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Discussion in 'Crazy-Awesome almost Dakar racers (950/990cc)' started by Cycletech, Aug 18, 2013.
CRW, you da man!
Trick on getting the motor back in: Pull the swingarm back out of the way, and catch the motor with the swingarm pivot shaft (whatever it's called) and the lower engine bolt. Next, catch the front of the motor with the aluminum hangers. Then, go back and remove the swingarm shaft, install the swing arm, and insert the pivot shaft.
I tried for hours to get the motor in the hard way. After removing the swing arm and doing it as above, we were done in about 20 minutes.
Oh, and I can tell you how NOT to time the motor, if you want to know.
Thanks for the tips, seems just like pulling/installing a Ducati engine. I pulled the front head today with the engine in the bike.. It. is. not. pretty..
Oh no! What did you find?
Orangecicle, What air filter setup are you using?
Broken top ring, worn cylinder, head gasket was leaking, cases are worn at the base of the cylinder, valve guides worn, con rod bush is done....
I will try to take some pics later.
Shheeeeiiiiittt. If I were in that position, I'd find a 990 donor and just change out the few parts you need to make it work with carbs. I spent $1,500 on mine just to redo the top end and replace the cams with 990 cams. While your cams may be OK and not pitted, you still have a lot of coin to spend to get it running again, and you have the Pyndon syndrome on the cases. Yep, I'd find a power plant from a suitable organ donor and call it a day.
That's the plan... Cams look great though!
Sell them! Look up the prices on those cams in the book. The 950 cams are ridiculously high. I think they are phasing them out.
My not so happy cylinder
Gray area on the left = leaking. Shiny area on the right = no leaky
Con rod bush. If it was a field bike that I didn't care about I would roll with it, but this is my main bike after sending the FJR down the road.
Haven't checked the specs on the cylinder yet
And the cases. Goop it up and it might last awhile. Not my style though.
i have a low end, with out outers(18,000 mi). cracked cases but patched with metal type epoxy and does not leak with a kickstand re-locator.
pm me if you want to work a deal.
I think I'll drop in a 990SM engine, there's 2 on fleabay right now. Thanks for the offer though!
Wow. Lotta damage for 45k miles.
At 40k I pulled mine apart to remedy a trans issue (popping out of 4th gear) and found about 5mm broken off the end of the front cylinder's compression ring. Chunk was still in the ring groove.
I was going to mention that the bore is Nikasil- not likely to change a whole lot. At 100K+ (broken shift drum) I was still seeing cross-hatching and a perfectly round bore. I'm still running the stock pistons, with new rings.
Comparing the piston top to others that doesn't look so bad. Air-cooled motors usually have a much more dramatic layer of carbon. I would say it's about what I've seen on mine the last time I pulled it apart.
Hard to see what's going on with the cases in the pic. Was it actually leaking there?
The case has a valley eroded into it, probably from the cylinder/head not being torqued to spec. I'll try to take a better pic.
Pulled the trigger on a used engine. I should have it tomorrow (a friend is picking it up) but might not have time to install it for a week. MUST the ignition trigger be swapped? I don't have a socket that big! :eek1
Two solutions: I can send you one, when you're done send it back. Or, Tractor Supply sells a Chinese socket, 1 13/16 IIRC that fits like a 13mm-1/2" :)
If that is a 990 FI motor out of a Duke and you are putting it in a 950 then yes the Timing wheel HAS to be changed.
Motomedic, Thanks for the offer. The biggest thing i have is 1 1/2. Sears has it, I'll go by and grab it.