78 Moto Guzzi T3

Discussion in 'Some Assembly Required' started by flemsmith, Dec 23, 2012.

  1. waylongway

    waylongway madmax

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    Here you go Roy,

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    And this is what it looks like under the clips ,like Greg said don't mess w/them if you can get away w/ it....
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    Fun stuff!!

    Cheer's,Eric
    #81
  2. flemsmith

    flemsmith lurk

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    I know what I need to do now. So I'm off to the painter tomorrow, then we'll see what other little problems I can uncover.

    roy
    #82
  3. flemsmith

    flemsmith lurk

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    ....leaving the entire gas cap protrusion surface nickel plated and not painted...Painting only the outside tank surface that meets up with the gas cap assembly.

    Alternative is to do what you did, Eric, paint all the way up to the gasket mating surface, and cover that interface with epoxy, he says he's always used JB Weld, although I have some Loctite epoxy that's more gas impervious, I might talk him into using that. Got a coupla weeks before he's at that stage to decide.

    I guess another alternative would be to do what he says, then paint a thin layer of epoxy over the paint right under (at the intersection of) the tank surface and the cap assembly. decisions, decisions... roy
    #83
  4. waylongway

    waylongway madmax

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    Making all the decisions is 1/2 the battle.:hmmmmm
    #84
  5. flemsmith

    flemsmith lurk

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    Life stuff getting in the way. OK for me, but lousy fer the thread. Rebuilt both carbs, used 24 hr Pine Sol dip as first step. Usual extremely detailed step-by-step on Greg's site, This Old Tractor. Only issues in the rebuild were having to order insulating gaskets for the intakes, and the bolts that hold them, also the carb inlet fuel filter is not part of the rebuild kit. But on the right carb, the previous owner or mechanic had driven the float pivot rod so far into the body of the carb that I can't get it out without tearing up the floats and probably the rod. Will check and see if I can order the rod, and if so, will probably get a set of floats just for standby. Meanwhile, on that carb, I just cleaned around the float needle, hoping for the best.

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    The right carb fit fairly well, gonna hafta relocate the battery tender lead, and mebbe tie the Bunn breather hose a little different, also need to look for good example of the throttle cable routing..

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    The left carb won't fit without some re-routing, both the positive and negative battery cables need to move, not a big deal me thinks, just need to yank the battery first. The intake venturi tubes do fit inside the K&N's, just needed a little bit of heat gun to get the rubber a bit more compliant. I'm a little surprised that I don't need some sort of sealant between the intake manifolds and the carb body, fits really tight, but it's just metal to metal, seems like it could give me an air leak.

    roy
    #85
  6. Greg Bender

    Greg Bender Long timer

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    Hi Roy,

    Those float pivot pins can be a bear. Some people tend to think then need to be driven into place. I just lightly set mine in there...it isn't like they can back out or go anywhere once the float bowl is in place. With the really tough ones, sometimes I can use a side cutter to get a better grab on them.

    In your photos, you have the throttle cables on backwards. The end showing (with the metal elbow) fits to the throttle. The other end of the cable should just be the black cable with the little end cap on it. That is what fits into the adjuster on top of your carburetor.

    As for routing, I bring them both straight up and a bit forward such that the cables are routed between the frame and the tank. The left one I route over to the right side under the top frame backbone. I leave both cables loose. I do use a *very loose* cable tie to keep them running together toward the right front of the tank (where they exit between the frame and the tank.

    Your transmission vent (behind the starter) should not run straight down. Yes, I know it makes sense to run it like that, but it will puke oil like crazy when you run it straight down. Instead, route it straight up as high as you can. Then, you can either run it as far forward as you like or as far rearward as you like. When it is routed like this, it functions a bit like an engine breather and you will not have trouble with gear oil puking out of the vent hose (as it will all run back into the transmission).

    Your battery ground cable will work great where you have it grounded (no worries). Originally, it would have been routed to the right side of the battery tray and secured to the bolt that goes through the right "ear" on the battery tray. Again, there is no need to change it around unless you want to.

    I hope this helps!

    Regards,

    Gregory Bender
    #86
  7. flemsmith

    flemsmith lurk

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    Exactly the kind of input I was looking for. Not sure I can even grab the end of the float rod with side cutters, but I'm not too worried, worst case I can buy a new one with new floats and cut this one off with my dremel tool. The other inputs are quite helpful, will advise when I get some free time to actually correct them. It all appears quite do-able.

    roy
    #87
  8. waylongway

    waylongway madmax

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    #88
  9. flemsmith

    flemsmith lurk

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    Cyndi and I just got back from a trip to the north coast of Oregon and then down to Calif as far as Crescent City. We've always loved the redwoods, and coming from Az, it's always nice to go see the ocean.

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    I didn't ride the whole way, but for some of the nicer stretches, Cyndi drove the Van with the dogs and I got to ride. Otherwise, we used the bike for local sightseeing. At any rate, I have done nothing on the T3 for a good month now, just finished ordering some parts that will take another week or so, but I did get a call from the painter today, should be able to pick up the tank and side covers in a coupla days. That should be exciting (at least for an old guy). Will do a few pix then. Meanwhile, lotsa other stuff getting in the way for a few weeks yet. sorry. roy
    #89
  10. flemsmith

    flemsmith lurk

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    Always exciting to get newly painted pieces...I may take a while getting used to this, it came out a little gaudier than I expected/remembered.
    It's Harley Black Cherry, which is what my little brother has on his Road King. His looks black in the shade, and sorta red/maroonish in the sun. Since I haven't seem his bike since he moved to Fla a few years ago, I was thinking it was a bit more subtle than this.

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    Here's a pix not in the direct sunlight, not as black as I was expecting.



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    And with the sidecovers in the Az sunlight...

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    Well, it did come out flawless, and in the garage it looks a good bit closer to black. And the sidebags are staying black....I'm thinking it'll grow on me, and I'm sure there won't be any others like it. Now I just need to make sure I can get the cap back on the tank without scratching anything. I do like the Nickel plating inside the tank and around the gas cap sealing surface. I couldn't have done as good a job with POR 15. Waiting for some little parts for the petcocks before I can really get it ready to mount. And new throttle cables to correct the reverse ones that Greg pointed out.
    More when I do more...summers getting here and my normal work day of two hours gets cut down in the summer....roy
    #90
  11. Greg Bender

    Greg Bender Long timer

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    I think I like the paint, Roy. Different, to be sure. But not in a bad way. I'm anxious to see it mounted up with all of the black, aluminum, and chrome colors to set it off. :>

    Regards,

    Gregory Bender
    #91
  12. flemsmith

    flemsmith lurk

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    I like to use cable ties to support my OCD impulses, usually overdo it...

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    So when I start trying to fit the tank there are a coupla problems...First, this little clamp places the brake line too low and it wedges between the side of the gas tank and the frame.

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    So I ended up running the brake line above the crash bar and tossing the clamp. Not sure yet if this little cable tie will stay.

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    The other side had a similar problem with the wiring harness and a bigger clamp of the same variety. I tossed it as well and replaced it with a cable tie that I think should stay. Cable tie helps flatten the wire bundle against the frame so it shouldn't chafe against the inside of the tank.

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    So far so good, now here's a question I may need advice with....One of my mufflers had some obvious welding on the end. Not terrible, but I thought I'd try buying just one replica OEM type muffler for looks. Turns out the one I bought has the same exact numbers as the originals, but look at the difference.

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    Oops! sorry for the sideways pix, but not only are there a lot more holes for better flow(?) in the originals, but they are stainless, and the replica is chrome. I may just get it going with the originals, as I remember they sounded pretty good. Being stainless, they cleaned up pretty well with diminishing grades of sandpaper, although I didn't knock myself out.

    Funny how many little things in the hose/wire routing that I want to change before I get close to starting it up. Good news is big brown came to visit today, so I have the new throttle cables and the petcock gaskets. One of my petcocks feels like it needs rebuilding. And I'm not at all happy with my foot brake adjustment, it was hitting the footpeg bracket. I managed to adjust it out with spacers, but I still don't think it's right. later, roy
    #92
  13. JonnyCash

    JonnyCash turd polisher

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    I think I have some of the little metal clips that hold the front brake line against the frame, where you're having trouble with tank clearance. I'll take a look. I'll give them to you if you want them. They are a lower profile than what you have.
    #93
  14. JonnyCash

    JonnyCash turd polisher

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    Did you sort out your carb/ filter clearance issue? I had a really hard time (I have the same filters), and in the end, I ended up using a right side intake manifold on both sides, thankfully I had another set of manifolds so to swap around. It worked out great. Your bike is so much prettier than mine that it's not funny. When I rebuilt my RD350, I made everything all polished and new, thinking that i would then be good about keeping it clean. I was wrong. Therefore, when doing this T3 of mine, I went all out on the mechanicals, but was a bit more cavalier about the aesthetics.
    #94
  15. flemsmith

    flemsmith lurk

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    I won't really know for sure until I get it running and see what the vibration does to the spacings I have now. It looks like I have clearance, but that could easily go away when it's running. At least now that I know what I'm looking for, there are some options I can use to fix it. I'm not above cutting away part of the rubber battery tray lip if that's all it takes. Thanks for the offer of the frame clip(s), I dunno exactly what they are, but I'm interested.

    As far as looks, I didn't start out thinking I'd be doing this, but once I got it all apart, I thought it would be fun, and it has been. I generally keep bikes a long time, and that's what I have in mind with this one.

    Do you have any pix of your foot brake linkage? ie, when depressed, is the brake lever still above the foot peg bracket, or does it clear it to the inside? Something is not right with mine.

    roy
    #95
  16. JonnyCash

    JonnyCash turd polisher

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    Dang, I forgot to look for the clips...tomorrow I'll find them. I can't help you with the brake linkage. Though mine started life as a T3, it now has the rear end from a T, and therefore is totally different.
    #96
  17. flemsmith

    flemsmith lurk

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    ...and after messing around with routing, here's the way I'm thinking I'll route them for gas tank mounting/clearance. Originally they were going thru the big frame grommet, but one of them had a pretty good bend in it. I tried not to use cable ties too tightly, but I did use some to make sure I knew they would stay out of the way as I put the tank on and off.

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    Here's a one-sided view of the baby buggy rubber bumper and the throttle cable clearance in front of it. Obviously I need to replace that Bunn breather neoprene hose with something a bit more substantial. It's way too flimsy for the way I'm routing it.

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    I think this will work ok. Anyone knows better based on experience, I'm all ears. later, roy
    #97
  18. Greg Bender

    Greg Bender Long timer

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    Hi Roy,

    I think your throttle cable routing is good where it exits the front of the tank. On the sides, however, I would not route the cables between the tank and the rubber tank mounts. Instead, I would route them pretty much straight up and inward, well back of the rubber tank mounts - then route them forward.

    I suspect you might need to move the side tank mounting rubbers further forward. I don't know for sure, but I certainly needed to move them forward on my I-Convert. Further forward kept the tank from being pulled too far downward into the cylinders, IIRC. I recommend that you play around with the various positions. I'm still not sure if my center tank rubber mount is doing anything worthwhile, but the two side ones are definitely where I need them to be. A good flashlight is very helpful when trying to make sure everything is where it should be.

    Also keep in mind that the front of your seat will contact the front of the tank. Yes, it will rub on it. I've seen guys put a towel in there to prevent it rubbing off the paint. But, I don't worry about it (and I think the towel looks a bit silly). I mention this because the final position of the tank is related to the position of the seat.

    Honestly, the tank and seat mounts are one of the things that frustrate me about the early Tonti framed machines. The Loop framed machines were much easier: the tank was bolted in one location with rubber bushings, and the seat also bolted in place without any need of bottom rubber bushings. Done and done with no muss or fuss. All the same, get the Tonti correct and you won't have to mess with it again (or at least not much).

    I hope this helps!

    Regards,

    Gregory Bender
    #98
  19. waylongway

    waylongway madmax

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    Greg Bender;. I'm still not sure if my center tank rubber mount is doing anything worthwhile, but the two side ones are definitely where I need them to be.

    I ended up putting a rubber stopper on the top frame rail toward the back of the tank ,with out all the tank weight sitting on just the bottom ones ,Now its solid when I strap it down ...
    #99
  20. Greg Bender

    Greg Bender Long timer

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    I'll take a look at that, thanks!

    Regards,

    Gregory Bender