A Rectifier/Regulator Upgrade -- How-To

Discussion in 'Crazy-Awesome almost Dakar racers (950/990cc)' started by Uller, Oct 20, 2012.

  1. Uller

    Uller Done with this BS

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    deleted
    #1
  2. grinns

    grinns Semper Fi

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    This is on my list of things to do over the winter too. I haven't had any problems with the RR yet.
    #2
  3. cjracer

    cjracer AWD please!!

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    Nice job. :clap Very well done. Thank you.
    #3
  4. dogsslober

    dogsslober No neck tie, Ti neck

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    Just did this to my XRR and will do it to the SE sooner than later. Great photo how to:clap
    #4
  5. Head2Wind

    Head2Wind MotorcycleMayhem

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    I did a similar thing on my 690 E. The 950 project is going to get this upgrade as well.
    #5
  6. geometrician

    geometrician let's keep going...

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    I'm always removing extra wire & relays, poor connections and trying to tidy things up on all my motorcycles- the Achilles Heal of many bikes and MOST KTMs is the crap electrics...

    most of the electrics' relays, switches & ECUs are made by Nippon Denso but (I think) the wiring harnesses are made as an afterthought (I've seen the loom "mock up" jigs KTM uses). Worse even is KTM's choice of the fewest strands of copper possible with the least insulation on each wire... like the crap Harbor Freight sells.

    thanks for sharing the numerous pics, but I must ask-

    Why oh why didn't you move the reg/rect somewhere with more airflow? Seems that would be on top of the "to do" lists of Adventure riders with it buried behind bodywork & skidplate...
    #6
  7. Uller

    Uller Done with this BS

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    Thanks for the compliments all.

    Well, there are a few reasons for "why I didn't" :deal

    1. This style of R/R works better and runs cooler. Heat isn't as much of an issue for it.
    2. The mounting location on the Adventure isn't too concealed to restrict airflow around it. It is in front of the engine so heat from that doesn't affect it. My concern with the original location is more due the elements, i.e, mud, sand and water, mixed with it's unsealed connectors and solder joints.
    3. I decided that if I were to relocate the R/R, it wasn't the only thing I would be relocating. I would also move the battery, starter relay, and the rest of the electronics down there. The only place which has enough space for all that is the storage compartment and a) I use it for tools and b) would really like to wait until I get into fiberglass/carbon fiber fabrication to make something custom for this.
    4. Only other available locations are behind the air box and that area is extremely hot. Or, behind the headlight, but, I have a shortage of room with the HID Ballasts.
    5. I plan on getting a G-IT Skid Plate which has vents at the R/R location to aid in airflow.

    Is that enough? :D I guess, short point is, I looked and didn't see an alternative that didn't, itself, pose it's own issues.
    #7
  8. TcRulz

    TcRulz Been here awhile

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    Hi Uller, great write-up and great job:clap. Just want to ask a noob question.....did you just keep the stator wires in the same order when you put on the new plug and does it matter:ear. Cheers from Oz, Glenn.
    #8
  9. GZERO

    GZERO Fixing stuff around

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    Have you tried the bike?
    do you have a voltmeter?
    how does it works?
    thanks!
    nice install AND write up
    :clap
    #9
  10. Uller

    Uller Done with this BS

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    The order of the stator wires does not matter. I'll add it to the descripetion above. Thanks.
    #10
  11. Uller

    Uller Done with this BS

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    Yes, I have.
    Yes, I do.
    Very Well.
    You're welcome.
    Thanks! :D
    #11
  12. v8toilet

    v8toilet Nothing to see here.

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  13. LukasM

    LukasM Long timer

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    #13
  14. cat

    cat Long timer

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    Yes. Chinese crap, no-name - or "Hot Shot" (tells you it's Chinese) - and the unsealed stock connector.
    The standard - for good reason, tried and tested - for regulator rectifier upgrades is SHINDENGEN FH (MOSFET type). That is what you would find with google - SHINDENGEN FHxxx - for Triumph, Ducati, Honda, and so on.
    #14
  15. bloc

    bloc Been here awhile

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    Is your crank case breather hose just bent back temporarily while you do work on the bike, or do you have something else going on back there?

    Nice work.. will definitely be looking at doing this in the future.
    #15
  16. MortimerSickle

    MortimerSickle Semi-Adventurer

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    And, that area is not cool. Here is a pic of a multimeter that I had been carrying in the bottom of the tool bin.

    [​IMG]
    #16
  17. AdvGa

    AdvGa Long timer

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    The OEM Voltage Regulator/Shunt type gets to about 200-350 degrees F (from what I've read). Will burn you if you touch it.

    Whereas my Mosfet Shindengen VR is just Warm (Appx 100 Degrees F) to the touch but does not get HOT.
    #17
  18. tahoeacr

    tahoeacr Long timer

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    It stays that cool? I'm all over it. Good write up. My stocker runs 165 located here. The other day it went to 17 volts:huh for a minute.

    [​IMG]
    #18
  19. AdvGa

    AdvGa Long timer

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    Yep, it is that much of a difference
    ...and remember your past post about your OEM VR reaching the 245 degree level range.
    #19
  20. Uller

    Uller Done with this BS

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    Yes and no. It doesn't permanently look like that but, I do have it routed to just above my chain with a K&N Breather Element attached to it after the one-way valve.
    #20