A ride to Pamir - August 2017

Discussion in 'Ride Reports - Epic Rides' started by macias1989, Sep 23, 2017.

  1. macias1989

    macias1989 Adventurer

    Joined:
    Sep 27, 2009
    Oddometer:
    55
    Location:
    Poland
    Hello!
    I would like to share with you my last trip to Pamir mountains, which took place in August this year.
    I’d planned this trip for a long time. Last year I tried to do it alone. I wanted to ride from Poland to Mongolia through Belarus, Russia, Kazakhstan, Uzbekistan,Tajikistan and Kyrgyzstan. I got to Astrachan, where I turned back home. I found out that being alone was not what made me happy. I had also some minor issues with the motorcycle and that’s why I made decision like this. I don’t regret, because I saved up a lot of money and bought playstation, which made my life better :D

    This year I wanted to have a company for the trip. I found two Polish guys on a motorcycle forum. They wanted to go to Uzbekistan, Tajikistan and Kyrgyzstan. They ride similar motorbikes to mine. Their planned route was more or less the same as mine. We had one chat on skype. Decision was quick and all preparation started.

    So here we are. Me - Maciek (inside) on mighty Transalp 650 and my fellows Maciek (right) on GS650 and Tomek (left) on almost new Yamaha XTZ660 Tenere.
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    I got all visas for all of us. I’d obtained all of them before, so this year it was really straight forward. I was only nervous about my relation with the guys…

    My Honda Transalp was well prepared for the last year. I changed lot of parts in engine, chassis, drive train and add some accesories. I believed my bike was in good condition, therefore I started preparation a week before the departure. Suddenly I found out that the rear shock absorber probably wouldn’t last the whole trip. Fortunately I got the used one two days before the start. It wasn’t perfect, but seemed to be better than the old one. I changed the oil and filters. Packed up the panniers during the evening before. Then drunk some goodby wine with my family and I was ready to go!

    You can find some teaser photos on my facebook page https://www.facebook.com/MaciekRides/, where I posted something on the way. I also try to post different things here and there.

    Trailer movie:


    Cheers!
    #1
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  2. macias1989

    macias1989 Adventurer

    Joined:
    Sep 27, 2009
    Oddometer:
    55
    Location:
    Poland
    Day 1. 5.08.2017

    I woke up pretty early. I got to ride 500km to Polish/Ukrainian border, where I was going to meet the guys. I should have been there at 2PM, so I got to depart quite early. Due to my late packing, I was late almost an hour on the start. But! I’ve got all the passports, so I was sure they wouldn’t go without me :)

    The ride was smooth. The traffic was small. I hoped I would be on time. After 250km traffic increased, I slowed down a bit and started to hear some strange noise. I stopped at the fuel station to check a chain slack. I touched it with a finger and it was damn hot and tensioned! I readjusted it, but the noise remained. Did I damaged the output shaft bearing? I got damn nervous. Could it last for another 13000km? I decided to give it a try. If the noise became louder, I turned back home.

    I met guys in Chełm. I wasn’t even late much.
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    Eventually together we rode towards the Polish/Ukrainian border. The queue there was enormous, but some line splitting, zig zagging and we were at the front. Polish border was quick. Ukrainian was a bit slower. Due to laziness of Ukrainian border guards. It took us only 40min to enter Ukraine. Then we rode 60km more to Kovel, where we spent the night.
    We talked, drank, laughed and got to know each other. So far, so good. Guys were funny and I expected our trip to be a nice one!
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    Trip of the day. I covered 592km
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    #2
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  3. macias1989

    macias1989 Adventurer

    Joined:
    Sep 27, 2009
    Oddometer:
    55
    Location:
    Poland
    Day 2. 6.08.2017

    The night was hard. There was no A/C in the hotel. It was hot and falling asleep was almost impossible.
    We rode toward Kiev, where we decided to stay and had a quick walk in the city center. The road was good and much better than we’d expected. We visited Maidan square, where demonstration and riot took place in 2014.
    Kiev seemed to be more European city than we thought. People style, shops, prices, cars all were European. But the girls were there… wow!
    We were going to meet the real Ukraine the following day.

    Maidan photos:
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    Kiev:
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    Track of the day: It was 446 km of smooth ride.
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    #3
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  4. Dessert Storm

    Dessert Storm Dances With Drunks

    Joined:
    Jun 2, 2005
    Oddometer:
    1,026
    Location:
    Off route, recalculating
    Awesome! In.
    #4
  5. macias1989

    macias1989 Adventurer

    Joined:
    Sep 27, 2009
    Oddometer:
    55
    Location:
    Poland
    Day 3. 7.08.2017

    We started the third day in the rain. Right after the Kiev rain stopped and we continued on the road to Charkow. It was a smooth, two lane road. Then we turned left to get to border crossing near Sumy. We heard this one was small and the queues were small too. The road towards Sumy sometimes was bad. Covered with some potholes. We stopped for a diner in a small village. The prices there were amazing. It was possible to eat a 2 dishes dinner for $1,5! For example a tea costed around $0,15. People were nice, but not as opened as people we were going to meet in the next countries.

    We planned to camp near the border. But the weather wasn’t so good and the hotels prices were so low (less than $6 per person), so decision was easy.


    Track 393km
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    #5
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  6. macias1989

    macias1989 Adventurer

    Joined:
    Sep 27, 2009
    Oddometer:
    55
    Location:
    Poland
    Day 4. 8.08.2017

    We woke up early in the morning to attack border crossing. There was no one ahead of us, so we hoped it would be a fast action. On the Ukrainian side the first window was closed. After few minutes, a very nice, old women come out and opened the window. Sho took our passports with a smile and informed us that we needed to fill some forms, which were in Ukrainian and she would help us with it. I wanted to check the forms and tried to grab it, but she put her hand on the papers and told: ‘no, no. I’ll fill it up for you, so you can go’. What a nice lady - I thought - So give me back my passport and I go! But she didn’t want to. Then she used a translator and showed us some hard to understand sentence in English. It told that filling up the papers demanded some work from her and she didn’t has to do it. So it was clear she wanted some money. So we gave her 50UAH ($1,9) for all of us. Immediately her smile disappeared and she said it wasn’t enough! We gave her 110UAH and lay we didn’t have more. She accepted a bribe and without a single world gave the passports back. The Russian border took some time. We had to fill up the temporary import documents 2 times, because of the mistakes. A big queue grown behind us. Suddenly one guard came and told that a Russian car was waiting in the line. He ordered to move sides all the cars and make a space for Russians! It took us 3hours to enter Russia.

    We wanted just to ride across Russia as fast as we could, so there were no stop for sightseeing. We spend a night in a hotel, due to a bad weather. The prices were higher than Ukrainian, but still it was cheaper than in Poland. The roads were very good, but straight and boring.

    Small Kafe in the first city,which looked like shops in Poland 25years ago
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    Small nap on the way
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    Fancy diner:
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    Maybe there is a good time to present our still clean motorcycles :D
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    Track 583km:
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    #6
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  7. macias1989

    macias1989 Adventurer

    Joined:
    Sep 27, 2009
    Oddometer:
    55
    Location:
    Poland
    Day 5. 9.08.2017

    We rode a route the same as I rode a year before. The temperature rose after Wolgograd to 36’C and landscapes changed from fields and forests to steppe.
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    Wolga river:
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    The ride was good, quick and still boring. We arrived to Astrachan in the evening and went to hotel, which was booked via the internet. It appeared that our reservation was changed from the cheapest room to the most expensive one. But it was pretty late and we hadn’t any choice but to stay there. Hotel was some kind of brothel and our cheap room was rented for just an hour, but unfortunately we came at the same time as the other ‘guests’. So I had problems with hotel again in Astrachan. I didn’t write a lot about Russia, because I did it last year. You can read about it, whatch some photos and a movie on my website here: http://maciekrides.com/en/blog/2016/08/09/trip-to-astrakhan-2016/

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    The next day we were going to Kazakhstan and adventure would begin!


    Track 797km:
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    #7
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  8. macias1989

    macias1989 Adventurer

    Joined:
    Sep 27, 2009
    Oddometer:
    55
    Location:
    Poland
    Day 6. 10.08.2017

    We wanted to be as early as possible on RUS/KAZ border crossing, so we wake up at 5.30AM. The road to border was going through delta of Volga river. The landscape has changed, it was green and trees appeared. It seemed to be a good place for camping!
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    We crossed several bridges and one floating bridge (crossing costed 50RUB/per.).

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    The border crossing was fast. We filled up only migration cards. Immediately after second border we were surrounded by lot of Kazakh people offering money exchange and motorcycle insurance. I wanted to exchange $20, but the minimal amount they accepted was $100! I resigned of course. Guys went to some small building to buy insurance. They informed me it would cost $40/3 motorbikes. I stayed outside to look after the bikes. Kazakh behave differently from European. They were watching, touching, trying to turn on the GPS, pressing clutch, brake levers, buttons… just everything. I was glad they didn’t open our bags. Their questions about the motorbikes was always the same: what is the fuel consumption, how fast can it go, how much does it cost in dollars. After a while guys informed me that I need to sign the insurance papers. When I went there, it turned out that $40 was the cost of one insurance! We were arguing with the locals, because they’d said different price before and then other Kazakhs came and surrounded us. We wanted to resign and find another place, but a few hundreds meter ahead was parked a police car. We were afraid they would inform police we didn’t have proper insurance and the fine would be bigger than $40/person. Further discussion was also hard and pointless because there were more than 10 Kazakhs around us listening to our case. To avoid any problems we paid the money, took the documents and rode away to Atyrau.

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    We’d heard rumors that the road to Atyrau was in fatal condition for 300km. We were prepared for really slow ride and enormous potholes. The road appeared to be really bad. Some holes were as wide as the road. Some of them were deep for dozens of centimeters. It was sometimes hard to avoid a hole. If I wanted to pass the big one I was hitting the smaller one, but very often the smaller appeared to be deeper. The ride was harsh. Riding on gravel along the road was better idea. Surprisingly the traffic there was also relatively high. That made it even harder, because the cars and lorries were slaloming between holes, there were lot of dust in the air behind them and overtaking was also risky. There were also gravel parts. Eventually the bad road was only for 30km. Then the asphalt got better. It was possible to ride 80km/h and sometimes a pothole appeared. Some of them were big and dangerous.

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    When the bad road ended it looked mostly like that:
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    The villages in Kazakhstan were shocking. There were a lot of mud huts in the first one we passed. The poverty was obvious there. The landscape was still a boring steppe, but sometimes some camels were standing next to the road!
    We got to Atyrau, where we filled up the tanks and bought some food in a supermarket (we paid with cards everywhere). Caviar and cognac were extremely cheap and became our favourite products in Kazakhstan :)
    Then we rode towards Bejneu. The road was perfect. Just before the sunset we turned into the steppe, rode a few hundreds meters and put up the tents. The night was excellent! Warm, quiet and cheap! Only a herd of horses galloped next to our camp in the night, which was quite exciting!

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    Track 476km
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    #8
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  9. macias1989

    macias1989 Adventurer

    Joined:
    Sep 27, 2009
    Oddometer:
    55
    Location:
    Poland
    Day 7. 11.08.2017

    In the morning I noticed that my pannier rack was loose. I lost one of the bolts. After quick repair we departed to Bejneu.

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    The road was in very good condition. It led through steppe, the traffic was low and it was really hard not to fall asleep. We were riding all the time 100km/h. Suddenly in front of us appeared a police car. They turned the sirens on and stopped us. Police officers didn’t even checked our documents. They said we had been speeding and one of us had to sit inside the car. We’d heard rumours that fines in Kazakhstan could be very high, but we weren’t going very fast - speed limit was 90. Tomek got out from the car and they went away. He came to us and said we were riding 101km/h and tolerant limit was 100. The formal fine was 500€/3 motorcycles. They offered us a bribe which was 300€/3 and he managed to negotiate it to 200€. I was very upset. It was a serious fine for my student budget. In bad moods we continued to Bejneu. It was the last city with fuel station before Uzbekistan. We all heard about petrol problems in Uzbekistan, so we filled up the tanks and extra jerry cans, which gave us around 500-600km range. It was hard to find a petrol station, but locals helped us and one guy drove with us through all the city to show us where it was.

    The road between Bejneu and the border was fatal. In my opinion it was worse than the one to Atyrau. The surface was rough gravel with holes filled with sand. There were small pots of old asphalt, which made sharp and unpleasant bumps on the road. The bad quality road was 30-40km long. We found another fuel station 25km before the border, where we filled up the tanks again. The last 20km of the road was a good gravel. It looked like they was building a new road there and it was maybe prepared for the asphalt?
    The queue before the border was enormous! There were Uzbeck cars packed up with bags, old bikes, lot of metal parts. We passed all the line. There were a lot of rubbish there. Plastic bottles and bags covered all the road. I’d never seen something like these before.

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    The last petrol before the border:
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    The border crossing went pretty fast. All the guards let us pass the lines of locals. Uzbek one demanded filing custom documents. We needed to give information about money and our electronic devices and its value. The forms were in Russian, but there was one officer, who spoke a good English and helped us with it. There were also a templates on the wall. Frankly speaking it was easier than Russian border. They also ordered us to go to the bank and make a xero copy of our documents. The copies costed $1 for each person. The copy of passport and motorcycle passport were demanded.

    Just after the border we were surrounded by people offering money to exchange. We changed some dollars and euros. The exchange rates at the border were 4800soms/USdollar nad 5000som/euro. The rate, which locals used to calculate the price when we bought something,was 6000soms/dollar.

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    It got pretty late and we had only an hour of daytime, so we wanted to spend a night in a hotel next to the border. Unfortunately the price was too high for our budgets. They wanted $100/person! We rode to the nearest village. On the way there was a police post with stop sign and barrier. They just wrote down some information from our passports and let us go. Just after the police stop there was a small building. It was some kind of restaurant and a lady there offered a place to sleep for $1/person! There was just one room with carpets on the floor, where we could sleep. It was possible to buy some food and tea there as well. We asked some locals on the other side of the road if they had any place, where we could lock our motorcycles. They offered a steel garage, where we put the bikes. Then some locals started to visiting the restaurant to eat and drink. They were sitting next to our sleeping mats. I was afraid that more people were going to sleep there.

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    At midnight all the guest were gone and we could eventually go to sleep. At 3.00AM some guys came and turned the light on for just a few seconds. I was watching them from my sleeping bag. Most of they went out, but one left. He was just standing and watching towards us. He turned the light on again and immediately turned it off. Then I noticed that he was leaning towards Tomek and reaching for something next to him. I jumped out from the sleeping bag and wanted to grab this bastard. Tomek got up at the same time. The thief got scared, he dropped Tomek’s mobile phone, which he managed to take and ran out the hotel. We followed him, but he escaped behind the building. I was trying to be as cocky as I could, but I am a short sighted and I didn’t had my glasses and I wasn’t able to recognize anybody :) It was good I didn’t run on the wall instead of the door.

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    Our adrenaline was high and further sleep was hard. But after 3.30AM it became quite there. We turned all outside light off, so the place seemed to be closed and we were able to sleep until 6.30AM, when the alarm rung.

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    Track 445km
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    #9
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  10. macias1989

    macias1989 Adventurer

    Joined:
    Sep 27, 2009
    Oddometer:
    55
    Location:
    Poland
    Day 8 12.08.2017
    We found our motorbikes, where we'd left them in the evening :)
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    We started ride pretty early to avoid hot temperatures. The road during first 40-50km wasn’t very good. There were some potholes, but it was possible to keep a decent speed.
    Ring across Uzbekistan was very boring. Road was straight, traffic was low. We didn’t even see many camels. We stopped a few times to ask for petrol, but any restaurant and any fuel station didn’t have any. After 300km we found a car service, where we could buy it. The price was $1/liter and we had first refueling from plastic bottles.
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    Fortunately the weather was gentle to us. It was slighty over 30'C, nervertheless stops for water were frequent and necessary.
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    The asphalt quality was very often much worse in cities than between them. In Nukus I hit on big hole and motorcycle lost power. Fortunately I had the same issue before and diagnosis was fast. A handgrip got loose on a rollgaz. I out there some glue and we could continue the ride.

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    We rode from Nukus tu Khiva via Beruniy and the road was really good. We heard that there is a shorter road through Gurlan, but the road was worse.

    The new road was constructed on our way. They were building a second lane next to the old one, which sometimes was renovated as well. The traffic was crazy. Everybody was choosing the better lane and in result cars were going on the left lane in both directions as well on the right lane! Riding in the cities is pretty tricky. Drivers didn’t always obey all the rules. Red light sometimes had no power at all. They didn’t use indicators while changing lanes too. They also kept small distances when overtaking us, which was scary sometimes.

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    Stop for a dinner with typical tables:
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    In Beruniy we tried to find a fuel station with petrol, but we wasn’t successful. We found it again in a car service in Urgench.

    In the evening we got to Khiva. We stopped in Alibeck hotel next to the old town. The place was very comfortable and breakfast was included. The breakfast was enormous and tasty! The next day we were going to spend in Khiva. We needed some rest and wanted to see the city.

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    Track, we rode 618km:
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    #10
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  11. macias1989

    macias1989 Adventurer

    Joined:
    Sep 27, 2009
    Oddometer:
    55
    Location:
    Poland
    Day 9 13.08.2017

    The rest day. We had a long walk in Chiva early in the morning to avoid all the tourists and to see the real live there.
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    First surprise was where Uzbeks could sleep. Outside the house near the sidewalk was the most popular place. Sleeping in the middle of loud market wasn’t a problem too.
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    Notice a sleeping man on the left side:
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    The old town is surrounded by a massive wall. Inside the city are plenty of madrasas and mosques. All buildings are elaborately covered with mosaics of ceramic tiles, which is impressive and different than all European buildings I’d seen.

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    In the evening we rode to buy some fuel in a black market (6000som/l). Our hotel’s owner showed us the place. He was riding as my passenger and all the time was screaming to me: “can you ride fast? I like fast!”

    We rested enough and were ready for the further ride next day.
    #11
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  12. macarron

    macarron Adventurer

    Joined:
    Mar 14, 2009
    Oddometer:
    61
    Location:
    Spain
    Waiting for the next installment ;-)
    #12
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  13. P@vlos.B

    P@vlos.B Stuck in an Island

    Joined:
    Jun 8, 2011
    Oddometer:
    86
    Location:
    Somewhere in the Mediterranean
    WOW! The Stans! My favorite kind of RR!!
    #13
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  14. b4thenite

    b4thenite Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Oct 14, 2008
    Oddometer:
    330
    Location:
    Korea Town, Los Angeles,
    OH YEAH!!!
    #14
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  15. macias1989

    macias1989 Adventurer

    Joined:
    Sep 27, 2009
    Oddometer:
    55
    Location:
    Poland
    Day 10 14.08.2017

    In the morning we had the fuel tanks and jerry cans filled up and were ready for the next 450km through a desert and steppe. We rode almost all the time on a two lane road with good surface. It was very, very boring. We were going along the Uzbek/Turken border and sometimes some lakes appeared on the horizon, which were situated on the other side of it.

    We stopped in small village to have a break in some shadow and a lot of children came to us. One of them was bothering us to give him a pen, then sunglasses and finally to give him some money. I only let him to try on my helmet and we left them and rode to Bukhara.

    Bukhara is different city than Khiva. The roads near the city center were very dark and narrow. On one of those street we had a hotel. We were able to park motorbikes inside and we found a place for them in a dining room.
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    The monument buildings were spreaded in the city center and were bigger than the one in Chiva, but its style was pretty the same.

    When we walk away from the center we could notice a real live in Bukhara. There were plenty of children, playing in front of their houses, without smartphones in their hands. Lots of ladies in colorful, traditional dresses and old male Uzbeks wearing typical hats. The poverty was obvious there, but people seemed to be happy.
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    In the evening we ordered a petrol form owner of the hotel and he brought it almost to our room and it was the cheapest fuel in Uzbekistan so far (4800som/l)!

    For the supper I ate some bread stuffed with onion, which were made on the street and some gastric problems started in Bukhara. Basically all 3 of us had some smaller or bigger stomach issues in Uzbekistan.

    Track 452km
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    #15
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  16. macias1989

    macias1989 Adventurer

    Joined:
    Sep 27, 2009
    Oddometer:
    55
    Location:
    Poland
    Day 11 15.08.2017

    The ride was pretty short. We rode only 270km to Samarkand, which took us 4h 30min. The road was decent. Eventually some mountains appeared on the horizon :clap We checked in a hotel, which had a temporary black out, so we immediately went out to visit the biggest monuments in Uzbekistan. Our first stop was Registan, a big square surrounded by 3 madrasahs. Unfortunately there was some dance festival and it was closed for tourists.
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    Then we visited the biggest mosque in Uzbekistan - Bibi Khanym mosque. Its size was really astonishing, but technical condition was seriously poor.
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    Next to the mosque was a city market - Siyob Bazaar, filled up with fruits and nuts. Then we went for a walk to the old islamic cemetery Shah-i-Zinda, where some mausoleums were set up in IX century.
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    Polish tourists in Uzbekistan:
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    Nice butts in Samarkand :jack
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    In Samarkand we found a fuel station, which offered a petrol! But the queue was enormous and we had to shop on a black market again. We took a taxi and asked driver to show us the place with the fuel. We drove few kilometers to small shop near the road. It was filled up with jerry cans. We took 30liters, which we wanted to take to hotel. There was a problem, because they didn’t want to give us the bottles! They made us an offer to leave a mobile phone as a deposit for the bottles :) Finally we had to pay another 20000soms for bottles. Fortunately it was the last petrol we bought in Uzbekistan, because the next day we were going to enter Tajikistan! :)

    Fuel store:
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    He had hundreds of liters of petrol hidden in small and dark room:
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    Track 274km:
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    #16
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  17. macias1989

    macias1989 Adventurer

    Joined:
    Sep 27, 2009
    Oddometer:
    55
    Location:
    Poland
    Day 12 16.08.2017

    In the morning we found out that a border crossing in Bekobod was probably closed for foreigners. This was the one we’d wanted to cross. So we had to take a longer route and enter Tajikistan in Oibek 45km north from Bekobod. We road on a 2 lane road almost all the distance to Oibek. There were no queue. Only one, old Russian car before us. We came next to the Uzbek border gate and waited few minutes for the guard. It was obvious they were not in a hurry. Then they allowed us to enter the crossing and a real fun started. Firstly, we were ordered to push out motorbikes backwards and forwards and turning them around to put them in front of the camera, which was trying to take photos of the number plates. After several trials they gave up and allowed us to proceed. Passport control was pretty quick and without any problems. Then we waited for the custom officer to check our luggage, who was really busy with the old guy in Wolga in front of us. They ordered him to unload the boot and go with all the stuff inside the building, where they wanted to xray it. He’d got plenty of cartoons and bags. We were helping him with carrying all the things inside, while custom officers let dogs to sniff round the car and unfortunately dogs sit down next to the spare wheel. In a moment they catch the Russian and overwhelmed him. The second officer started screaming on us to run and hide in the most remote building. They evacuated all of the buildings and we were closed there for just a minute or two. Some guards with rifles started running outside. Suddenly all of the officers started to smile and let us go back to the motorbikes. Eventually they let the russian to drive away and our time came. We were ordered to take off all the panniers, tankbags and rollbags from the motorcycle and carry it for xray. The guy who was operating the machine didn’t even look at the monitor, when our luggages were scanned. Then we put everything on and rode to the last gate. The last officer, who checked my passport noticed that the Uzbek stamps (from enter as well) were on my visa from the year before and the current one was clean. The guys rode to Tajik border and I had to turn around and go to the passport control again. The queue there got big, but when the officer noticed me he let me skip all the people. I showed him two visas, he looked at them for a while. Then he closed the window and went somewhere upstairs. After several minutes he came down without my passport and said ‘you need to wait’. I was afraid it would take another hour to solve the problem. After another several minutes an English speaking officer came down with my passport. He started asking ordinary questions about our trip. He canceled stamps on the old visa, put one on the new one and I could leave Uzbekistan. It took me almost 3h to do Uzbek border crossing. When I got to The Tajik border guys were in the middle on the procedure and told me that I need to pay $10. I didn’t know why, but they’d already paid, so I had really no other choice. Tajik side was quite fast. They gave us some import documents and it took time to prepare them and involved 3 officers, but everything was clear and fast. After a while we were in Tajikistan!

    Right after the border we could fill up the tanks from the pump not bottle, what a comfort! We rode towards Iskander Kul. The road at the beginning was decent, but when we got to road from Khujand to Dushanbe it got really good. I was riding there as a third person and we were passing a policeman. Tomek and Maciek managed to pass him, but I was stopped. He checked the documents and started asking standard questions. It was strange, because after a while he had no more questions and I had nothing to say anymore, but he didn’t tell I could go. We were standing for a while in a silence and I told I needed to carry on and rode away. We were stopped by police again that day. He also asked some question and then was looking at us in silence.
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    On the way we had a problem with Maciek’s BWM, which was overheating. We checked the radiator and fluid level, but everything seemed ok. So we slowed down a bit and when we entered mountains it cooled down and problem never appeared again. Maybe it was due to bad fuel quality...

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    The road was really astonishing! We started riding in mountains along a river. The landscapes were breathtaking and it was only a beginning! We managed to get to Iskander Kul Lake. To get there we rode across some small villages, where we passed hordes of children. All of them were screaming and waving hands to us. I felt like some kind of celebrity there :)
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    The last few kilometers led through a gravel mountain road. Suddenly a beautiful blue water appeared in the valley.
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    The area around Iskander Kul is a national park and we had to pay an entry fee ($3/motorcycle). We stayed in a hotel for $10/person. It included a hot shower, but no toilet. When we got to the hotel we were invited by a group of Tajik men, who played traditional songs and danced for us. We joined them for dancing as well :)
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    Tack and distance 539km
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    #17
    Twinmike, BLucare, Parcero and 7 others like this.
  18. aleckan

    aleckan Adventurer

    Joined:
    Jan 31, 2012
    Oddometer:
    61
    Really exciting trip...Thank you for sharing and inspiring...:beer
    #18
    macias1989 likes this.
  19. macias1989

    macias1989 Adventurer

    Joined:
    Sep 27, 2009
    Oddometer:
    55
    Location:
    Poland
    Day 13. 17.08.2017

    We started the day with a walk around the lake and to the waterfall down the river, which flew out of Iskander Kul.
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    Then we started a ride towards Dushanbe. We could go via Anzob tunnel or Anzob pass (3372m). We chose the mountain road. Riding was hard, because the road was officially closed. The beginning was on asphalt, but then more gravel appeared. There were a lot of rocks on the surface. I was happy I mounted aluminium bash plate :) We rode on 1st gear the last kilometers due to the rocks and slope. It took us 3 hours to get to the top, including all stops for photos, but it was worth it. The ride along the wild river was damn exciting. I was also happy, because my carburetor was doing fine on high altitudes. I highly recommend to go there!

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    Then we continued to Dushanbe on the main road, which was very good. Dushanbe looked similar to big european cities. We exchanged some money in a bank, bought fuel and rode on M41 towards Pamir! We stopped in a good looking hotel and we hoped for the internet. Unfortunately it wasn’t available, but we ate a tasty dinner, drank some booze and fall asleep with high hopes for the following days on famous M41 and Pamir mountains!


    Track distance 223km
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    #19
    Bigbob1, KTMInduro, NaMi and 10 others like this.
  20. MeinMotorrad

    MeinMotorrad Long timer

    Joined:
    Sep 21, 2012
    Oddometer:
    4,059
    Location:
    UK for now.
    Fantastic landscape - seriously jealous.
    #20
    macias1989 likes this.