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Discussion in 'Road Warriors' started by wpbarlow, Jul 20, 2006.
Cast wheel bike, ill look for that, thanks!
Should be able to look up the part for an Adventure and an SM on bike bandit or KTMTwins and see if they are the same part number
I believe stock rear for the SM is 41T, I know the stock front is 17. I went down to a 16T front sprocket and am running stock rear gearing, it shortens the gears a bit and takes maybe 5-10% off the top end. With the stock 17 front, I feel like I have to be going 85+ to shift into 6th gear. I may be going back to the stock 17 this summer as I have a couple of longer trips planned but like the 16T for shorter hops.
15/41 or 16/44 and you will never go back.
And the SE/Adv rears are interchangable, the SM/SMR/SD are different.
Thanks for all the info guys, I believe mine has a 16 tooth on the front right now, but I never counted the rear yet.
Seems tough to find a decent chain/sprocket combo set for a good value.
I can find lots of combo type sets for well over 250 bucks though haha.
Are chains and sprockets really worth that much? Might end up just buying a new chain and using the sprockets I have. They are in good shape, was just gonna change things up a little bit.
Speaking of which, how many miles do you all think I'd get out of an aluminum rear sproket?
Like I really need any more power...
I had one, under 2k miles before it showed signs of wear, never again! Good only for testing a gear combo, forget 15-20k. No way.
Thanks all for the feedback on the Pirelli Diablos. For the price, I may pick up a set and get them mounted in the future, just before a trip to some twistys.
They won't be of much use here in Fl.
I only do aluminum sprockets on my racebikes.
Too noisy and short lived for a streetbike. The added performance is so negligible that it's short lifespan definitely isn't worth the trouble. Just get steel.
So it looks like the Scorp Syncs are discontinued. I like these, but was ready to try something new anyway/
My friend runs the 2CTs and loves them. I have been looking at the Pures, due to the larger area of the second compound on the sides over the CT.
Anyone liking the Pures?
I hated the sync's, guess because i am not off roading this bike and they were crap for traction.
I have and do run the PP and PP 2ct's. The Pures are going to get terrible mileage on the road as they are really more of a Track day tire with some street riding.
I am moving toward PP2ct in the front and PP Road 3 2ct in the rear to equal out tire ware on my bikes. If i do a track day i will either run a set of just 2ct's or try my first set of PP Pures.
Either way be sure to check JakeWilson.com for pricing. I keep seeing guys post up great tire deals then i go check JakeWilson and they always seem to be cheaper to the door every time.
I opted for the "Stealth" sprocket on my lil-Dike II and will do the same when i replace the 950 stuff probably next winter. Stealth sprocket in and aluminum center with riveted outer steel ring for sprocket teeth. Plus you can get different colors.
Munn Racing has a combo kit with chain, steel front, and the stealth rear for great prices.
Just saying hello, and thanks.
Hello, and thanks.
Read through the entire thread, and during that time bought an '06 SM, completely standard on 8,500 miles from W Mounters in South Wales. I've so far put 1,000 miles on it, put my heated grips on via the Acc2 connectors, bought and fitted some 2nd hand KTM handguards, a new 690 screen, disconnected the 2nd and 3rd gear restriction, bought a top box for the upcoming Scotland trip (still not sure if I'm old enough for a top box!), a second hand hugger from a Ducati ST3, a fender extender from a Fazer 600 (poor fit, TBH), and I'm going to pick up a spare set of points next, and I just want to say thanks for the threads and contributions guys. They've helped me no end allready.
I wasn't sure that the KTM was the bike for me, I was thinking that maybe it's a bit too much of a hooligan bike. Suit me more when I was younger, but I'm trying to be a bit more sensible these days. The other bike I had my eye on was a Guzzi Griso. I've recently come from a Fazer 600, very competent, but not fun on quiet, bumpy back roads, very good on 120mph + sweepers, which is too fast for me these days, so I had an MZ Baghira, which was lovely, great fun at 85 mph and below, perfect blatting round the lanes on, but a bit breathless for the longer distance rides, and the annual touring week. I've got a CCM 404 (DRZ 400 engine) for green laning, which is a hoot on the roads too, but again a bit weak for touring on. Did do a long weekend in the Lake district and Scotland on it though. The KTM seemed to suit my enjoyment for the upright position, commanding seat height and view, quick steering etc that I like on the smaller singles, but with the legs for the longer mileages.
Oh yes, it really is the bike for me. I have come to accept that actualy, I am a bit of a hooligan. I can't get away from it. BUT, the motor is so lovely, and the bike just so sweet, that I can bide my time, and only go for it when everything is right for it. I'm not champing at the bit, cursing the cars in the way, taking daft chances to get past, and screaming past everything, but when the roads are quiet, and the front lifts accelerating out of the second gear bend, dropping down in time to dab the brakes for the next one, lifting as we exit again, oh man, am I glad I bought this bike. I love it!
If my pump dies while I'm riding will the bike shut down or stay running till I get where I'm going?
It will die, you might get on/off for a little bit. Blow thru the cap vent hose and you can limp it home. You need to pressurize the tank to fill the bowls and repeat every few seconds. Guys have used a hand air pump to do the same.
I got warning that my pump was going because it wouldn't "click" many times when turning the key on after the bike had been sitting. When it crapped out for real, it was dead, like you hit the kill switch. Banging on the fuel pump with a stick got the bike to start and run well enough to limp a few miles to the KTM shop (dumb luck).
Well, here's what's going on. These are the details as best as I can remember them. Most from the last two days.
-Fall 2011, bike is starting intermittently. Discussion with the guys at Five Star led me to buy a new battery as the oem one was 5 years old and the bike sat a lot early in it's life. Starting issue solved.
-I put the bike away for the winter intending to start it a few times a month to keep it cleaned out and fresh-ish fuel in the jets. I never ended up doing this and when I finally did get to it it ran on only one cylinder.
-I pulled the carbs and left them at Five Star for cleaning. Jeremy said there was a ton of gunk in there and that they were definitely due for a cleaning.
-I put the carbs back on and finally got to try and start it yesterday. I drained all the old fuel and put in fresh 93 oct. The bike cranked and cranked and cranked and not even a pop! With or without the choke, full throttle or no throttle. I let it sit.
-I start wondering about the fuel pump. I haven't heard it click at all since I did the carb install. With my hand on the pump I can feel it "jerk" when I turn the key to run, but it won't pump up. Disconnecting the fuel line and depressing the white plastic nozzle on the carb side of the line let out fuel so I know some fuel was getting to that side of the connector, just not sure if it was making it to the carbs. I think gravity would be enough to get fuel past the quick disconnect.
-More cranking. No fuel smell at all from either exhaust pipe. I pull the airbox lid (tank still on) and try again. No fuel smell from either carb throat.
-More cranking from frustration which then leads to smoke coming from the starter relay area. Im pretty sure it is some electrical tape I had put on the battery lead. Solenoid will click when i thumb the starter every time, but now the bike will not crank at all. Just clicking.
-I should mention that this whole time the bike has been on a battery tender (since it was installed in the fall) I thought maybe I had drained it enough to keep the relay from working so I turn my attention back to the fuel pump.
-Pull the pump for inspection. Can't really get at the internals so I just undid the screws and sanded all the connections. I moved the plunger up and down to confirm it was free to move.
-Reinstall; the pump and still the bike will not crank, and the pump will not click at all. So basically no change.
-I figure I'll have to get the bike to Five Star somehow.
-Today- I get to thinking about the starter solenoid. I look it over. It seems fine, fuse is good, clicks reliably.
-I notice the battery tender is blinking green (more than 80% charge) It should be solid green (full charge, maintenance mode) since it's been plugged in since the day before (when I cranked the daylights out of it)
I check the battery with a digital meter. 16.xx volts. I unplug the battery tender. 15.5v and rising. WTF.
During all this I turn the key (to check voltage with the starter depressed) and doesn't the pump click like it should and the bike cranks and pretty much starts. I get it running with some choke and measure 16.xx volts while it's running.
-With an uneasy feeling I pull the battery. It's resting voltage seems to be 15.75 volts. Not wanting any trouble I put it in a metal container and put it outside.
I don't even know what questions to ask.
WTF is going on?!?!?!
Something else troubling that I just discovered :
The batter tender I had on the 950 puts out 16.7v with it plugged into the bike.
A different tender I have plugged into my 450exc (also a new battery in the fall) sseems to put out 15.5v. So far no issues with the 450 but I've only been out on it once so far.
The outlet I had the 950's tender plugged into shows 135v on the meter.
Huh? 2nd and 3rd gear restriction? WTF is that?
thats a pretty cool bit of info