800GS shock bolt design flaw?

Discussion in 'Parallel Universe' started by johngil, Jul 16, 2009.

  1. Indy Unlimited

    Indy Unlimited Long timer

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    Sorry it did not work. I have done about a dozen of them with a deep 13/16" socket that is 27mm O.D. and they all press out. The rubber from the inner bushing may have helped but I have done many on my press. I highly recommend a press to do a stock shock. Aftermarket shocks can be done with hand tools. Most bike shops can help you if you bring the shock in and ask them to press it out with a 13/16" socket
  2. HighTechCoonass

    HighTechCoonass Living the Dream....

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    yeap... If i wouldnt have pushed out the rubber bushing on "phase one" it would have been easier to keep everything aligned...

    It is a very nice unit Indy:clap... I can rest easy now... I was always worried about that stinking bolt... especially since I am now out of warranty!
    Ready for Utah now!!!





  3. stephen.stallebrass

    stephen.stallebrass Been here awhile

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    Fitted my Indy kit & Ohlins shock today... It really was easy! I used the socket trick to get the Indy race bearing into the upper shock mount and then swapped out the old shock for the new one. Not taken it out yet as I twisted my bloody ankle in the garden afterwards, which is throbbing, plus I need to set the sag, preload & rebound? That'll have to wait until 2mora. Thanks for all the great advice on this thread. I was gonna take some pictures as a tutorial, but there really is no need, it's so easy.

    [​IMG]

    :clap
  4. johngil

    johngil Reseda, CA

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    I left the Elka lip and ran slightly off center. Zero problems.
  5. Indy Unlimited

    Indy Unlimited Long timer

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    Thanks John,

    I prefer that we use a wider bearing but for those that don't want to remove the step but want to look centered I have a narrower bearing option that is the same width as the spherical bearings the aftermarket companies use.
  6. skamikazee

    skamikazee Noviço

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    Here's my EVIL-BUSHER-EXORCISM setup:

    [​IMG]

    Why oh why didn't i read the whole topic before spending the whole morning trying to remove the damn thing. :rofl
  7. ebrabaek

    ebrabaek Long timer

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    :lol3:lol3.......:thumb:thumb

    Erling
  8. Indy Unlimited

    Indy Unlimited Long timer

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    I dont recommend that technique on a stock shock. You need a 1- 13/16" deep socket or a metal cylinder that is 27 diameter or larger but smaller than 28 mm diameter and a receiving deep socket that has room for a 28 mm diameter bushing to fit in it. You will need to use a hydraulic press and at least 1 ton (1000 kg) of force to get it to budge.

    Sorry if that was not clear in earlier posts. Aftermarket shocks are a breeze.
  9. skamikazee

    skamikazee Noviço

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    It did work for me, the 30mm Socket is large enough to allow the bushing to slide inside without touching the socket, the stock spacer and screw are just the right size to pull the damn thing with a large thick washer to push the thing, once halfway through, a 27mm deep socket and a hammer slowly got it out.
    It wasn't easy, but it worked. Still, if only i'd spend less time looking at pretty pictures and more time reading the threads........:bash
    ....I would definitely taken the shock out and ask someone to press it out.

    ...great workout though:D
  10. Snowy

    Snowy Long timer

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    With the Ohlins shock pressing the bearing out was the easiest part of the operation. The rest was not difficult.

    I went with Indys kit and the Ralle Moto brace combo as per JohnGil.

    Using it for 2 up trail and dirt road riding I have just installed the 3rd new rear spring. It now has the same as the picture above with the 84/200. I think this is around the 21kg/mm mark.

    It works the best yet. With a revalve it doesn't bottom out like it did previously. It takes a fair hit to bottom now, even with a big load on. I would rate the current rear end set up as as close as I could hope to get considering the lack of adjustability with the Ohlins.

    The bottoming is what was doing the majority of the damage to the shock bolts.

    So, in Aus dollars, that's $1460 for the shock, and a further $800 in rebuilds and springs, plus another $250 in shock bolts and kits to fix shock bolts.

    Ohlins here appears to have no idea whatsoever about what spring rates to use. I was very specific about what I was going to use it for and the exact weights it would carry. Their recommended spring was some 5kg/mm lighter than what I ended up with.


    I didn't use the O-rings that came with the Indy kit. I made some alloy spacers and used a smaller section O-ring with the alloy spacers. I'll post some pics for Indy when I can. In appreciation for a solution that works.
  11. Indy Unlimited

    Indy Unlimited Long timer

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    Alloy spacers are nice but would bring the cost up on the kit. I cant seem to find and cheap premade spacers so The O-rings are all I got. Some guys have used PVC pipe and cut the length to fit as a spacer.
  12. Dockstrada

    Dockstrada Been here awhile

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    What size spacer do you need ?
  13. Snowy

    Snowy Long timer

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    20mm I.D and approx 10mm width. I just happened to have a 100mm length of thick walled alloy machined spacer sitting in a box full of axles and swing arm pivot bolts from various rebuilds and modifications I've done. It pays as well to hunt around at the local wreckers for the sort of stuff they just bin and send to the recyclers.

    By the time I finished the spacers on the bottom of the shock were approx 9mm wide, countersunk on one side to help accommodate the width of the O-ring I used to help seal the bearing from crud ingress. Even thought the bearing has a seal, I wanted some kind of external seal as well.

    Seems to work well.
  14. Indy Unlimited

    Indy Unlimited Long timer

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    Good job Snowy can you post a pic of the assembly? Or email it to me and I can host it.
    Thanks.
  15. Snowy

    Snowy Long timer

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    wilco.
  16. NCD

    NCD Dirty Hairy

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    On my top bolt I used (2) part # 2640T24 from McMaster-Carr instead of the O-rings.

    http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/118/1140/=h9i47f

    ID 20mm, OD 26mm just like the bearing itself, so nothing rubs the shock body. I bought 2, filed one down to just under 10mm, and the other to just under 12mm and used them where the O-rings are supposed to live.

    I'm not sure if the shock would walk back and forth on the Indy shaft, but with the wiring right there, I feel better with it held in place laterally.
  17. Indy Unlimited

    Indy Unlimited Long timer

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    I got 30,000 miles on my Hyperpro kit using the spacer O-rings and the shock finds it home and seems to stay there. If i can get cheap spacers to fit without filing / milling and not requiring doubling the price of the kits I will start providing them. For now the O-rings seem to work for most.
  18. NCD

    NCD Dirty Hairy

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    I'm sure the o-rings are fine. I'm just OCD about detail stuff.:D
  19. Snowy

    Snowy Long timer

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    [​IMG]

    Alloy spacer either side, the bearing side of each spacer was counter sunk so that a an o-ring with a smaller section than those in the kit can almost compress completely into it.

    The bearing is actually slightly narrower than the bottom of the shock, so the o-ring stops the alloy contacting alloy directly and gives the o-ring a space to work in.

    Packed the bearings with moly grease that I mix myself from teflon grease that I add moly to.


    I did the same with the top shock bolt, plus I modified the Ralle Moto brace as per earlier in this thread.. It'll have to wait until I've got it stripped for pics, which might be a while as I'm having shoulder reconstruction first thing in the morning.

    Looking forward to physio on my bike.

    Cheers Indy.

    I just noticed from the pic that the swingarm where the shock locates is not parallel. I suppose the o-rings will take up some of that.
  20. NCD

    NCD Dirty Hairy

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    The top with the McMaster bushing/spacers. I was due to pull it open and check that it was working anyway:

    [​IMG]