A short trip around the Black Sea

Discussion in 'Ride Reports - Epic Rides' started by rtwdoug, Jul 3, 2012.

  1. nanno

    nanno Been here awhile

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    You're that close already, you could just pop round and give me a hand in the shed tomorrow. :D

    (Some old lathework and bike-building always helps...)

    Cheers,
    Greg
    #81
  2. eldomike

    eldomike Who Cares

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    Get well and get your ass back here.....there's work to do! :D
    #82
  3. rtwdoug

    rtwdoug prominent underachiever

    Joined:
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    Back in Bulgaria after a short 6 day trip, which included 5 countries, 1600km, visiting friends in Serbia, a bike run in Macedonia, a 2 day biker party in Bulgaria, some crappy Albanian roads, crazy traffic in Kosovo, and a slight wiring mishap on the bike :)
    I feel much better now.

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    now back to our regularly scheduled program..........
    #83
  4. rtwdoug

    rtwdoug prominent underachiever

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    <!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:WordDocument> <w:View>Normal</w:View> <w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom> <w:punctuationKerning/> <w:ValidateAgainstSchemas/> <w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>false</w:SaveIfXMLInvalid> <w:IgnoreMixedContent>false</w:IgnoreMixedContent> <w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>false</w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText> <w:Compatibility> <w:BreakWrappedTables/> <w:SnapToGridInCell/> <w:WrapTextWithPunct/> <w:UseAsianBreakRules/> <w:DontGrowAutofit/> </w:Compatibility> <w:BrowserLevel>MicrosoftInternetExplorer4</w:BrowserLevel> </w:WordDocument> </xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:LatentStyles DefLockedState="false" LatentStyleCount="156"> </w:LatentStyles> </xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 10]> <style> /* Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-name:"Table Normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; mso-style-noshow:yes; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; mso-para-margin:0in; mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:10.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-ansi-language:#0400; mso-fareast-language:#0400; mso-bidi-language:#0400;} </style> <![endif]--> There was some road work as we got close to the border, but it wasn’t too bad. Right before we got there, there was a new church being built next to the road. They were actually cutting the marble for it right on site, from big chunks cut from the mountain behind

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    Off in the distance, you can see the Geo border
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    We passed there pretty fast, nice people, no problems. As this border hasn’t been open long for foreigners, we were sort of a novelty. The it was about 5km to the Russian border, on a crappy road thru tunnels that had nice big holes full of water, no lights, mo markings. Fun!
    When we got close, traffic was backed up a good ways. We stopped, but after a few minutes, I decided not to wait, so we went to the front of the line, & ducked in line at the barricade. A Russian guard yelled at me, Poly translated it as ‘does the order have no meaning for you?’
    Basically, he was bitching at me for cutting the line. Luckily, they let us in anyhow. This border took a bit longer. They don’t like my passport, as its well used, & has had extra pages added twice. Then they didn’t like my bike papers, or my license plate, as it has no numbers. Finally, they let us in.


    Traffic waiting at the border
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    #84
  5. rtwdoug

    rtwdoug prominent underachiever

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    We went up the road to Vladikavkas & got a room. When we got to town, I found an ATM to get some rubles. While I was there, these 2 guys stopped. They were some sort of secret police, well, the one was, the other was Spesnost, Russian special forces. Nice guys, just curious about us. We asked them about problems in the region, as we are in North Ossetia now, but they said it was ok, a slight problem to the east thru Gushetia, and not to stop while we are there.

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    That night at the hotel, there was a wedding. Lots of people were there, and about 9pm we heard a ruckus outside. We looked down from the balcony, & a big fight broke out, about 15 guys & a couple girls. A couple of the guys got the shit beat out of them, it went on for 15 minutes or so. No shots were fired, no cops ever showed up. Poly was looking over the balcony, it was bothering her, so I told her not to look. Her reply, ‘Im afraid I’ll miss something!’
    I filmed most of it, but it was pretty dark, & didn’t come out too good.

    We had been looking at the map, & decided that instead of heading east to the Caspian & back along the same road (we were warned to stay on the main road only) that we would go to see Mt Elbrus, which is the highest point in the Caucus mountains, and if its in Europe (they are still arguing this point) that it’s the highest in Europe.
    Theres a road that goes 100km to the base, then you have to backtrack, but my friend Dmitry from Moscow said it was worth seeing.
    I felt better about this, because although I don’t mind going into sketchy areas, I don’t feel comfortable taking Poly there.
    So the next morning we headed to Elbrus.
    #85
  6. rtwdoug

    rtwdoug prominent underachiever

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    <!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:WordDocument> <w:View>Normal</w:View> <w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom> <w:punctuationKerning/> <w:ValidateAgainstSchemas/> <w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>false</w:SaveIfXMLInvalid> <w:IgnoreMixedContent>false</w:IgnoreMixedContent> <w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>false</w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText> <w:Compatibility> <w:BreakWrappedTables/> <w:SnapToGridInCell/> <w:WrapTextWithPunct/> <w:UseAsianBreakRules/> <w:DontGrowAutofit/> </w:Compatibility> <w:BrowserLevel>MicrosoftInternetExplorer4</w:BrowserLevel> </w:WordDocument> </xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:LatentStyles DefLockedState="false" LatentStyleCount="156"> </w:LatentStyles> </xml><![endif]--><!--[if !mso]><object classid="clsid:38481807-CA0E-42D2-BF39-B33AF135CC4D" id=ieooui></object> <style> st1\:*{behavior:url(#ieooui) } </style> <![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 10]> <style> /* Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-name:"Table Normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; mso-style-noshow:yes; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; mso-para-margin:0in; mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:10.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-ansi-language:#0400; mso-fareast-language:#0400; mso-bidi-language:#0400;} </style> <![endif]--> It was a hot ride, but it got cooler as we got higher. There was a military checkpoint about ½ way, they logged us into a book, & looked at our docs. The area by the mountain is very close to the new republic od south ossetia, formerly part of Georgia, and so they are keeping tabs on the area. There are also Chechnyen terrorists hiding in the mountains, there was a wall full of pictures of wanted guys in the police station. We got close to the end of the road & agreed it was worth the trip. Its so beautiful here! The road ends, & theres some motels, a ski lift, and some old babushkas selling souvenirs. Poly had been wanting a sheepskin for her seat, so we bought one here, it was only 20 bucks, and done really nice. There was also a bearskin for 200, but I wasn’t sure how that would work at the borders, but I was really tempted to buy it.

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    They also had some snazzy hats. Poly wanted one, but wouldn’t fit under her helmet
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    I thought I’d be great, for an abba reunion tour.
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    #86
  7. rtwdoug

    rtwdoug prominent underachiever

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    Then got on the lift. Theres a small dirt track that the jeeps use, I was tempted to try it, but it was really steep & rocky. Maybe next time….

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    The good lift ends, then its just ski chairs. Old soviet ski chairs. They were not confidence inspiring
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    The safety catch was just a ¼ inch indent
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    The scenery was amazing!
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    #87
  8. rtwdoug

    rtwdoug prominent underachiever

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    At the top, was a base camp for climbers. These old tanks are now motel rooms. Behind, you can see the twin peaks of Elbrus

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    Nice cafe
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    Fun job, toting water up a frozen slope
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    Then heading back down, it was a bit chilly up here
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    Back on the road again! Poly found some wild rasberries
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    #88
  9. ullukk

    ullukk Been here awhile

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    Hull, East Yorkshire
    One word, Brilliant!!
    #89
  10. zandesiro

    zandesiro In rust we trust....

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    Polygyros, Greece...
    :thumb Cool ride report!!
    #90
  11. olebiker

    olebiker Old buzzard bait

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    As alway well done Doug.
    #91
  12. SavannahCapt

    SavannahCapt Long timer

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    :clap:clap:clap
    #92
  13. Gas Hog

    Gas Hog Two Wheel Fanatic

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    Great work on the pics...That white fur hat would have been a keeper!:webers
    Gary
    #93
  14. SavannahCapt

    SavannahCapt Long timer

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    I doubt that too many folks in Alabama can claim that they own one of those. :D
    #94
  15. bamarider

    bamarider Adventure n00b

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    N. Alabama
    Great report!!! Enjoyed the visit last week, and look forward to the rest of the report.

    Best of luck on the Cannonball Run...

    Philip
    #95
  16. bmwhacker

    bmwhacker Still on 3 wheels

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    nice little R/R Doug. Always enjoy your photos and narrative.....Thanks

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    My "Polly" on a tram....:D

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    #96
  17. goathead

    goathead grunt and push

    Joined:
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    Carbondale Colorado
    Well I do enjoy your travels, thanks for sharing.
    #97
  18. rtwdoug

    rtwdoug prominent underachiever

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    Its mostly a hot boring ride, but luckily, theres Russian car drivers to keep things interesting.
    I’ve noticed the 2 main types of drivers that strive to keep the roads interesting.
    There are the big fancy Mercedes drivers, which think the roads were made just for them, and damn anyone who gets in their way.
    Then there are the old crappy Lada drivers, who feel like they have to drive as fast as their shitty cars will go, just to show the Mercedes drivers that they can drive fast also.
    Toss into the mix is the truck drivers, who either drive at 130kph, or 30 kph, depending on how they feel.
    Russian roads can always be interesting!

    Oh, and as we are close to Georgia, the cows still wander all over the place

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    At a gas station, trying to get the last drops out of a tanker truck
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    I bought a ram mount for my spot tracker, & it decided to break after getting gas. Luckily I was going slow, & caught it. I dunno what happened, the holder just snapped. 2 days later, the ball mount just fell apart also. I’ve never had problems with Ram stuff before, I saved the pieces, maybe they will send me another?

    We had stopped at a roadside café, and 2 bikes from Ukraine pulled up. One of the guys walked over & said Hi Doug! Seems we have a mutual friend in Khakov.

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    #98
  19. rtwdoug

    rtwdoug prominent underachiever

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    The GPS wants to send us an extra 250km to get to the coast, but on the map, I see a shortcut, so we took that. It was a pretty crappy road, but not so bad, until we were going up a mountain, & the road turned to dirt. It was really dusty also, with lots of rocks & trucks crawling up it.
    My favorite!

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    Poly is not to pleased with my shortcut

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    We met this guy from Austria who was riding a solar powered bike around the black sea
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    We got to the coast road, & headed south to Sochi. The road itself was ok, but very twisty, & SO much traffic! It took us a few hours to get to the edge of sochi, & we decided to get a room. So we stopped in a town that was FULL of people, many hotels, the beach, etc. Poly went to look for a room while I stayed with the bikes. A guy on a Tenere like Poly’s stopped, & I was talking to him, he said it was so crowded because this was the busy season, plus, they were having all the floods near Krasnodar, and many people from there had come here also. The hotels seemed to be all full there, so we were going to go on down the road, but Andrei said we should just come to his house. We weren’t having luck with a hotel, so we agreed. He lived about 6km inland, up the valley. I wasn’t sure what to expect, if he lived in an old flat, or a small house or what. Not to worry tho, it turned out to be a big fancy place, log house, guest house, swimming pool, etc.
    We could have stayed here a few days! : )
    He is a house builder, & said this one cost over a million usd to build. Crazy. The neighbors lived in a shack & had a crappy old lada. The contrasts here always amaze me.
    We had a nice time with him & his wife, & took off the next morning.

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    Even early in the morning the traffic was horrible. Why they gave the winter Olympics to a town with only one small windy road to reach it, I don’t understand. I think most people will just fly in.

    We took a pic at the Sochi sign, then headed back north

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    We got to Novorossysk right before dark, & I called Kristof, who it turned out, was already in Sevastopol, where we were heading for the big bike party. He called some guys in the Night Wolves MC, who met us & took us to an apartment the club has, & set us up for the night.

    I felt at home with this in the living room

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    The next morning, we headed towards Ukraine
    #99
  20. Noone

    Noone Long timer

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    Sitting at a Cross Roads lookin' for a sign
    What bike number?