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Discussion in 'Crazy-Awesome almost Dakar racers (950/990cc)' started by WARRIORPRINCEJJ, Jun 20, 2010.
are you talking about the FIG:24 ?
Thanks for responding veetwo.
No, I am not talking about that line...I 86'ed that one, along with the "T" intersection and the rest of the lines that went with it. I was actually inquiring about the vent hose that comes out of the gas cap.
When you remove the tank, there is a little plastic shield just south of the "neck" of the frame. I call it a firewall. It appears to shield the electrical connections near the neck. Up in the left-hand corner of that wall, there are two rubber hose passages. I routed the radiator overflow vent hose through one, but had nothing to route through the other. From the photos that I have seen, I suspect that the gas cap vent hose goes through the second one.
Does the gas cap even need a vent hose? If so, how long does it have to be?
no,but i created a right angle with 2 short pieces and an inline check valve so if the bike spends time on its side it wont lose the fuel
I don't suppose you could shoot a pic. when you get a chance?...sounds like something I might want to do for the cap vent.
i have the tank cap breather running down the front of the rad guard (orange hose)
Thanks for the idea, and the pics., veetwo.
That is one sick SE!
what size is the fuel line ?
1/4" - 6mm (inside diametre) fuel line hose ?
Has anyone got a link on How to service the SE or is it exactly the same as a 950 Adventure ?
Your fuel vent hose is likely tucked under your gas tank. I made a similar mistake when re-assembling mine, but caught it before I had it all back together.
Since the vent hose just runs blindly down the front-ish of the bike, I would just pop on another and tuck it somewhere where it won't melt or get caught in moving parts...then recover the original vent hose the next time you take the tank off.
veetwo, I wish I could help you. If you had caught me about three weeks ago, I woulda' taken a dial caliper to it/them. You were talking about the lines that run from the junction (inside the airbox) to each carb...right?
Man, I looked everywhere for a link, but couldn't find one that worked for me. Eventually, I bought the KTM CD, which supposedly covers the 2003-2008 950/990 Adventure/S, 990 Super Duke/R, 950/990 Supermoto/R, and the 950 Super Enduro. In my very humble opinion, the CD isn't worth a shit for SE owners...The SE seems to be more of an afterthought (if that) in the text and photos.
If it weren't for Ken's (Head2Wind) video, and his assistance, I would've never made it. I have the mechanical skills of a mushroom.
Thanks Hick. I figured that was what I did. Like you mentioned, I wasn't going to mess with it...I was just going to re-route it, especially since I already had everything buttoned-up (and never want to see a wrench again...ever).
Well, I see you made it to Texas. Holla' at me if you find yourself down near San Antone sometime...
it's ok i got it. found a small bit to pull off to measure up - 1/4" - 6mm (inside diametre)
just bought a 6m roll
how do i adjust it? special tools required? does the rear tire have to be jacked off the ground? why is there no mention of this in the user manual? Thanks
Just take the weight off the suspension - centre stand if you have it , or if not, a bike stand.
Loosen the lock ring - then use your hands to spin the whole spring & lock ring together. Should be easy. DONT use a hammer & punch.
If you have to, takes moments to remove the whole shock - then work on it on the bench.
While it can be done with hand (somtimes difficult) or with a punch and hammer (beats up your adjusting ring), there is a relatively cheap tool designed for the job.
Lots of different versions, but they all look a bit like this:
About $9 here
Or you can even buy a pretty KTM version...
Part U6951172, about $25.
thanks guys, that's just what i was looking for. I just dropped the bike again a few minutes ago on the left side, and now it doesn't want to shift into 2nd. once on the ride home i got it into second, but after going back to 1st it wouldn't go back into 2nd. just neutral and 1st. It looks like the lever has been bent, and I'm tempted to pry on it or try to bend it back with a hammer. It contacts this thing in the picture, and I can't remember if it is supposed to move freely above this part with ktm logo, or is it supposed to stop on this? I'm hoping for a quick cheap fix, because the ktm dealer is a long way to go in first gear. I only have the standard tool kit, and very little mechanical experience.
That is your clutch slave, and the shift lever is not supposed to contact it.
I would not bend the lever while it is connected to the countershaft...just my humble opinion. I would remove it...gently give it a slight bend...re-attach it to the C/S...examine it, and repeat if necessary.
While you are completing the above, you can also consider rotating the lever one tooth counter-clockwise on the shaft...
thanks warrior, I thought it would be risky to bend it, which is why I checked here first. can anyone give me a clue as to what's involved with removing the lever, do i have to take the sprocket off to get at it? is it a simple job with the ktm toolkit, or should i limp the bike down to the local bike mechanic. the ktm dealer is 45 km of highway away, but there's a local non ktm shop about 10-15 km from me. I don't have a lift, a garage, or any extra tools.
to remove the lever you will need
loctite 242 (blue) DO NOT USE THE RED
you will need at least a bench vice (with soft jaws or a rag rapped around the lever so the vice will not leave jaw marks in the alloy lever) & hammer (rubber mallet/soft hammer would be best) to tap it back.
have a friend close buy with these ? next best M/C shop.
use loctite & torque wrench to 10Nm - shift lever bolt.
(NO TORQUE WRENCH - do not over tighten when re-installing)
now buy a hammerhead shift lever from CJ
The lever is held in place with a bolt that has an 8MM head...if I remember correctly. Your tool kit should have a socket (and extension, if needed) to fit this...I believe the kit has a 6MM, 8MM, and 10MM socket.
Once again, if I remember correctly, upon re-installation, KTM recommends a certain kinda' "thread compound" for the bolt. It is a "Loc-Tite" part number of some sort. I couldn't find it, in my area. So, I just used medium strength "Permatex" threadlocker (P/N 24200).
I always believe that a person should follow the manufacturer's recommendations. However, since I could not find the Loc-Tite thread compound, I went with the Permatex...and haven't had a problem. I am not saying that you should do this...only that I did it without any drama.
EDIT: Good ol' veetwo beat me to it...faster fingers...