950 resurrection, aka I have a lot of ongoing questions??

Discussion in 'Crazy-Awesome almost Dakar racers (950/990cc)' started by COXR650L, Dec 16, 2013.

  1. COXR650L

    COXR650L Long timer

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    OK so I have run into the 1st problem.

    The larger cam bridge bolts will not come out. Am I safe using heat or will it warp the cam bridge?
    #61
  2. kamanya

    kamanya Andrew to most

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    All of them? Have you stripped them?
    #62
  3. charlie264

    charlie264 Long timer

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    Have you rounded the nuts, allen heads, they shouldn't be that tight...m8's are 18nm and m6's are 10nm....I'd give a impact driver a go.
    #63
  4. COXR650L

    COXR650L Long timer

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    Charlie...

    Thanks for the suggestion that was a big help, I wish I would have thought of that sooner. They were really in there:huh. Unfortunately a few still stripped out and I had to weld a bolt to the end. Even then they had a difficult time coming out and sheered one of the bolts off! No locktight, so Im guessing they were really cranked in at a previous valve adjustment.

    [​IMG]

    The progress so far:

    The rear cams looked fine. The cam carrier had some wear in the journals, but I think it is ok.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    The rear cylinder had an obvious head gasket leak, but everything look in good shape. Plenty of hatch markings on the cylinder and the piston skirt looked good.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    The rear piston rings end gap was under the .5mm wear limit, coming in about .45mm.
    The piston measured 99.94mm, under the wear limit of .93


    Everything looked very similar on the front.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    The piston spec'd out .94, however the piston rings had much more wear, being over the .5mm (around .51). Im not sure why the front had more ring wear:ear

    In the process of pulling the fly wheel and clutch basket to change the timing chains and oil pump pressure spring.

    Overall the ending is very clean inside with no signs of crud or build up.
    #64
  5. VxZeroKnots

    VxZeroKnots Long timer

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    Looking good Ben, keep it up! :clap

    Been trying to ride once a week at least. Utah season is just around the corner though :deal
    #65
  6. Chuckracer

    Chuckracer Jerkus Maximus

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    Nice. Thanks for the pics and thread!
    #66
  7. Zuber

    Zuber Zoob

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    Heat wrenches to the rescue!

    When I have problems with the cam bolts, I smack it around a little with a big punch. Then just grab it with a big vice grips. 100% success so far.
    #67
  8. charlie264

    charlie264 Long timer

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    The pressure pump valve has been upgraded by KTM, I recently changed mine. The only noticeable difference is that it doesn't use a cir-clip at the base of the spring, KTM say the piston is different to...................

    60038010133 PRESSURE PUMP HOUSING CPL.

    Also peanuts recommended change the 60034024144 LOCKING LEVER CPL, if the bearing type fails lots of little bearings, the upgraded one has a solid wheel.
    #68
  9. COXR650L

    COXR650L Long timer

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    I have cam chain clatter at idle when the bike is hot so I hope a new spring and valve solves the issues (Pydon mentioned the spring being worn in a post somewhere).

    What parts fich is the Locking Lever CPL found in? I cant figure out where it is.

    Thanks for the help

    Edit: Nevermind I found it!
    #69
  10. COXR650L

    COXR650L Long timer

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    Ok so looking at the end support bearing in the clutch cover for the crank, there is some noticeable wear:

    [​IMG]

    Is this acceptable?

    Or should I try and replace it, and if so do I need to split the cases to check the other main bearings?
    #70
  11. crazybrit

    crazybrit Long timer

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    I know Pyndon replaced his; he told me this was because it failed the "fingernail" test (could feel a groove). There is no wear spec in the manual for this, only for the crank end that rotates inside it.
    #71
  12. COXR650L

    COXR650L Long timer

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    Ya it certainly has noticeable grooves in.

    What is the best procedure for removing the bearing and then installing a new one? Is the special tool from KTM necessary?

    Also is this an indication of the condition of the internal crank bearings?
    #72
  13. crazybrit

    crazybrit Long timer

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    Special tool to remove and install (it's in the manual page 5-6). Possible any blind puller will work and looks like you could make the installation tool/holder if you have a lathe.

    Dunno but I would have thought so as the primary means of support is the case bearings. If it's cutting a groove in the clutch cover support I'd have thought this would indicate that the case support is out of true .... but I'm no expert :D I'd check the crank end wear also.
    #73
  14. charlie264

    charlie264 Long timer

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    I doubt its the pressure release, pull the cir clip and measure the spring. Make sure you have a replacement cir-clip first...my broke, wasn't an issue as I replaced the whole thing. I'd check/replace the cam chain tensioners and springs. Measure the oil pump within spec.
    #74
  15. COXR650L

    COXR650L Long timer

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    I hope it helps. The oil pump was well within spec, however the old spring was considerably shorter than the new one.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    So what to do about the crank bearings:ear:ear:ear

    Thanks
    #75
  16. Tha Rick

    Tha Rick Shake and bake!

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    Dang Co, I never had to adjust them when the bike was mine, the Previous owner was the banger on that.

    If you want help with threads/ stuff shoot me a PM.

    I'm gueissing that the bike had around 100k miles on it before the rebuild project?
    #76
  17. RideFreak

    RideFreak Torque Junkie

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    Nice winter project Ben :clap

    It looks like you're doing it right.
    #77
  18. charlie264

    charlie264 Long timer

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    Yeh the spring spec is 42mm, I doubt that piston ever moves....I dint think the LC8 suffers from excess oil pressure.

    If your splitting the cases then it worth overhauling the crank, measure and order new bearings. Have a look at Pyndons info page, ISTR the newer case has a locking plate for shells.

    http://www.ktm950.info/how/Orange Garage/Engine/Pyns Full 950 Overhaul/pyns_full_950_overhaul.html
    #78
  19. COXR650L

    COXR650L Long timer

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    I got the idea from one Pydons (I think) posts where he had cam cain rattle and the spring and plunger solved it. If this doesn't work Ill do the tensions though.



    Has anyone replaced crank bearings without the press tool? Hopefully I will be able to get that apart and spec'd out today or tomorrow.

    I am going to try and do the carrier bearing without the tool, but the mains worry me about damaging the cases.

    The wear on the carrier bearing is really odd looking, I don't understand how that could have been done unless the crank is not square, but then it seems there would be a lot of other issues. Maybe the bearing got cocked??
    #79
  20. charlie264

    charlie264 Long timer

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    Not advice, but id cut the case bearing with a demil style or a hack saw blade and the carefully pry it out.....if you could get the correct size socket use the old bearing to tap the new one in maybe. Think your going to need a press for the big ends.
    #80