Thanks for posting, I have wanted to ride this area for a long time but several attempts to locate routes have not been very successful, I usually get replies listing the tourist areas. We like back roads and no time table. Finally gave up and went to Alaska last year. Your report gives me a lot of information about the area and I think I will try again to list out some routes you have described to try. Hope to to east next summer, living in the Texas Panhandle we always seem to travel west and northwest.