Great read! Thailand is high up on my 'to do' list, should have already been there years ago. In retrospect, would you recommend the rental company in Bangkok? Interesting to read this. It seems we'd been in the same area at night on the way to the Yasmina kasbah, only that we had good weather and a gps map with most of the tracks. Much easier, once you've found a track to follow. Get well soon!