950 Super Enduro "Quick Question(s)" Thread...

Discussion in 'Crazy-Awesome almost Dakar racers (950/990cc)' started by WARRIORPRINCEJJ, Jun 20, 2010.

  1. mousitsas

    mousitsas Long timer

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    For the speeds you are talking about, I believe you will hardly see any difference in milleage between the two.
    However it is worth checking how the 17 feels. Different strokes for different folks!
  2. wpbarlow

    wpbarlow Long timer

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    Afaik, all SEs are the same mechanically across model years. Some have suggested that KTM made all the SEs ever made in one single batch and they just changed the model year designations.
  3. v8toilet

    v8toilet Nothing to see here.

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    +1 my understanding as well. The only change was BNG's! (Bold New Graphics) :)
  4. dannyc1225

    dannyc1225 Adventurer

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    Thanks guys!
  5. GoinRidin

    GoinRidin Adventurer

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    Any one use 89 octane with no issues? I have been running 93 ethanol free but its difficult and not convenient to obtain. Another local station started selling 89 ethanol free fuel only that is more convenient but don't know if it is high enough octane rating.

    I can get E10 high octane anywhere but I prefer the ethanol free fuel
  6. wpbarlow

    wpbarlow Long timer

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    I do, no issues.
  7. digger

    digger Adventurer

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    Does anyone know where to buy the aluminum radiator guards for the SE .Looked all over no one seems to have them.Thanks
  8. charlie264

    charlie264 Long timer

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  9. veetwo _tls

    veetwo _tls RENOVATIO:

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  10. The Bigfella

    The Bigfella Big Adventurer

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    I'm having a few braking problems... about as far away from a KTM dealer as I've ever been. I fitted new pads front and rear last week btw.

    First up... I've got zero rear brake left. The master cylinder started dripping a week ago after a drastic emergency braking application (little kid ran across 4 lanes).... I certainly over-braked. I did a hard ride yesterday and lost pedal towards the end. I'd fitted a seal kit to this not long before I left on my current trip... and I'm going to need another. We (local mechanic) bled it today and I think he's got fluid on the pads... as I've got nothing happening at all when I jump on the rear brake. Nothing. I'll try a new set of pads and see how it goes.

    The front brakes are shocking... I can pull the lever to the handlebars.... and I can do that at 140 and keep it there... and things slow down but not very well relative to what it used to be like. (reminds me of the scooter I had in Vietnam, where rolling off the throttle slowed you more than applying the brake). We bled it as well and he mechanic thinks there's something wrong in the master cylinder. Anyone had problems with the MC before.... and if so, what did they do?
  11. mousitsas

    mousitsas Long timer

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    Problems are TWO:
    1) WRONG master piston area (too small for the calliper pistons) -> long lever throw
    2) SMALL oil capacity -> easy boil
    Both of the above create exactly what you describe after relatively little use.

    Solution is ONE:
    Fit an adventure 950/990 master.
    Initial bite is less aggressive due to the now larger master piston. However the more you pull, the more you stop in a very crisp, strong and controllable way. It is called perfect braking. I have also fitted a 320 disc on mine which takes braking to an other level by itself.

    :1drink
  12. LukasM

    LukasM Long timer

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    Aegis,

    I think he started only having issues recently, so it doesn't have anything to do with small fluid capacity or the bore size.


    Bigfella,

    What happens when you fully pull on the lever/push on the pedal, are you getting a lot of resistance or can you go all the way to the end of the stroke? If you are getting nice pressure then it's a friction issue and would point to the brake pads being done. If you can easily pull the lever to the bars then it is air in the system. If they can't be bled then it might be the piston seal as your mechanic thinks. Any fluid loss at the caliper?
  13. The Bigfella

    The Bigfella Big Adventurer

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    Long travel at the lever with the front... can get it to the bar if I try hard... but its always been like that. I've had the local guys bleed front and rear today (neither spanner in the toolkit....) I think I'll change the front pads back to the half worn ones and see how it is. Rear had gained travel yesterday... it was worked hard in the Xtrim Sumatra eXpedition event.... big hills... bled it too, but I reckon the mechanic got fluid on the pads. Will change them again and see. The rear is so bad, I can't even lock it on loose sand on the bitumen.
  14. mousitsas

    mousitsas Long timer

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    Bleed as follows:
    1)remove master lid
    2)slightly unscrew slave nipple 1/4 - 1/2 turn
    3)insert long enough transparent tube on nipple and end the tube inside master reservoir so it is under the fluid surface at all times and forms an external closed circuit.
    4) start pumping hard. If necessary, add fluid in master reservoir. You will most likely need to do that, since the tube will have to fill with fluid, while at the same time maintaining the correct fluid height in the master.

    after 20-50 strokes max you have a perfectly bled system. This is the best kept secret in bleeding I've ever encountered (thanks gefr!).
  15. Nytro

    Nytro Been here awhile

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    Sounds exactly like mine was. In another thread someone mentioned they removed the red adjustment knob on the lever and turned the adjustment rod in further and loc-tited it. This resulted in better lever travel.
    I tried it, and it works fantastic. I needed to remove the lever a couple times to get the adjustment just right, but now I have
    much better braking without pulling the lever to the bars.
  16. Crowley

    Crowley Adventurer

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    Thanks for the info – definite light bulb info. So simple yet never thought about it. <?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:eek:ffice:eek:ffice" /><o:p></o:p>
  17. The Bigfella

    The Bigfella Big Adventurer

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    Arrgh.... damn patchy internet ate my reply.

    No tube around here - central northern Sumatra... to try the loop idea. Lack of tube makes me think mechanic got fluid on the rear pads. Neither spanner needed was in my toolkit, of course. Rode it tonight and can't even lock the rear in big patches of sand on the bitumen. NO rear brake.

    Will try the adjusting rod trick tomorrow for the front.

    Woke to an almost flat front tyre today too. Pumped it up after the offroad stuff. Still up, so tomorrow will tell. Had two flats Friday last week. First two on the bike in over 20,000 km.
  18. mousitsas

    mousitsas Long timer

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    Well, the tube needs no to be transparent, but helps so you can see the bubbles!
    You may use the petrol tank overfill tube. It is the one leaving your gas cap and ending next to your clutch slave.
    It is long enough to bleed the front too (I think)!
  19. The Bigfella

    The Bigfella Big Adventurer

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    Ha! there's another problem... I've got a locking cap (two actually... I got a new one and its the same as the old one) .... it doesn't vent enough for here.... it overpressurises the tank and I end up with leaks from the sensor. I must get a non-locking cap on my next trip home (gotta go home to run a workshop for a client soon... two days travel for a half day workshop.... arghh)
  20. DRjoe

    DRjoe Long timer

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    hey fellas can anyone tell me how much pressure the stock fuel pump puts out.
    Just about to fit a omc pulse pump so would like to know the presure diference for setting the float valves.

    Cheers

    Joe