950 Supermoto Chronicles

Discussion in 'Road Warriors' started by wpbarlow, Jul 20, 2006.

  1. snowhawk jockey

    snowhawk jockey Slack Jaw Gaper

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    Funny you should mention the ICON boys!
    They needed to hire me(instead of who ever actually guided them) guide them on their "adventure" ride...
    I could even mount up my paddle tire and roll the snow!

    eta:
    The above statement was written incorrectly and has been edited to reflect actual claim...(sorry to buck and others confused or harmed)

    Mcmann,
    That comparison is great since you can see the extra length in the SE kickstand leg.
  2. mcmann

    mcmann Motorcycle Maniac

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    I had to shorten the SE side stand 1.5" . . . Mainly from backing off the rear spring rate and lowering the front 1" in the triple clamps and 19" X 17" wheels.

    I prefer the wider SM gear ratio on the road over the SE. Throw on some bags, skid guard & hand guards and it can be an Adventure bike.

    [​IMG]
  3. BuckMoto

    BuckMoto Adventure Napping

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    Wow! - did you get to go to S. America too, or did they have you guide the Portland part only? There's got to be some interesting stories in that! I'm sending you a pm about the wheels.

    P.S. Hope all you US Supermoto riders had a great Thanksgiving. Hope the rest of you had a great Thursday! :D
  4. Thumper996

    Thumper996 Been here awhile

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    Thanks Buck and hope yours was good as well. I spent Friday getting SM winterized as I am having knee surgery Tuesday and although I can ride off and on over the winter her in the south I figured it best to just turn the petcocks off and run the carbs dry. Pulled the battery and got her on bench charger for now until knee heals up early next year.
  5. omnivore

    omnivore SuperSportTourer

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    Whoa....you mean you acheived an appreciable amount of lowering without buying a thing for your SM? Just by dialing out all of the rear preload and sliding your forks an inch? What is your new seat height?

    Has anyone tried the KTM hardparts package for lowering an SMT? It's less than $300 and contains fork springs and ccartridges, and a rear spring.
  6. BuckMoto

    BuckMoto Adventure Napping

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    Hi snowhawk! Just looked at the credits at the end of the Icon movie. Was the whole thing filmed in Oregon? Makes sense as that would have been ridiculously expensive otherwise! You must be the "Justin" listed as the "Operations Manager" and also in the "Extras". Very cool! Did you have to fill in for the getting sideways parts! :lol3 I did not realize that there was such varied terrain in Oregon.

    Thumper996- Best of luck with the surgery. Hope it ends up better than new so you can post more of those bitchin' knee dragging videos.
  7. mcmann

    mcmann Motorcycle Maniac

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    Woops . . . I edited my post . . . I shortened the SE side stand and lowered it via triple clamps and backing off the rear spring tension and 19" X 17" wheels . . . I did not change the SM settings . . . It is already low enough stock.

    I am sure you could lower the SM the same way if you needed to lower it . . . Would have to shorten the side stand.

    You can drop the front 1" via triple clamps and lower the back up to an inch backing off the spring rate . . . depending how heavy you are . . . The seat height will be lower when sitting on the bike compressing the rear spring.
  8. snowhawk jockey

    snowhawk jockey Slack Jaw Gaper

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    No, no, no, I've been misunderstood entirely!(and classic that there is a "Justin" in the credits!!) I was implying that I would have "cleared up" their problem with the snowed in tree riding. Had they a proper guide, to access the right snow depth for their bikes and tires, it would have been a blast to watch them tear through the deep snow packed forest roads. As it was, hardly as much fun to watch the predictable falling over and such...

    anyway, hope to clear up the misunderstanding:shog
    eta: meaning I had nothing to do with the ICON affair, just was talking shit about their guide for the snow section;)
  9. BuckMoto

    BuckMoto Adventure Napping

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    No worries -I'm easily misled! :lol3 I wondered if you had meant 'they should have contacted you' after I first replied and then I saw a "Justin" in the credits and figured it was you and jumped to that conclusion.
  10. wiseblood

    wiseblood Hall Monitor

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    Hey All --

    So, I'm starting to get myself sorted, and get mechanically familiar with the SMR. I've started browsing the OC Hall of Wisdom, and Orange Crush.

    There doesn't seem to be a better place to start with some simple questions than here. :freaky

    Ok... To start: One of my first projects is to make sure the carbs are synced. I've never had a carbureted bike, so bear with me. My purpose is to get to the bottom of my craptastic fuel economy. (20-25 mpg city. :eek1)

    So, I ordered one of these:

    [​IMG]

    Seems straight-forward enough. Remove the tank, open the airbox. Stick one of these on the intakes and compare the numbers. Correct?

    A couple questions:

    1. How do you recommend getting fuel to the bike with the tank off? Keep in mind, I'm working in my backyard (no garage). I'm thinking, tank up on some elevated surface, and route the necessary hoses and power to the pump, right? Is there a better way?

    2. If I want to get a quick check of the carb flow, can I just leave the filter element in?

    3. Service manual says to check at idle. Some folks also check at some running RPM. The 950 SMR doesn't have a tach. Other than ballparking based on sound, is there a way to more precisely know the RPMs?


    I do know a previous owner installed some sort of "jet kit" so I'm assuming some aspect of the job was botched. My thinking is to start with a basic carb balance and continue from there if necessary. Does that sound right?

    Thanks!
  11. snowhawk jockey

    snowhawk jockey Slack Jaw Gaper

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    #1. I turn off the petcocks, remove center connector fuel hose from petcocks, disconnect wires and q/d fuel line, remove tank, set my tank on a folding table, right next to the bike, then reattach fuel line to the q/d fitting and re-attach fuel pump. Turn on left side petcock and start bike!

    I have since added a longer piece of fuel line to the bike side of the q/d fitting. This allows me to set the tank back on the subframe(secured with big bungee) and run the bike. With the FCR's I wanted to be able to test/tune on a ride and had to have fuel to do so...

    #2. The filter can remain in the stock airbox for measuring flow through the trumpets. The filter will have to come off to adjust the throttle linkage for synch changes.

    #3. Some auto/electrical test meters have an RPM setting, maybe yours does too. If not, $39 buys a tinytach from Trailtech, then you can watch the rev's. I check synch at idle and 4000 rpm, because I have two throttle cables and two idle adjusts, one for each carb. The idle synch is testing the idle stop setting and the 4000 rpm synch is testing the cables for matching length and uses the cable sheath barrel for adjustments. yours won't be a detailed since there is a linkage joining the two carbs and only one throttle cable.

    There is NO reason to get 20-25MPG city, so the jetting is likely wrong.
    Baseline the jetting, when you pull the airbox, by disassembling and noting in your records, what jets are installed in the bowl, intake tract and what needle is in the slide.
  12. corndog67

    corndog67 Banned

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    My 950 is kinda twitchy, not really dangerous or anything but it steers as quick or quicker than anything I've ever owned. My question is, has anyone tried the Scotts Steering Stabilizer and their top triple clamp setup? Like it? Don't like it? Worthwhile investment?

    Thanks.
  13. renogeorge

    renogeorge Long timer

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    I haven't seen the need for a stabilizer on my SM in 40 k miles, although I swear by them for my dirt bikes. The SM can get twitchy if the front to rear ride height is off. You may want to try raising the front or lowering the rear a little to slow it down.

    FWIW
  14. MookieBlaylock

    MookieBlaylock Long timer

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    i would research a bit to understand 1) how you want the carbs vented, best i think is individualy with each hose terminating just below where they exit the bottom of the airbox. 2) which jetting solution you want , one of the carb kits (not factory pro!!!!)or tested solutions from inmates 3) make sure canisterectomy (charcoal canister system and not necessarily the sas) is performed correctly with no leaks and on each intake 1 of the 2 vacuum ports is sealed and the other has its hose run to the back side of the airbox and plugged, allowing for ez access to plug each hose onto the carb syncher ,so you can at least check sync with the tank in place . 4) also consider installing flex jet remote fuel screws which make fine tuning so much easier as you don't have to pull the tank
  15. nattyMo

    nattyMo Been here awhile

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    I've been running a Emig damper for a few years now. Wouldn't say it slows the steering down all that much, if at all. It does a great job of calming the odd twitch. Made a huge difference in calming the wiggles from truck turbulence in highway traffic. I used to notice a fair bit of weaving about when following/passing vans, suvs and large trucks and the like, now it's totally stable. Also has helped with tracking over broken pavement, especially in turns. On the track, 100+ mph sweepers are much more relaxed as well.

    I would never say the SM/SMR etc. NEED a damper. Does it improve the performance? Absolutely. It will allow you to ride with more control and less effort no matter how good you may be. Makes a great bike just that little bit better IMHO. If I ever felt it was taking away from the bikes ability I can simply turn the dampening off.

    Not too different from adding a set of end cans really. They don't transform the bike but do add that little bit more. Nice to have? Sure. Do you NEED them? Not at all.

    If you go with the Scotts or Emig you may want to consider lower rise bars, if you don't care to raise the bars that is. I went with a set of Driven bars in their CR Low bend, worked out great.

    Here's my current setup using a Driven CR Low bend carbon bar and BONZ hand guard mounts with the Emig damper and clamps.

    [​IMG]

    Cheers,

    NM

  16. Thumper996

    Thumper996 Been here awhile

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  17. mrdirtbikerider

    mrdirtbikerider Husaberg rider

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    Hey nattyMo, how do you like the Driven bars? How are they
    At highway speeds? Any vibration? My 950sm stock bars
    Vibrate a little on the highway about 70 and above.
  18. nattyMo

    nattyMo Been here awhile

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    I like the bars quite a bit. I've done a number of long rides (6+ hrs) without any hand numbing. The mirrors do blur a tiny bit at speed, say 70+mph in 5th as an example. I'm not running the bar end dampers, having installed hand guards 9k miles ago. The driven carbon bars may well vibrate less then the stock bars with the stock dampers installed. As I'm running them with the hand guards, they don't vibrate any worse then the stock bars with the dampers installed.

  19. Thumper996

    Thumper996 Been here awhile

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    Would you say the CR Low bend is lower than the stock bars? What about angle of hands between the stock and CR Low? btw the carbon coating looks pretty trick.
  20. preppypyro

    preppypyro Been here awhile

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    Hey guys n gals,

    Any of you guys have experience with the pirelli scorpion trails, or the conti trail attacks?

    Im second guessing my thinking behind wanting the tkc 80's. Im gonna be doing alot of pavement riding out to gravel and dirt roads this summer, and I got to thinking that maybe something like the scorpions or the trail attacks might be better for my all around choices, opposed to the tkc80's, which I have read arent super good for highway driving.

    The other option I may have is a dunlop 616. Not sure how those are on gravel though, any experiences?

    Started a thread in orange crush, but would like guys opinions and experiences here too please!

    Looking like I might have to do a little modifying and start thinking about an 18 inch rear tire in the future.