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Discussion in 'Crazy-Awesome almost Dakar racers (950/990cc)' started by BMacW650, Jul 13, 2013.
Interested as well!!
Let me know!!
Also interested in a full kit.
All the parts came in. I'm getting really close.
Currently I'm struggling on how to secure the headlight mask to the bracket. It's always been press fitted in on mine. No problem whatsoever, but I want to make it more professional for everyone else.
Still experimenting with that. You will see a hole on the left, I was trying to make it quick release so it would come off and allow easy adjustment of the lamps.
Another little snag is that if I solder the weather sealed fusebox to the wiring harness, it would be very tricky to route the entire thing to the battery. I want to keep the fuse down bottom behind the skip plate so they can be accessed quickly, like the other fuses. Otherwise I could just have the fuse behind the headlight... Working on disassemble the fusebox now so you just have to snap the terminal back after the routing.
A few pictures
Wiring harness, much tidier than before. 2 relays, low beam kill switch, low beam will stay on when high beam is turned on. Just plug the H4-3 connector to the stock headlight, and the 2 leads to battery.
Mounts directly to the stock headlight mask.
Reuse the stock rubber bushing, spacer, washer, screw
Adjustable directly from the front. (again, i need to figure a better way to secure the cover)
Couple quick snaps on the bike in pitch black. (please do not use them to judge the brightness)
I would like a full kit as well. Is this possible or are they all spoken for?
Fantastic job either way!
Let me know if a full kit is available.
AhHa... Neodimium (sp) magnets maybe.
Send my kit as is and I'll figure the mask secrurity... Got have some fun on the back of all your hard work.... before the aussie dollar goes below 50c US!
Is there a reason you havent used HID in the high beam?
What wattage HID did you use in the low beam?
The usual reason is that HIDs are not instant on from cold. If you are not a mad flasher then probably no big deal, especially if the lowbeam stays on with high beam. That's why some HIDs achieve high beam by shuttling the (always on) lamp in and out to change focus. Another reason might be that very limited space in that position on an adventure...some HIDs are a little longer because of the length of the bulb and the HV connector on the back.
I know you wanted he OPs reason....but I was bored....
I already have a solution. Should be ready soon.
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Everything roundz said. Unless you have a bi-xeon bulb ( Hi and low in one lamp), where the shutter will move the already full power hid back and forth into positions for Hi OR low, you can't effectively flash the high beam.
If your low beam with hid craps out on a long trip. You can always get out the h9 bulb from the Hi beam and carry on.
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If its possible you could use Hella high beam xenon and Hella bi-halogen like I did. Using H7 - d2s adapter in the bi-halogen module you can use same type of bulp in both lights. If the bulp in bi-halogen burns out and you cant find d2s xenon bulps you can just remove the adapter and use H7 halogen bulp.
Flashing is not a broblem with bi-halogen module and you can turn the high beam module on only when you really need it.
I've used the bi-xeon and bi-led unit (90mm), but they are a bit too big to fit in nicely. If you replace the screen and push it forward more like the TT setup, then you can fit in the bi-halogen,xeon unit. But my goal is to create a drop in replacement for the stock headlight, so that any aftermarket screen can be used. (I have a stock, and a moose shorty, I swap for summer use).
You don't really want to use bi-halogen lamp for HID conversion. Because the placement of the filament has to be more precise and will never the same for halogen vs hid. Single beam lamps are better suited for HID conversion.
Plus these single beam lamps look better and are cheaper.
I agree, bi-model are quite big and the d2s plug makes the situation even worse.
I haven't heard of any bad experiences with bi-halogen to xenon conversions. Both options cheap Chinese H7 xenon or philips/osram d2s with h7-d2s adapter seems to deliver good results. Sharp cutoff, even beam pattern and plenty of light.
According to my sources Hella bi-modules have larger lens than the single beam ones and thats why they should be better in every situation. Or maybe I'm just a victim of advertising and salesperson
I'm sure those classic modules are still 100 times better than the original and I would also prefer to keep the looks as close to original as possible.
You are correct. The 90mm lamps are of older design, the actual projector lens is smaller than 90mm,around it is the reflector to better spread out the beam. I like the look of the 90, otherwise the 60mm low beam projector is the best. But like I said, the space is really tight, making a few options available for this.
The bi-halogen/xeon/led setup uses a different mounting template than the 90mm single. So with my current setup, I will have a pretty easy upgrade path to those LED lens from JW speaker when that option becomes cheaper.
Would it have been possible to use the original lens as the light protector?
It doesnt look like the set up youve made protrudes too much to accomodate it apart from the face plate that could be moulded or ground differently.
I would like to purchase a Full Kit As well!!!! If you have a few left over?
The mask will have extra blocks on the back to serves as anchors. With a rubber grommets, it can be quickly pulled off to adjust the headlight lamps.
The finish will be matte. It can be clearly coated for a better finish.
So far, I have a list of people more than I have the plates for. But many of them will probably back out. I took the names down in the order of the request. I will contact everyone in order.
...................BmaC!! You the man! Invinous of your Jedi skills I am indeed yes.....