From Bangkok I took a flight into Kolkata. Last year I'd taken the same flight and been able to get a ticket for $50, this year I paid double. I was on a tight schedule to get to Manali at the foothills of the Himalayas and jump on the road to Ladahk. From what I'd heard the passes through Ladahk to Leh can only be crossed in a few brief weeks of summer. So far I'd timed it perfect, landing in the sweltering heat of early July, just as the monsoons hit!. But I still needed to get to Manali in the state of Himachal Pradesh, 1,500Km away on the other side of the county. And I still needed to buy a bike. Since this was now my 3rd time in Kolkata I was more comfortable finding my way around and heading over to a trusted travel agent to buy my train ticket to Delhi. Then settle in at the tourists gathering point on Sudder St, The Blue Sky Cafe. There I met Honey, an interesting Filipino girl who had travelled extensively. She took interest in my train trip to Delhi and immediately announced she would come with me. Humm, ok cute girl why not. The next day we boarded our train for Delhi riding 2nd class sleeper for the 18 hour trip. Not a bad time for an Indian train that was crossing this vast country. The train trundled along and Honey and I had long deep talks the way travelers do, opening our souls and spilling all the deep secrets. Our other carriage mates were a group of Muslims from Myanmar on a holiday and sort of pilgrimage. They were a fun and happy bunch, pulling out a mat and laying it across one bed they did their prays one after another. i asked Honey how they knew which way mecca was and one of the pulled out a compass! We all shared food and made small talk and then slept the erratic sleep, lulled and shook by a train at night moving across a country that never sleeps. Delhi was hot. The train stops at New Delhi Station close to the tourist section of Paharganj. A area of dirt roads and crumbling buildings, beggars, filth, heat and sweat. This can't be a capital city? Cows roam the streets, eating plastic bags and rotting vegetables. It seemed that Honey and I differed in our budgets for rooms. We'd agreed to get a room together, but she wanted cheap, really cheap. I like cheap too, but when its 42degrees I like AC too. After the train journey we were both tired. Honey found a place for some ridiculous price. So ridiculous I got my own room next to hers. I wasn't in a mood to be sweating and tired and trying to share a place with someone that had started to bug me. Earlier when boarding the train I'd offered to help her carry her massive suitcase onto the train, now it seemed it was my job to carry the damn thing at every stair and difficult spot. Karol Bargh is a area in Delhi I'd heard about from everyone to buy a bike. After I got settled in my room and taken 5 showers, I ventured out to find this motorcycle hot spot, Hell the whole town was a hot spot. It was crazy hot and the only reprieve was riding on the air conditioned metro train. I took the train to the Karol Bargh station expecting to find bike shops everywhere. Nothing! and no one knew what I was talking about. motorcycles sieb? no sir nothing here. Eventually I found someone that told me to just walk up this road and Id run into the shops. i walked for miles and found nothing and eventually, frustrated, returned back to my squalid hotel. Honey had been sleeping and I knocked on her door as we had early said we would get together and discuss our next plan. She about bit my head off telling me that she was use to men making the decisions and why hadn't I bought a ticket to Manali yet??? WTF! Were we dating? i don't remember any conversations about that, I certainly don't remember any sex, which if i remember correctly usually comes with dating. Its certainly usually the precursor to the shouting and arguments. I put it down to the heat which in our windowless rooms was unbearable.