800GS Care Package

Discussion in 'Parallel Universe' started by Douf, Jan 27, 2009.

  1. Nemesis

    Nemesis just ride the damn thing

    Jan 8, 2004
    a van down by the river
    WD-40 works fine, very well in fact. In Helge Pedersen's R1150GS video it's used as the tire removal and installation lube.

  2. Uncle Pollo

    Uncle Pollo Long timer

    Jun 1, 2006
    Albuquerque, Neue Messico
    The thing that you cannot install while on the trail, and talks to the key so makes the bike worthless if it fails.

    However .... the bike is worthless if stolen, reducing the posibility of theft.
  3. foobar

    foobar I remain calm

    Aug 21, 2008
    For those interested, I swapped my Battlewings for TKC80s yesterday. Here's a list of all the tools I used (with a question to the experts):

    E12 - F Brake Caliper
    T30 - F ABS Sensor, R Speed Sensor
    T45 - F Axle Clamps
    17MM - F Axle Screw
    24MM - R Axle Nut
    13MM - R Chain Tensioners
    12MM - Valve Stem Nut (multi-tool would work fine here)

    ...OR just carry a couple different sizes of Vice Grips! :rofl

    Also...Beak Brakr from BestRest - includes Tire Irons, Rim Protectors (need 'em but even with 'em I managed to ding my rim), Valve Stem removal, Bead Goop (you REALLY, REALLY need goop)
    Floor Jack - Front Wheel removal.

    QUESTION: what do folks use in the field to get the front end off of the ground? (I have the center stand which makes rear removal a cinch but used the floor jack for the front.)

    I don't want to bore everyone with all the gruesome details of my adventures but in a nutshell:

    - Wheel removal/installation - EASY
    - Tire Removal/Installation - HARD. REALLY HARD (this was full tire removal; opening up one side for tube removal/repair would be easier).

    I've read all the various tire removal threads, etc, and paid attention to the debates over brute strength vs technique. Clearly technique is important but I found that in at least one instance (getting the second edge of tire off of rim) I had to resort to force heavily seasoned with a LOT of swearing.

    My verdict: everyone should practice removing both wheels and removing/replacing the tube in your garage so you're ready for basic tire maint in the field. Personally however, unless I'm in a particularly masochistic frame of mind, I'm going to puss out and use a shop to mount new tires. It's one of those things that's good to know how to do but, unless there's no other option, it's better left to someone with the tools/knowledge. I'm just sayin'...
  4. Bayner

    Bayner Long timer

    Mar 27, 2008
    Penticton, BC
    You should be able to remove the rear wheel without having to reset chain tension every time, no? Pull the adjuster block off one side and knock the axle out the far side enough to slide the axle forward. Other bikes I have there's enough slack by the time the axle hits the adjuster screw that you can slip the chain off. (It took me a few times to figure that out mind you...)
  5. MonsterJ

    MonsterJ I have motopsychosis

    Sep 16, 2008
    Bay Area, CA
    kkug had a great idea here:

    I'm gonna whittle me one up soon.
  6. foobar

    foobar I remain calm

    Aug 21, 2008
    I had the same thought while I was doing it but had already loosened things up per the Owners Manual. At a minimum, you should note the markings in a notebook or with a pencil on the guide so you know where it was before removal (I had that thought at about same time - AFTER loosening).

    Thanks for the link - looks perfect.
  7. RedHawk47

    RedHawk47 Adventurer

    Oct 5, 2006
    Berthoud, CO
    An important step in the processes that most tire changing instruction get backwards.
    1. Start the tire removal process at the valve stem (or the rim lock if it has one)
    2. Finish the tire installation process at the valve stem.
    The reason for doing it this way is so the bead can drop into the center well of the rim and have maximum slack. If the valve stem is in the way...
  8. Travlr

    Travlr Adventurer

    Sep 22, 2008
    Southern Alberta
    Before this thread turns into a tire changing lesson. Some other care package items it have carried over the years in whatever bike I was riding at the time:

    1. Assortment of zip ties.
    2. Spare fuses.
    3. Assorment of nuts and bolts (bike specific).
    4. Small Rag (usually wrapped around the tools). Nice not to put greasy hands into your riding gloves.
    5. Electrical tape, and duct tape on long trips.
    These may be more general kit items and not so F8 specific, but sometimes the obvious gets overlooked.

    I heard about the key ring issue and thought that it could be changed on the road?? maybe not so easy as first thought. :scratch :scratch

    Also, the sacrificial plastic radiator holder/mount. It is relatively cheap$ and it designed to break away in a crash to help save the rad from damage. But, once it is broken, it may be hard to rig up some way to support the rad. Sooo, the actual replacement part will be part of my kit.
  9. Dert Gerl

    Dert Gerl Been here awhile

    Aug 30, 2007
    Prescott, AZ
    In regard to the replacement plastic radiator bracket ... it's not really a trail side repair. I just replaced mine a week or so ago and you have to drill out the rivets and put new ones in. You also have to bend the fins apart to get the back side of the old rivet out of the way for the new one. The radiator is pretty ugly when it's all said and done, but it still holds water. :D

    I think it's safe to say that some safety wire or creative zip tie engineering will get you home if you break the mounts and are still holding water, which was the case with mine. I didn't even know I had broken the mounts until I washed it the next day. Everything stayed in place for the most part.

    BTW ... I had to wait for mine to come from Germany when I ordered it because there were none in the US so I ordered 4 extra. I don't know if that's still the case. They're at my Farkle Fab site if anyone needs one in a pinch.
  10. itsatdm

    itsatdm Long timer

    Jun 19, 2004
    Nor Ca.
    A good mod that I think to make, is a 2 prong electric plug connected directly to the battery using heavy gauge wire. Mine exits near the steering head and I use it for the GPS, electric vest, airpump, margurita mixer, etc, as needed. Most importanly a set of jumper cables with like wire and plug along with alligator clips. :evil