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Discussion in 'Crazy-Awesome almost Dakar racers (950/990cc)' started by 640Pilot, Nov 10, 2012.
Got one of theses fitted.
No more problems, always on the bike, easy to use, end of story.
All Current 2012 versions now STAY in your AXLE. No need to take up space in your tool kit.
Just bottom it out inside your axle tube and leave it there.
1) To protect from thread damage from being stored in your tool kit.
2) If anyone rides in Mud, water, slime. The CJD Axle Pusher also acts as a PLUG to keep the treads Clean so you won't work any grit into the threads as you remove the axle bolt. What did the inside of your axle bolt look like the last time you changed your front tire?
This design uses the the 10mm socket supplied and used to loosen up the fork clamp ends to Install and Push the axle out.
Easy, lightweight and simple.
If you have the old version and would like to UPGRADE, email me for info.
Loving mine but I store it in my tool kit and the dirt in the thread is a problem.
How do I know which version I have?
The SE Axle pusher picture is what they all look like now, just sized to fit the correct axle thread.
Hope that helps.
Its just simple black oxide coated. Hard anodizing or regular color anodizing for that matter may only be applied to aluminum or titanium. The axle is steel.
Grease is good. I use anti-seize.
CJ that is a rad design. I have the Zip Ty pull and it's useless. Ill be ordering one of those you make soon.
That looks like a great idea CJ! So the axle is threaded deep enough that you screw this in and still have enough threads left to not bottom out the axle nut against it?
Can I have one in blue for the inside of the axle of my Husaberg please.
Yes it is. Just keep it in there all the time. Every axle should have one.
Blue. Sure can, they will go great with Blue peg extensions.
Email me for details.
So...... keep it well greased. Loosen the nut a couple of threads..... kick the nut (or remove boot use as hammer). Undo another couple of threads.... repeat boot until you run out of thread. Put the screw driver through both holes you pre drilled, and twist out axle. You can dry run this to determine where to drill. Even if you cannot expose the hole completely. You can get the tip of the driver in and twist. Do not hit the nut with less than a thread on. Keep it well greased.
No weight has been added to your bike. If you want to remove some weight get a M8 or M6?? stainless allen bolt. Cut the head of....... weld it to the top of the spark plug spanner. You can use the T piece allen key tool to remove and refit spark plugs. You can remove a lot of weight from the tool kit with that trick. I did it years ago, it works perfect. You are the first person to be told this trick...............
Here is a picture of this tool in use during servicing at home.
One other thing I found to relieve the sticky axle is to make sure the axle holes in the fork legs are aligned.
Even though my forks were aligned at the top of the triple tree the axle holes were offset enough to have a little spring pressure on the axle.
I loosened the triple tree clamp bolts on one fork leg and fiddled with it until it was better aligned at the axle. This made a world of difference!
I also have the old style CJ pusher, and it is helpful. I have a piece of foam on the flat behind the tool storage that has cut-outs for tire tools, one wrench, and the CJ pusher, so I've not had any issues with the threads.
I'll see if I can install the Old style upside down and bottomed out in the threads and still have room to thread the axle bolt in. If so, I could just push against it. There's no real need to use a wrench on the pusher to twist the axle now that I've aligned those holes to keep spring pressure from locking the axle in.