A Rectifier/Regulator Upgrade -- How-To

Discussion in 'Crazy-Awesome almost Dakar racers (950/990cc)' started by Uller, Oct 20, 2012.

  1. Uller

    Uller Long timer

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    After having one of the OEM type Rectifier/Regulators (R/R) go out on my 690 and having it both screw up a trip and a perfectly good (brand new) battery; I decided to upgrade my R/R on the 950 to a Shindengen FHO20AA, as sold by Roadstercycle, just like I had previously done on my 690.

    I have over 6,000 mi. now with this type of R/R and wiring setup and a Ballistic Battery 8 cell on my 690. It is working well.

    I plan to run a 12 cell Ballistic on my 950.

    I got the "FH020AA Mosfet R/R only" at the bottom of the page.
    http://roadstercycle.com/Shindengen%20FH012AA%20Regulator%20upgrade%20kit.htm

    I don't really like how the factory wiring harness is constructed on the KTM and take every opportunity to modify it. (I'll show why later) So, this install might not be for you. If so, AdvGa has a great How-To Here: http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=820432&highlight=mosfet

    I decided to wire mine differently than the typical kit from Roadstercycle allows and purchased connectors and a fuse from another vendor. I use Eastern Beaver for my electrical connectors.

    Furukawa QLW .250" Connectors for FH012, FH011, FH010, FH009 http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Products/Connectors/R_R_Connectors/r_r_connectors.html

    and a fuseholder (Metri-Pack 630 30A Fuseholder for ATF/ATO Type Full Size Blade Fuses)<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:eek:ffice:eek:ffice" /><o:p></o:p>
    http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Products/Fuseholders/fuseholders.html

    If you look at the wiring system of the 950/990 the charge current goes from the Stator through an unsealed connector which gets dirty, corroded and has failed on many people over the years.


    [​IMG]

    To the OEM R/R and then throught another unsealed connector into a hand made joining of wires in a soldered connection (that isn't really sealed at all), to the Starter Relay through a sealed connector, to your battery.


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    This is a closeup of the inside of the soldered connection. It is corroding. All charge current runs through this....
    [​IMG]

    I am simplifying the wiring system and running directly from my R/R to the battery. I took a lot of pictures. (We like pictures, Right?)

    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]

    I cut off the connector. You don't need it anymore.

    [​IMG]

    What you can see here is that you have two positive wires from the connector to the group of wires which run up to the ignition switch and other locations up top. There is no issue removing the charging current from the R/R from this joint. Everything is still connected as it should through the Starter Relay

    [​IMG]

    To disassemble the connector, remove this plastic clip with a very small flat blade screwdriver. Then look at the end of the connector. There are little grooves in it that allow you to push a tab on the terminal and remove it cleanly from the connector to disassemble it.

    [​IMG]
    Cut the two leads to the connector from the joint.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
    This is what is coming from above now. Make sure you remember which wires go where....
    [​IMG]
    Another closeup of the corrosion in the factory junction.
    [​IMG]
    Measuring the wires prior to cutting to length.
    [​IMG]
    Here is my stand for soldering.
    [​IMG]
    Measure twice (or three times) and cut once, Right?
    [​IMG]
    Ready for soldering. The gloves are to not get oils from my hand in the wires. That doesn't help things.
    [​IMG]
    All soldered, with waterproof shrinkwrap ready to go.
    [​IMG]
    Here is the connector to the starter relay all finished with more shrinkwrap.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
    Next is the Fuse Block. The way this fuse holder works is to send the wire through and then crimp on the connector. I solder the joints after crimped for a solid connection.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    I didn't take a lot of pictures of the positive side. Basically, one side of this gets a ring terminal and connects directly to the battery. The other side runs into the Furukawa Connector to the R/R and is crimped and soldered. You can see it in pics later.
    Here again is the unsealed connector from the stator. Cut it off. We are installing the R/R in the original location and don't even need to add wire. A very clean install if you ask me.
    [​IMG]
    I pulled down the wire sheath to measure the wires and cut the sheath. Because we are mounting in the oringinal location we don't need to extend the wires from the stator and can make a clean, sealed connection.
    [​IMG]
    Everything cut, with the sealing rings on.
    [​IMG]
    I crimped the terminals onto the wires and soldered the ends. Then inserted into the Furkawa connector. The order of these wires in the connector isn't important. They each do the same thing.
    Here it is inserted into the R/R.
    [​IMG]
    The R/R outlet wires fitted to the R/R on original mounting location. I used 12 Ga. wire and put regular shrinkwrap over it to aid in abrasion resistance. The R/R unit has a red and green dot on it to differentiate positive from negative. The positive wire to red and negative to green. So, the fused section from above is inserted into the red side of the black connector below and the wire to the negative terminal of the battery goes to the green side.
    [​IMG]
    Here are my fuse holders simply attached to the top of the battery box. I can easily pull them out of the zip tie if needed and securely reinstall. The top one is the R/R. Bottom L is my Lighting circuit and Bottom R is the Cigarrette plug/Battery pigtale.
    [​IMG]
    Here is the Starter Relay side. It is cleaner. No ground connection. No open connectors. Less wires.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
    I did come into a little issue while installing the fuel tank. The fuel shutoff and hose interfere with the connector to the battery (the black one). I like where it is installed and don't want to change it. So I found a simple solution of rotating the R/R on the same mount.
    [​IMG]
    Remove the captured nut and drill a hole of the appropriate size in this approx. location. I did contemplate remounting the captured nut down there but the bracket narrows not allowing for sufficient material.
    [​IMG]
    I just reuse the same nut without the holder. It is the outside one and can easily be accessed.
    [​IMG]
    All finished.
    [​IMG]
    Please ask if I wasn't clear on something.
    #1
  2. grinns

    grinns Semper Fi

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    This is on my list of things to do over the winter too. I haven't had any problems with the RR yet.
    #2
  3. cjracer

    cjracer AWD please!!

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    Nice job. :clap Very well done. Thank you.
    #3
  4. dogsslober

    dogsslober No neck tie, Ti neck

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    Just did this to my XRR and will do it to the SE sooner than later. Great photo how to:clap
    #4
  5. Head2Wind

    Head2Wind MotorcycleMayhem

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    I did a similar thing on my 690 E. The 950 project is going to get this upgrade as well.
    #5
  6. geometrician

    geometrician let's keep going...

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    I'm always removing extra wire & relays, poor connections and trying to tidy things up on all my motorcycles- the Achilles Heal of many bikes and MOST KTMs is the crap electrics...

    most of the electrics' relays, switches & ECUs are made by Nippon Denso but (I think) the wiring harnesses are made as an afterthought (I've seen the loom "mock up" jigs KTM uses). Worse even is KTM's choice of the fewest strands of copper possible with the least insulation on each wire... like the crap Harbor Freight sells.

    thanks for sharing the numerous pics, but I must ask-

    Why oh why didn't you move the reg/rect somewhere with more airflow? Seems that would be on top of the "to do" lists of Adventure riders with it buried behind bodywork & skidplate...
    #6
  7. Uller

    Uller Long timer

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    Thanks for the compliments all.

    Well, there are a few reasons for "why I didn't" :deal

    1. This style of R/R works better and runs cooler. Heat isn't as much of an issue for it.
    2. The mounting location on the Adventure isn't too concealed to restrict airflow around it. It is in front of the engine so heat from that doesn't affect it. My concern with the original location is more due the elements, i.e, mud, sand and water, mixed with it's unsealed connectors and solder joints.
    3. I decided that if I were to relocate the R/R, it wasn't the only thing I would be relocating. I would also move the battery, starter relay, and the rest of the electronics down there. The only place which has enough space for all that is the storage compartment and a) I use it for tools and b) would really like to wait until I get into fiberglass/carbon fiber fabrication to make something custom for this.
    4. Only other available locations are behind the air box and that area is extremely hot. Or, behind the headlight, but, I have a shortage of room with the HID Ballasts.
    5. I plan on getting a G-IT Skid Plate which has vents at the R/R location to aid in airflow.

    Is that enough? :D I guess, short point is, I looked and didn't see an alternative that didn't, itself, pose it's own issues.
    #7
  8. TcRulz

    TcRulz Been here awhile

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    Hi Uller, great write-up and great job:clap. Just want to ask a noob question.....did you just keep the stator wires in the same order when you put on the new plug and does it matter:ear. Cheers from Oz, Glenn.
    #8
  9. GZERO

    GZERO Fixing stuff around

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    Have you tried the bike?
    do you have a voltmeter?
    how does it works?
    thanks!
    nice install AND write up
    :clap
    #9
  10. Uller

    Uller Long timer

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    The order of the stator wires does not matter. I'll add it to the descripetion above. Thanks.
    #10
  11. Uller

    Uller Long timer

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    Yes, I have.
    Yes, I do.
    Very Well.
    You're welcome.
    Thanks! :D
    #11
  12. v8toilet

    v8toilet Nothing to see here.

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  13. LukasM

    LukasM Long timer

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    #13
  14. cat

    cat Long timer

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    Yes. Chinese crap, no-name - or "Hot Shot" (tells you it's Chinese) - and the unsealed stock connector.
    The standard - for good reason, tried and tested - for regulator rectifier upgrades is SHINDENGEN FH (MOSFET type). That is what you would find with google - SHINDENGEN FHxxx - for Triumph, Ducati, Honda, and so on.
    #14
  15. bloc

    bloc Been here awhile

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    Is your crank case breather hose just bent back temporarily while you do work on the bike, or do you have something else going on back there?

    Nice work.. will definitely be looking at doing this in the future.
    #15
  16. MortimerSickle

    MortimerSickle Semi-Adventurer

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    And, that area is not cool. Here is a pic of a multimeter that I had been carrying in the bottom of the tool bin.

    [​IMG]
    #16
  17. AdvGa

    AdvGa Long timer

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    The OEM Voltage Regulator/Shunt type gets to about 200-350 degrees F (from what I've read). Will burn you if you touch it.

    Whereas my Mosfet Shindengen VR is just Warm (Appx 100 Degrees F) to the touch but does not get HOT.
    #17
  18. tahoeacr

    tahoeacr Long timer

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    It stays that cool? I'm all over it. Good write up. My stocker runs 165 located here. The other day it went to 17 volts:huh for a minute.

    [​IMG]
    #18
  19. AdvGa

    AdvGa Long timer

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    Yep, it is that much of a difference
    ...and remember your past post about your OEM VR reaching the 245 degree level range.
    #19
  20. Uller

    Uller Long timer

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    Yes and no. It doesn't permanently look like that but, I do have it routed to just above my chain with a K&N Breather Element attached to it after the one-way valve.
    #20