950SE Front Rim Crack. Stop, replace fix or continue

Discussion in 'Crazy-Awesome almost Dakar racers (950/990cc)' started by Hodgo, Sep 9, 2013.

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DID Dirt Star rim Crack Options

  1. Fix it Road Side (JBWeld) or Similar

  2. Replace it as soon as I can

  3. Ride on James & keep an eye on it.

Multiple votes are allowed.
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  1. Hodgo

    Hodgo TWIN Cylinder ADV

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    So Im changing out a front tyre here on the side of the road here in Tok Alaska midway through a six month North American jaunt and noticed a small crack in my front rim. Was wondering if any other punters have had similar issues with their DID dirt star rims and if so what did you do ? It doesnt look like its cracked all the way through.

    Fix it (JBWeld)
    Replace it
    Ride on james....

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    #1
  2. MymoJoe

    MymoJoe Ride Ride Ride

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    Don't stress Hodgo. See if you can find an alloy welding shop. They might not want to weld it... But I cracked front and rear rims on xr400's when racing. Got them welded raced another half a season then sold the bike like that..

    Jb weld won't last long but will work at a pinch.

    I would weld it though.

    I have been following your ride report.. I am so jealous



    #2
  3. srad600

    srad600 Been here awhile

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    I agree, a local welder is a good bet.:freaky
    #3
  4. Two Moto Kiwis

    Two Moto Kiwis Homeless Somewhere

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    Hodgo do you know CJ who lives in Tok??, I think he could help if not he will know where to go.
    #4
  5. unaweep

    unaweep Uses lotsa band-aids

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    I had the exact same type of crack on my SE and continued riding it for nearly 3 years before just replacing it a couple months ago. Granted, I wasn't riding every day, but I wasn't babying it either. In fact, I discovered the crack on the mid week break of the Kings of the West race in 2010.

    If you can't get someone to "work" on it, leave it alone and keep an eye on it each time you stop. Mine never got larger. I just replaced it because I felt like doing so. Good luck. :thumb
    #5
  6. Hodgo

    Hodgo TWIN Cylinder ADV

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    Nah mate don't know him but im a few miles north of Tok.

    #6
  7. Hodgo

    Hodgo TWIN Cylinder ADV

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    Thanks Joe, glad your enjoying north america through my eyes mate.

    Thanks Srad600 & unaweep & thanks Andi.

    Ive sort of answered my own question, given that im not racing or jumping, just plodding along i have opted for a quicksteel option that seems to have done the trick.

    Been mucking around here for a bit getting to this in the end.
    [​IMG]
    It is hard set in 15 minutes hard enough to file. So will set off again towards Fairbanks AK with my new chineese Surge.I front knobby for $95.00 CAN.

    Replacing the old Pirreli rallecross after 13,000 kms.
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    [​IMG]
    #7
  8. DSM8

    DSM8 Where fun goes to die....

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    I would weld it, that quicksteel does nothing to help ensure the integrity of the hoop. Weld in a worse case, replace is really the best option.

    You can buy the hoop and have it laced by a good shop if they know what they are doing.

    personally I would find a good tig person and go from there but you might have made that option more difficult since you put the epoxy on there.
    #8
  9. acejones

    acejones Long timer

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    I think all JB Weld is going to do is just keep you from seeing the crack. Find a welder.
    #9
  10. unaweep

    unaweep Uses lotsa band-aids

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    Hodgo- I'd say you got your money's worth out of that old front tire!:lol3

    The JB Weld likely won't do much, other than obscure the crack. However, if the crack begins to spread, you'll see it. In my experience, it's a non-issue. Check it every time you stop and my guess is you'll soon see it's not going to get worse absent a pretty hard and direct hit. Be careful and have fun! :freaky
    #10
  11. longwayround1

    longwayround1 Rfan

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    By your inside rim pic { crack is line straight & runs transverse across the rim } looks to me it let go on manufactures original weld joint.
    #11
  12. Defaultgateway

    Defaultgateway Adventurer

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    Another (conservative) alternative:

    Don't weld

    drill a 1/16 to 1/8 inch diameter hole at the crack tip through the rim thickness.

    I would not cover with JB because I would want to observe any further crack development

    As soon as I was in a position to do major repair, I would replace the rim with a new one.

    The purpose of drilling the hole is to reduce (redistribute or "spread out" ) the tensile stress at the crack root tip. This will prevent further lengthening of the crack.
    #12
  13. David37

    David37 Been here awhile

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    +3 get rid of JB Weld so you can keep an eye on the crack. When you can get the crack welded.
    #13
  14. L21

    L21 Been here awhile

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    You need a new rim sooner than later, My ktm 07 300 has the same crack at the weld. If and when it lets go you will wish you had replace it, JB weld is only a cosmetic fix.
    #14
  15. BigNastybrp

    BigNastybrp Big Nasty

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    I vote for similar/ weld it for now

    remove the JB, drill a 1/16 to 1/8 inch diameter hole at the crack tip through the rim thickness. as Defaultgateway said it will do nothing for you but hide the crack.

    I would have it welded up it will give you more time and should be $25-40 USD. now it will crack again it time it did on my xr650r rim but I didn't want to change my rim before Baja.

    order a rim and have it shipped to a place you can swap it or have it swapped out on your planned route.

    Or see it a cool ADV rider around you will swap with you and give them cash to fix the rim. someone has parked their bike for winter. ride safe B
    #15
  16. pdxmotorhead

    pdxmotorhead Long timer

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    Look for a welder at a larger General Aviation Airport (Lots of little planes not big heavies...) Especially watch for a airport that has lots of OLD planes. They are crack factories, Gaurontee there is a tig master near by..

    Other good place is a shop that repairs propellers. Typically they have a good tig guy to fix propeller cracks..

    +1 on the weld, being the factory fusion of the rim.

    +1 on a small hole at the end of the crack, only needs to be like a 1-2mm hole.

    If you end up out in in Oregon/Southern Washington there are a lot of places that do antique aircraft.

    Dave
    #16
  17. FakeName

    FakeName Wile E Coyote SuperGenius

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    Similar crack on my 525. Rode it for years. Had it welded. Rode it for mnths. Cracked again. Road it for another year.

    Then replaced the rim.


    I'd ride it.

    But take the grey bubblegum off in case the crack gets worse.
    #17
  18. Zuber

    Zuber Zoob

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    That rim is probably made from 7000 series aluminum. It was welded originally, but it is very difficult to do even with new. Now it has been anodized, corroded inside the crack and covered with a plastic/metal goo. It's going to take a lot of work to prep it for welding now.

    It may run for thousands of miles on the road, but if you have a big hit right at that point, it will fold up.

    A cheap fix would be to get a bent rim to replace it. Better to replace it. Will cost about $200 for the rim and at least 1 1/2 hours of labor to swap out.
    #18
  19. Hodgo

    Hodgo TWIN Cylinder ADV

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    Would have loved to have had the luxury of welding it but sadly didn't have that at the time.

    I have however traveled a considerable amount of miles since then, To Prudhoe Bay and back down through the guts of Canada and US and am now in LA waiting to ship my bike back to Oz.

    The fix held fine, but at speeds over the limit it can be felt. Yes the crack was exactly on the join.

    Will replace the rim when $$$ permits.
    #19