Separate names with a comma.
Discussion in 'Crazy-Awesome almost Dakar racers (950/990cc)' started by WARRIORPRINCEJJ, Jun 20, 2010.
Don't go too far it will be more than the light that stays on.
Definitely a sweet bike JJ, I can understand why people are drawn to it.
Interestingly enough I rarely ever see one even here in Austria, maybe 3 since they came out in 06? I actually fell in love with it last summer, I was happily cruising along a beach in North Brazil on my rented 400cc Honda when some madman bombed past me on an SE doing about 3 times my speed. Roosted the shit out of me so I ate quite a bit of sand. I caught up with the guy at a beach bar a few ks later, unfortunately with my sucky Portuguese and his non-existent English the only thing I was able to find out was that he had paid about $40k for it down there, and thought it was the best purchase ever. He was about 5'5", not sure how he even climbed on board.
KTM suspension on a BMW? You know me too well....
Does the rear wheel look familiar? Also got a set of Excel/Talon 17" made for an SE that I was going to adapt, maybe I will just leave them as they are....
The beemer should be a nice enough ride when it's done, great fuel mileage, decent power and kinda good looking. But it sure doesn't get the blood pumping like one of these bad boys would!!!
Lukas, I was on exactly the same boat as you. Was looking for a f650twin to put long travel wp suspension onto. Until I rode an SE.
However, your project I am sure will be worth every penny you spend and I will surely keep an eye on its progress. There is a lot of potential there and you will end up with a cracking bike, which in some aspects will better the SE.
Okay, I am a bit embarrassed to admit this, but I have had my SE for over a year now, and it has always popped and backfired when decelerating.
Is there anything that can be done to stop this annoyance? I am running stock jetting, Akros, canisterectomy and SAS removed.
The backfiring was present with the stock pipes, the new Akros, before and after doing the canister/SAS removal.
The carbs. have the "decel." circuit. However, from my recent experience, they are still a little lean from south of 1/3 throttle.
I didn't mess with the above circuit on mine. However, richening it up a bit (everywhere else on the low end) did wonders for the decel. popping.
I am going to hazard a guess that, during your recent move, you probably lost about 1000-2000 feet of elevation. Plus, more importantly, I betcha' Lubbock is below the magic 4000' cut-off...which may be amplifying things a bit.
Geez...I feel like I have been advertising for him all day. And, despite the fact that it is not my intent, you may want to holla' at Ken (Head2Wind). I am sure that he (or one of the experts here in the OC) will have a more "learned" answer for you.
Raise your needles one position, and adjust your fuel screws to about 2 turns out from lightly seated. The fuel screws may need to be tweaked 1/4 turn one way or the other, but 2 turns should be close. I'm at 800' elevation, and regularly ride to about 4000', with occasional trips higher. 1-3/4 to 1-7/8 works for me.
The rest of my setup is the same as yours, except I have Neptune cans instead of Akros.
Try this before you start spending money on it.
FWIW, I have used the H2W kit, and went back to the above setup. The prefilter wasn't an advantage for me, and the bike ran about the same.
I thought the jetting might be the issue as well. The only evidence to the contrary is that I get popping with decel whether I am at 11,000 feet or 3,000 feet. It seems that if the issue were being too lean at 3000 feet, that the popping would get better at 11,000 feet. Am I wrong to assume this?
I guess another way to ask this is: when you adjust the oxygen content of the carburetor, i.e., traveling to a higher altitude, does the fuel intake automatically get adjusted as well, or is a lean mixture always lean regardless of the altitude?? Are they dependant or independant variables (for the mathematically geeky out there).
The way that I have always understood this is...
The higher you go (altitude-wise), the more rich your mixture will become. In other words, if your bike is spot-on at 1000', it will be noticeably rich at 7000'.
When I decided to rejet my bike, it was because of input that I received on this site. However, my problems were surging and some type of intermittent "stutter". So, the rejetting process also afforded me the opportunity to look for vacuum and venting problems.
After the rejet, the problems (surging) are not completely gone, but the bike is (at least) tolerable. Prior to the rejet, it was getting to the point where I didn't really want to ride it.
My personal opinion is that I could probably fine-tune the bike even more (after my recent rejet). However, some genius tucked the fuel system into the airbox, and made the thing so damn hard to get to. But, that's another topic for another time.
Stobie's recommendation, coincidently, is one of the few regrets that I have. I wish that I had adjusted the needle(s), and tinkered with the idle-air mixture screws (possibly, even the floats), prior to the rejetting. But, what's done is done...and I like my bike alot more now then before the rejet.
By the way, the reason that I initially responded to your post was because of the "popping" thing. As I stated, I did nothing to the circuit that takes-over when you chop the throttle. However, after the rejet, the popping is considerably less (almost non-existant). I think that the richening of the entire lower end of the carburetion (zero-to-partial throttle) may have helped that particular situation.
I know how it is when your bike is doing something that you hate. Luckily, you have the OC. Good Luck to ya'.
It is adjusted with altitude to a degree. Out of the 3 main circuits the carbs have, (fuel screws, needles, main jets) it is the needles which self adjust the best with altitude in CV carbs. The fuel screws setting as well as the main jets, also self adjust the quantity of fuel through them (via the venturi effect) but not as successfully.
I would expect, that because of the venturi effect, carbs would be able to self adjust at any altitude and to be honest, I don't know why this is not the case. Maybe someone who knows more can help us here.
As a side note, it appears to subjective me, that my bike is more sensitive to air temperature than it is to altitude.
Same for me .
I have Akra's with Stock Main & Pilot Jets.
I agree with every word from this Wise Man
I dont care for the Pre-Filter.
your akras are corked or uncorked?
FWIW, I did a search of this subject. On a variety of forums from a variety of vehicles, the consistent response to popping on decel is that the mixture is too lean.
I really hate carb work, but I guess I gots to do it.
I've ran both ways fine, but they are un-corked
I LOVE the Sound
Just looking for opinions at this point guys.
I've got a set of woodys tubeless supermoto wheels here, just mounted new BT021's. I'm toying with the idea of selling them. I don't use them enough to justify having them and I'd like another set of stock wheels. The set is complete less spacers (use yours) and a rear brake disc. Even have a shorter sidestand. What are they worth?
I was just complaining about needing an extra set of wheels this morning. How easy are these to swap? Are they pretty much plug and play? Or does it require more than swapping wheels to get them to work? When you figure out a price, PM me. I am probably interested.
That was my problem when I had a set for my 525. It was too much trouble
to change & I ride TOO MUCH Dirt , so I sold em .
18" Mefo Super Explorer rear & Karoo 'T 2' 21" front Knobbies works just as well
on my 950 SE
ummmm....No they don't...not even close....at all....
The SE and I are about 300 miles from home, right now.
As far as the coolant level...I couldn't remember...
Check it hot?...Check it cold?
Bike on the sidestand?...Bike off the sidestand (and perpendicular to the ground)?
Also, if I'm low, will it hurt me to go to one of these "Instant Oil Change" places and have them put a little of their 50/50 in it?
Thanks in advance.
Check coolant with bike level and engine cold.
I would think you could add 50/50 to it..but dont know for sure.
Thank you Mr. KTM450SX. For awhile there, I thought nobody was gonna' help a brotha' out.
The SE and I have about another 300 miles ahead of us, tomorrow. It's been hot (and humid) as Hell here in Texas. I damn-near dehydrated, and tapped-out due to heat exhaustion, on the first leg of our little journey.
The SE hung in there. And, despite the fact that it never went above five bars, the coolant did look a little low.
Anyhow, I appreciate the response.