a barn fresh r50/5

Discussion in 'Airheads' started by bmwblake, Mar 26, 2012.

  1. bmwblake

    bmwblake upside down parker

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    about a month ago i picked up an r50/5 from a fairly local advrider. he'd picked it up as part of a package deal from a barn in florida. it came complete with bird droppings, some hay in the starter cavity, and some twine holding up the centerstand. i've been wanting a /5 for years and this one seemed like a good candidate to fix up and make what it something fun without having to worry about ruining a stock beauty.

    so far i've been tearing it down and cleaning a great deal. someone along the way painted the cases and i've bee stripping them. lucky for me it was a crap spray job. it looks like they got bored one day and lazily walked around and sprayed what was convenient.

    1 of 3 giving me a hand with the initial wash:
    [​IMG]


    initial night's work:
    [​IMG]

    one of the problem areas. i'll need a new bucket and switch:
    [​IMG]

    initial clean of the front cover:
    [​IMG]


    as it sits, the motor is out of the frame and the wiring is off the bike.
    if anyone has any tips on removing a stripped bolt on the compression ring for the clutch it would be most helpful. number 5 here:

    [​IMG]

    the early /5 bolts are flat heads. 5 loosened but the last is not budging. i loosened them 1 at a time and then retightened.
    #1
  2. bgoodsoil

    bgoodsoil Dare to be Stupid

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    Nice! I wouldn't give up on that bucket yet. I don't know if it's rusted out on the inside but it looks like it can be fixed up. Aren't they getting hard to come by?
    #2
  3. Bill Harris

    Bill Harris Confirmed Curmudgeon

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    Neat rescue. Does the engine turn? Carb slides free? Any more mouse-presents?

    The slotted clutch cover bolts are a PITA. Is the one that is stripped, stripped or is the screwdrive slot buggered up? You may be able to get an old-school thwack-it-with-a-hammer impact driver and loosen it, or you can easily drill the sucker out. Later /5 and /6's used "flat head allen wrench" screws, which are available. Not a major problem, persistence pays. :)
    #3
  4. wirewrkr

    wirewrkr the thread-killer

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    They are plentiful. But priced as if they weren't.
    #4
  5. rusty44

    rusty44 Been here awhile

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    shock it with a hammer and screw driver.

    Try to tighten it first,then loosen it.

    Heat it, then try to loosen it?

    Cut another slot in it with dremel....Al
    #5
  6. red bud

    red bud alky w/motorcycle problem

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    sweet
    #6
  7. Hawk Medicine

    Hawk Medicine Coyote's Brother

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    Well, here we go on a brand new project!

    I want a /5 too!
    #7
  8. bmwblake

    bmwblake upside down parker

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    the engine turns very nicely and the transmission shifts well. carbs need a rebuild but aren't too bad.

    the bucket is pretty rough. it has an extra hole drilled in it where someone added another idiot light at some point. it's also rather pitted in a lot of areas. if i can find a used one that isn't too crazy i'll go for it. otherwise, i'll use this one to practice patching holes in metal.

    to rusty: i removed the other 5 bolts with a manual impact driver. i've tried a lot of heat on it. it's to the point where it's close to needing another slot. i might take it to the local machine shop and let him work some magic. i'd rather not try to drill it out myself.

    to bill: the head of the bolt is stripped, the screwdriver slot. the bolt isn't spinning at all.
    #8
  9. ontic

    ontic

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    Something like that headlight bucket is a great candidate for electrolysis rust removal (google if you are not familiar with it). A few days bubbling away, with a few minutes scrubbing with a scourer every day or so, and it will strip most if not all of the paint off and get rid of the rust entirely and get you right back to salvageable metal so you can see what you've got to work with. It takes a little time, but so little actual effort and is perfectly suited to odd shaped painted/pitted/messy metal like that.
    Wire wheel the remains, then weld, if you so chose, or just give it a good scrub, and wash, dry, good prime (ASAP) and and start patching with bondo or the likes.

    Looking forward to watching this project :lurk
    #9
  10. elite-less

    elite-less Been here awhile

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    Looks like fun! :clap

    Rockypoint Cycle sells an upgraded ignition switch. I'm using one on my current project and it's vastly easier to install than the OEM switch plate.

    Also, that bucket should restore just fine with a bit of effort. You could always plug the hole with a polished stainless carriage bolt to make things simpler.

    :lurk
    #10
  11. cycleman2

    cycleman2 Been here awhile

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    If you have acess to a mig welder you could just weld a nut to the bolt head. The higher heat and the nut will usually let you remove the bolt easily.
    #11
  12. LoJack

    LoJack Long timer

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    I had a smilar problem with a couple clutch bolts. As a last resort I drilled out the bolt heads and wouldn't you know they spun out by hand after that.
    #12
  13. supershaft

    supershaft because I can

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    BMW's stroker! Will they outrun a R50/2? It's got to be close.
    #13
  14. bmwblake

    bmwblake upside down parker

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    this weekend a welded bolt on the end of the stripped bolt allowed me to remove the remaining stuck bolt on the clutch carrier. thanks to joe for welding the bolt to the nut. for some reason i was unable to join metal in this situation.
    i then marked all the parts and pulled them (yes i blocked the crank) to find a very nasty rear main seal area.

    the initial try to block the flywheel was with an old license plate. a friend that was hanging out had used this method. it didn't work for me. i ended up blocking it with a wrench, but this is a fun pic:

    [​IMG]

    mucky rear main seal:
    [​IMG]


    tomorrow i'll put a parts order in for a few things. while i'm waiting on those i'll start tearing the front end apart.
    #14
  15. Strongwater

    Strongwater Adventurer

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    Looking good blake! gonna be nice when you're done, at least yours came assembled! ;)

    Thanks for sharing.
    #15
  16. Boojum

    Boojum I Miss the PartyBoss

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    HiYa Blake,....... :wave :thumb Can't wait to see her all shined up and running.............
    #16
  17. crazydrummerdude

    crazydrummerdude Wacky Bongo Boy

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    #17
  18. bmwblake

    bmwblake upside down parker

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    in his defense, he did said that he doubled the license plate over when using it in this fashion.

    i haven't attempted to remove the oil pump cover yet. i wanted to clean the area first. i began that work last night and it's going to take a few more sessions of scrubbing before i can see metal all around.

    i hope i have an easier time than you did with the oil pump cover. i read your thread and enjoyed your use of oxy/acy torch to get the bolts out.

    i placed a parts order early today for some replacement bolts for the clutch carrier as well as parts for the front end. i doubt i'll get much done this weekend but will be back to scrubbing monday evening.


    #18
  19. rudolf35

    rudolf35 Warped & Twisted Mind

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    When you are ready to remove the oil pump cover screws use a impact driver, the manual hammer kind. When I took mine loose the loosened right up without killing the slots and any >#%^%#} words.
    :clap
    #19
  20. bmwblake

    bmwblake upside down parker

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    oil pump cover screws were no problem. got the oil pump seal and the rear main seal replaced friday night and reassembled the clutch. the new bolts for the clutch carrier were allen head types and much easier to deal with.

    [​IMG]

    in this pic things are back together. you can see joe's bloody thumb. i forget how that happened.

    [​IMG]


    next i tackled the oil pan gasket. you can see there was a fair amount of sludge in the pan. i cleaned the screen and have a new gasket that will be going on hopefully today.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
    #20