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Discussion in 'New Zealand' started by Padmei, Aug 13, 2010.
Beat me to it.
Been a good weekend in the shed & only have a few roaches left...
Last week I called into my local towbar/ ute deck workshop & got one of the boys to make up a rough & ready sidestand bracket. It's amazing how quickly things can be made when all the right gear is right there already set up.
Using gerards tie rod nut & spare stock side stand (with a bend in the middle) we sorted out a bracket that bolts to the front engine mount & has a half tube cradling the frame to take the weight when employed. I used a spring from berlinas side-stand to keep it at either position.
Here's version one
Unfortunately it sat too far back & interfered with the gear change
So I ground the mounting plate off & got the new welder out. I did a bit of measuring & cut a longer piece. This moves the bracket forward & up & the weight sits right on the bend of the frame.
A good dousing with black etch primer hides some of my bad welding & it's ready for fitting. I have to say my new welder with the co2 bottle gives a much better weld (tho yo may not believe it looking at my welds)
It works really well & is bloody handy having one to use again- the old centre stand push can get tiresome.
I took it for a ride around the Moutere, up the West bank of the Mot river & thru Sunday creek road & it didn't get in the way. I can feel it when changing up but it moves beneath my foot when I slip the corner of my foot in against the gear change lever. I may look at modifying the lever as I seem to twist my foot & hook it with the edge of my boot to change up.
Those with eagle eyes would have picked up the ripped pushrod tube rubber in one of the photos. For those that haven't here's a few more shots.
One of them had a slight rip in it during installation however I wasn't too worried about it at the time. The other ones have happened since I've been riding it. I wonder if it is happened when torquing down the heads. SS has mentioned on one thread about maybe dodgy seals but I'm not sure. I won't be doing anything about them this year unless they start pissing out oil. if they start weeping i'll just tie a rag to them.
Another mod i got around to doing was installing on of Pete's breather plugs into the speedo drive socket. Instead of pushing a piece of tube over the nozzle I just cut it off & araldited an old pushie gear cable into the centre. I wanted to keep the pipe pretty thin. the other end is fed up into the frame spine.
I was looking at the final drive breather too. i like the idea of hardwaregirls banjo fitting & tube setup however was wondering how it would work if I siliconed the plastic cap & oring onto the finaldrive then drilled the breather hole of the plastic cap & araldited the same kind of gear cable tube into it & ran that along & up the frame. It would be a cheap easy solution & I could also use a silver tube to camouflage it against the swingarm. I will try it as it will only cost me a plastic cap if it doesn't work.
Got the shimming plate today. Want me to send it down?
yeah just hang on to it for now. i'm going to see if my other mech mate can help me get the bearings out & then get the stuff checked out& order the bearings, gasket etc. I will prob price the bearings over here. I tke it the big open input bearing is the expensive BMW one.
It will be interesting to see if I'm circlipped too.
It's one thing taking all this stuff out however you need the experienced eye to tell you if it's stuffed or not. I'll run it past my local bike mech & see what he thinks. If all i need to do is replace bearings & have the gearbox shimmed then I don't think it should cost too much.
Did I just jinx myself???
I would image that the specialist bearings would be the input & output bearings (but that's speculation re the input bearing). The output bearing has a flat machined face which works better with the circlip.
That's the assumption I'm working on for Gus's box. But probably not how it'll run.
Want to take a small wager on the outcome?
I went down to my mech mate with the case. They were very hesitant to heat the alloy case too much as they reckon once it gets too hot they just turn into a blob. As I'd not read any warnings of that on the internet I told them I'd take it on the chin if that happened.
My mate held the gas torch & got the case fricking hot. I wriggled & rattled & the shafts still weren't coming out. I ended up putting the output shaft nut on & used a slidehammer to work it out. Not an easy removal at all- phew.
Here's the shafts out
Annnd to really bore yas here's some shots of the bearings for ID purposes.
EDIT: copy of bearing sizes from steptoe on gsersuk.
Bearing sizes = for a 5 speed gearbox .
Output shaft - input end 6403 c3 , output end 6304 c3
Layshaft - input end 6304 c3 , output end 6304 c3 ( sealed bearing)
Input shaft - input end NU204E , output end 6304 c3 .
TM6403 C3 open (NTN)
This looks like the end that is requiring a circlip.
6304 NSE closed (nachi)
6304 NSE (Nachi)
Middle one in above pic.
656? CS (FAG)
6304 open (Nachi)
I got a price for the bearings from a local shop - should be around $140ish+ GST but may be more.
From nosing around it looks pretty good in there. The dogs seem ok & the gears look like no damage. The case where the bearings sit look fairly untouched.
I have a couple of queries. These bearing covers were in the receptacles & I was wondering why they are used. Also i was pondering why some closed bearings are there with some open bearings. I will consult with the oracle about such matters.
all easy to get berrings... the only diffrents is the C3... most offf the shelf berrings are C4
C3 is the race clearance 3 thou... C4 is 4 thou... If you clean ALL the oil/grease out the berring
will rattle...A C3 rattles less than a C4...
NU 204 roller is for heat exspantion long ways in the shaft... just about all bigger
electric motors use a NU on one end ...
XX06 = 30mm bore
XX05 = 25mm bore
XX04 = 20mm bore
XX03 = 17mm bore
6XXX = Deep groove ball race..
X 2/3/4XX berring OD.. 3 diffrent sizes.. ( 4 is not so common.)
Thats how it all works...
PS..FAG make some of the best berrings money can buy...
That's awesome pete cheers.
The bearing covers are called oil baffles I found out. Why are they used? I suspect to divert oil into the middle of the shaft?
The prices I got were from the SKF shop down the port - not the front store.
Aren't they the same?
I'm not sure. i drove around the corner to a small engineering supplies that wasn't as flash as the front store- kinda looked like an old takeaways shop / dairy. I got a few onion rings & half a scoop of chips as well.
Good progress, at this point you should give Maxheadroom ( Nick) a PM ( also on KB) as he should be able to give you some tips. there are improvments that can be made on the selectors.
He used to work for SKF and has an alternative for the BMW bearings, I think it involves the seal diameter. He's a top bloke and will help you out if he can/has time.
He's an advocate of not using a gasket but 3bond.
Does the fact it has some japanese bearings mean its been done previously?
Thanks for the advice Wolty. I reckon it has been done before due to the jap bearings. Bob & Rob from ukgsers reckon it looks ok from the pics.
It may only be one bearing that is whining but for the realatively low cost of replacing them all it makes sense.
As a matter of interest is there any way of knowing which bearing is faulty? just spin it & feel roughness? there doesn't seem to have any obvious damage- still it would ony take a small amount of wrongness to cause that whining at high revs.
Just found this in the gearbox thread.
The Paras can yank the output shaft to such an extent that the engine side bearing moves on the shaft creating preload on the output bearing. The bearings are not designed to run with this preload so overheat and fail. This was where the fuss about the circlip came from. I have seen two gearboxes with the circlip fitted where the circlips simply popped off and the shaft has still moved. I don't know but I suspect that the angle of the driveshaft has become so steep that the universal joint has been compromised forcing the shock through the output shaft - just a thought though. A lot of the aftermarket shocks are taller than the original unit making the UJ angle very steep.
I found this today. I need to get a separate side stand, because I don't like those crash bars all that much.
I think that one is broadly similar to the Boxer Supplies one. Someone has modified where the spring pivots from so that it doesn't auto retract, then fitted a lockout switch so they don't ride off with it down.
Never done that myself of course....
Nice coloured frame.
Cool looking but post up some pics of how it sits when retracted. As you would have seen with mine it is right in the action zone when changing gear. If the stand is bent out it would be sitting in a place to rip a bloody gash theu your leg if the bike was on the centre stand. That one looks like it would run past the footpeg a bit.
I would have liked to see that wire run inside the frame out of sight.
I reckon the old crash bars are a waste of time. Only took a few lite pushes to bend mine into the engine.
never fallen off while doing it
here is the link to the rest of the bike.
Yes, that's what it does and it will smash the fins. Mine are coming off, as soon as a friend of mine brings me the stand he's been talking about.
Ok so as bike modifiers that dude & I are at different ends of the spectrum. I have to admit that bike is so welll done that I even like the colour of the frame. Pah bet it doesn't even have loud tappets!!