit more.
    #43
  4. flemsmith

    flemsmith lurk

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    So I've installed them, just finger tight while I make sure I've got everything in the right place. So fer instance:

    [​IMG]

    I had two of these support wire/grommet thingies; here's where I ended up thinking they should go. First one holding the rear caliper solid line steady as the swingarm goes up/down.....

    [​IMG]

    Second one holding the end of the long solid line steady as it connects to the flex line feeding the left front caliper. I'm attaching it to one of two frame tabs just above the regulator. Can't remember what else goes to those tabs... The front caliper lines seem pretty idiot-proof, with two fender holes for clamping the connection between the solid and flex lines. But I'm not so sure about the left front caliper flex line routing to tie into the long solid line....

    [​IMG]

    Does this look right, just running outside the frame? I also got the wiring harness, but I want to get this right first.

    Polishing...yeah, I figured I stopped too quick. Mebbe in the future. For now I've got other more fun things to do.

    later,

    roy
    #44
  5. flemsmith

    flemsmith lurk

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    I think I found a pix that shows me the proper way to run that left front caliper flex line. In case I (or anyone else) ever does this again and wonders, I'll put up a revised shot...

    [​IMG]

    Now off to think about wiring for a while. roy
    #45
  6. Greg Bender

    Greg Bender Long timer

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    That is pretty much how I ran mine and how I believe they were run from the factory. You'll want to check your clearances with the tank using that "P" clamp, though. I believe the original did not stick out so far.

    Regards,

    Gregory Bender
    #46
  7. flemsmith

    flemsmith lurk

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    .....slowly. And I've actually been trying, it's just that re-wiring is slow work, and the way I'm doing it is even slower. I can't seem to do much with the original wiring diagrams unless I redraw them so I'm sure I understand. Plus, I'm changing a few things, even from the way I had it before, not to mention the new wiring harness, and replacing all the molex connectors. When I get all done and know everything is right, if anyone wants a cc of my wiring dia's, just pm me. So here's the new shinier headlight bucket, all new molex connectors, and they all latch now (thanks mostly to Greg Bender).

    [​IMG]

    The 5 terminal relay will run the lights Hi and Lo, and the smaller one will run the LED running lights I'm thinking I'll mount on the crashbars. Greg had a good idea, to run a new wire thru the main harness, changing the starter relay to a 5 terminal, and running the light relay coils off the NC contacts of the starter relay. That way they're on with the ignition switch, but off whenever the starter relay is energized. I have had some interesting times with the Molex connector pins. The male pins are no problem, the tool(s) I bought remove them just fine and they can be reinstalled in the new connectors no problem. The female pins are another story.

    [​IMG]

    Not a very good picture, but if you look closely at the top third of this teminal, you can almost see that the tool bent the latching tab almost double when I took it out of the old connector. This happened to nearly every female contact I tried to remove. Luckily they're not that hard to replace with new contacts, and I have plenty as a result of trying to buy latching connectors that weren't really latching. Not sure what I should be doing different, and at this point, I'm fairly happy to just cut the old ones off and replace them anew. I think I bought three different Molex pin installing tools, and none of them really worked well for the females....Of course, I broke one last summer, so I don't remember if it worked any better. The only remaining molex I need to deal with is on the end of the main wiring harness, and it needs replacing because (big surprise) it isn't the proper latching connector. Once I do that, I'm ready to start installing the main harness. There will need to be a fair amount of custom connections at the back due to the 5 terminal starter relay, the non std fuse box (not sure what bike it came from, but I got it at my friendly Japanese MC junkyard). And the rear brake hyperlights. Wiring is slow, not very exciting in pix, but it's pretty important to get it right with good solid connections, good gnds to the frame, and hopefully no abused insulation in any of the tight spaces. More when I have more to ask. roy
    #47
  8. JonnyCash

    JonnyCash turd polisher

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    What is that relay looking thing at the 2 o'clock position in your headlight bucket? I don't have that in mine.
    #48
  9. flemsmith

    flemsmith lurk

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    It's for the LED running lights I'm gonna mount on the crashbars. I make sure I have extra lights on all my bikes, rear brake flashing hyperlights, and front running lights.. Lately I've been using those 10W LED running lights; kinda pricey, but they definitely help make you visible. I'm not so concerned with lighting up the road on this bike as I am with making sure other folks see me before they turn in front of me. At less than an amp draw each, they may not really need a relay, but this way I can run battery power directly to them thru the relay rather than picking up 12v someplace that might not like being loaded down. I'm a little unsure how much to trust the alternator output on this bike. I'll also probably use the same relay output to run a voltmeter; makes me feel more comfy seeing the voltage I expect rather than wondering what's going on in the electrics. roy
    #49
  10. waylongway

    waylongway madmax

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    #50
  11. JonnyCash

    JonnyCash turd polisher

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    Not that it couldn't be improved upon, but the charging system on these Guzzis is the same as on my R100/5. Really, exactly the same, believe it or not. I have lived with that for almost twenty years, and NEVER had any problems with it. You've done a very nice job on this project, and I look forward to seeing it completed.
    #51
  12. flemsmith

    flemsmith lurk

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    OK, here's one place I definitely need some feedback. Background if you haven't been following along (skip to pix if you have) The main harness connector to the headlight I could not find with positive latches that kept it from coming disconnected; (my original wiring harness had been pretty butchered, which included the 15 pin main harness connector). I had at one time RTV'd it to the headlamp bucket, and although ugly, that seemed to work, but now with all new parts I'm trying to do things right. The first picture shows a left turn, the harness stretched to the max, the second the opposite. I need some input on how best to orient, run, strain relief or not, the harness. (While you're at it, I'd appreciate any comments on whether the throttle cables should be going thru the frame hole with the grommet like I now have it.) That's the way it was when I took it apart, and it seems like it could handle turns ok that way....
    [​IMG]

    The P clamp is not connected, just something I was thinking about...
    OK, so now in a right turn, you can see the harness wanting to bend outward from the frame...
    [​IMG]

    My first thought is to use the Pclamp to keep it close to the frame where it will be under the gas tank, and to tighten the Pclamp on the cable where a left turn has enough cable room not to try to pull the connector apart, and in the right turn situation, the harness will be clamped close enough to the frame that it doesn't want to fray on the underside of the gas tank. Not sure if I need to do any more strain relief type stuff on the back of the headlamp, for now I think not. I never found exactly the right female 15 pin Molex connector, even though I ordered a number, so I used one that had small metal dimples inside to give a little extra friction, and drilled shallow matching relief divots in the male version. Works pretty well, but I don't want to push my luck with more pull-apart strain. It won't matter if it is strained in the push together position (right turn). Seems like a trivial thing to need help on, but that's pretty normal for me. Once I'm comfy with this, I'm ready to start wiring up the back end of the harness. That shouldn't take too long compared to the last coupla weeks. Thanks in advance if you have any input for me. roy
    #52
  13. JonnyCash

    JonnyCash turd polisher

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    You definitely don't want the throttle cables going that way. On mine, they were run straight back the longitudinal frame rails . For one thing I don't think you'll be able to get the tank on there the way it is, and secondly, that way makes a hard turn for the cables. I also don't think that wire clamp you have there is going to fit either. Sorry to be a wet blanket.
    #53
  14. flemsmith

    flemsmith lurk

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    No, that's exactly the feedback I'm looking for. I'm very literal; I can do ok if I have the right detailed info to go by; and I can get in trouble pretty quickly when I'm trying to figure out things by myself. I changed to a smaller P clamp that'll make sure I have enough harness room for a left turn, and I'll reroute the throttle cables. I'm working on the back end wiring now, that'll take me a little while. I might as well wire in the Dyna electronic ignition while I'm at it. Plus I ordered a waterproof voltmeter that's not here yet. Will update when I've actually got something to show. By the way, what the heck does go thru the grommets if anything?

    Thx again,

    roy
    #54
  15. Greg Bender

    Greg Bender Long timer

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    I concur. I think I may have used a very loose zip tie just to keep the throttle cable routed up front there when I was routing everything, but nothing more than that.

    Regards,

    Gregory Bender
    #55
  16. JonnyCash

    JonnyCash turd polisher

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    I dont have the grommet there, but my bike has been hacked up a lot. The wiring that goes to the front brake light switch goes through that hole in the frame(no grommet) on the other side.
    #56
  17. flemsmith

    flemsmith lurk

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    I was looking at the Dyna III ignition module I bought some time ago, and it says it needs to work with coils that have at least 5 ohms primary resistance. I'm pretty partial to the ones I have already, and they're 3 ohms. Wonder if the output amps really can't drive 3 ohms? Since they sell what looks like the same unit for BMW's that are rated for 3 ohm, I'm wondering if they really have a weaker output drive, or just a more conservative instruction sheet? I'm almost inclined to try them anyway, and just not go far from home for the first 100 mi or so in case they go belly-up. But, on the other hand, I'll probably worry about them too much to relax. If anyone has real world knowledge, I'd be interested.
    #57
  18. Luke

    Luke GPoET&P

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    Sorry, no real world experience; but here's some theory:

    According to the wiring diagrams in the instructions, the BMW coils are wired in series with a crossover wire connecting one coil to the other. This makes the total resistance that the driver sees double the resistance of each coil, so 6 ohms. The Guzzi diagram has a separate output driving each coil, so it's totally reasonable that they'd say the coils need to be 5 ohms minimum for the Guzzi setup since the BMW setup calls for coils with 3 ohms minimum.


    I suggest either switching coils or using ballast resistors to lower the current to what dynatek recommends. 2 ohm resistors with a minimum power rating of 15 watts should be right. A pair of 1 ohm 10W resistors in series for each coil would be easier to find if you're buying parts locally.
    #58
  19. Greg Bender

    Greg Bender Long timer

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    Hi Roy,

    I am running 3 ohm coils with a Dyna III on my I-Convert and that set up is working very well for me over the past several thousand miles now. Have a read here, the instructions clearly state that 3 ohm coils are to be used:

    http://thisoldtractor.com/gtbender/...electronic_ignition_installation_instructions

    That being said, the instructions from Dyna have been less than crystal clear over the years and there is some degree of confusion over what should be done. Personally, I stuck with 3 ohm coils (Pertronix flamethrowers) and the Dyna III. It has been working flawlessly for me. I did ground it as instructed - I believe that is key for longevity.

    Regards,

    Gregory Bender
    #59
  20. waylongway

    waylongway madmax

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    OK here we go..I try-ed to find all the info on this before I bought my coils For my 78 850. Then asked Steve at bevel heaven and this is what he said..

    5 ohm for everything but race bike installationÂ….

    Steve Allen www.BevelHeaven.com

    But I do have the dual spark heads. But Don't Know For sure??

    Maybe you should ask Ed Mulch,No offense to you Greg! I may (WILL) need your help Later!
    #60